Scotts build thread

Scott Rowland

Supporter
Well, the car has finally got here. I have already done a few hours of accessing and trying to decided my direction. Toby definately made some nice parts for the car and it does look alot better in person than in pics. Trying to finish up another car today so I can finally get the body off of the SLC and start getting my hands dirty!
Seeing so many pics of the interior, I didn't realize it was actually that small. I'm not a big guy and I felt like I need to practice yoga abit to perfect my entry and exit. Haha. I will be making them open abit more than they do now and came up with a leverage system that will create the first few inches of travel slow, mid fast, and finish slow. Havn't decided on linear actuactors for the doors yet or not.
I am pretty much a perfectionist, so the main goal for me is to make the car look like a mass produced vehicle. What I mean by that is every part finished inside and out with fit and finish being that of a high end car. Right now the front and rear clams are not a one person operation to open. I may be making an alum frame to make them more rigid and a one person, two finger operation with pressure shocks mounted to frame. Light weight isn't my biggest concern (but still a concern),fit finish, and all the cover panels and assembly that would be done by a high end vehicle manufacturer. I know I just set myself up for about 2000 hours of work, but what else do I have to do. :laugh:

I will also try my hand at alum smelting for one off interior parts and trims. Should be an interesting exercise!
I don't know why, but even a couple weeks ago I came up with the build moto of "jewelery". No, won't be covering in swarovski diamonds! I am not sure how it will play out, but I won't bore with the details at this point and just cover it while doing it. I can't seem to get gold anodizing out of my mind with it, so unless I change my mind, alot of parts will be finished in that and polished alum. Also, many body mods planned.

Goal is to first go through everything and get running asap so I can possibly enjoy it a little this summer. After that, the real work begins!

Pics as they come.
 

Hyder

Supporter
Scott, congrats....
Im about 3h north of you in Bellevue, WA.
I Have an SLC build in progress as well. Would love to shoot down and take a peek at yours sometime. Good luck with the new car!
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
Thanks. Head down anytime, I will keep the beer cold! Haha. I grew up in Bellevue/Redmond area also. Been here so long I could be called a native though.
 
Congratulations! A majority of my first week was spent standing around looking at the car and ordering parts. Now I gotta quit ordering and start working! You have a much different starting point though.....lucky dog.

Nice couch!

A.J.
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
Congratulations! A majority of my first week was spent standing around looking at the car and ordering parts. Now I gotta quit ordering and start working! You have a much different starting point though.....lucky dog.

Nice couch!

A.J.
I will be going all the way back down to the point you are at though. Lol. Seems mine was still in mock up faze with nearly all bolts just finger tight or less. So, to be sure, everything needs to come back apart. In actuality, you may be further ahead. :)
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
Got it cleaned up and the front and rear clams off. Got some good ideas going. Can't wait to get going.













the headers are very nice.



 
You're WAY ahead of me!! :stunned:

I don't even have the most basic things done like attaching the front & rear clams, the front splitter.....the important thing is do SOMETHING every day.

A.J.
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
My something today is, drink beer and stare at it. Haha.

I have soooo many ideas going I don't know the first direction to point the sawzall!

I will be redesigning the turbo/intercooler locations. Saving headers, but making new collector to mount turbo's higher (to aid in drainback) and making new manifold with itb's enclosed in alum box with a thick acrylic top to look in and see the horns. Water to air intercoolers welded off the sides of the manifold (ei. SLR AMG) which will means I can nearly mount turbos right off of the manifold. Dual pass type system for the heat exchangers. That will get me back a ton of room and a more effiecient system and compatible with my hp goal.
That really is my first project as nearly everything else balances around that and the room it will create. Order those parts early next week. Much more ducting will be added to body and pull engine air from under door area in the sills.
For some reason I also can't get the idea out of my head of having the exhaust come out of the area between the rear tires. Something about flames shooting up through the rear deck sounds great. ;) I will be siameseing the wg dump and main exhaust at the body line to create the look of 4 tubes cut at an extreme angle to make them all oval. If it is stupid loud, I will have room to make an echo chamber type muffler to quite it down.
Now, on to the idea of an updated lemans look to the front end......................................and the list goes on, haha.

One reason you might be further ahead, is because I may be changing so many things it would almost be better to start at the point you are at! Atleast for the next year or 2, I won't be able to say "I have nothing to do!"
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
Well, the last few days have been mostly tearing things apart and seeing the additional parts needed and deciding which way to go.
Next monday and tuesday fed ex, usps, and ups will have to fight for parking here, I have alot coming!

My car does have the XLR steering column, but lots of bits missing. Found a good price on a used one and then I can make sure I have all the electronics and maybe repurpose my extra stuff.
One thing that came to mind about my e-brake set up was possibly converting to a linear actuator and push button rather than have a handle inside. $50 linear actuator with 4" throw and a motor step counter and a couple brackets and done. Lots of cars use them now and since drifting is not a priority, it would be fine. Lots of stock e-brake buttons available too.
Ordered a pantographic wiper, but after ordering, decided it may not be the best. Will be moving motor to center and it appears a straight wiper would work best for the angles. Too bad there is no room to mount in roof above windsheild, as a pantographic wiper would hit nearly the entire windshield at that point.
Mounting a camera high and keeping it constant powered with a screen to act as a full time rear view mirror. I even thought about 2 90 degree cameras and two smaller screens. get them aimed right and match the left and right image, and you really wouldn't need side mirrors anymore either! 180 degree view available and a 90 degree wouldn't hardly skew the image.
Battery and tray ordered and remote jump posts. Right now I am trying to get all of my wiring done and dang near forgot I needed a battery!

What are you guys using for your acc and on switching? A regular key/ignition cylinder? This is about the best quality I have found so far- Bayliner Mercury 899887T04 Black 4 Position Inboard Boat Ignition Switch | eBay
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
It is in mock up stage. Nothing is tightened and previous owner was going for race car, when I am going more for an optioned out street car. Since suspension bolts and nuts literally were falling off of it when it was being unloaded off truck, a full disassembly is in order to make sure nothing got missed. Not super happy about it, but what the hell, not like it is a hard car to pull apart, haha.
It looks like it was assembled enough to look good from far, but realistically, I am not far off from starting with an unassembled kit.
 
It is in mock up stage. Nothing is tightened and previous owner was going for race car, when I am going more for an optioned out street car. Since suspension bolts and nuts literally were falling off of it when it was being unloaded off truck, a full disassembly is in order to make sure nothing got missed. Not super happy about it, but what the hell, not like it is a hard car to pull apart, haha.
It looks like it was assembled enough to look good from far, but realistically, I am not far off from starting with an unassembled kit.

Ah, I must have missed the part about it not being completed. I always assumed it was a completed and running car.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
What are you guys using for your acc and on switching? A regular key/ignition cylinder? This is about the best quality I have found so far- Bayliner Mercury 899887T04 Black 4 Position Inboard Boat Ignition Switch | eBay
I take it your car doesn't have the ISIS system? Most of us are using ISIS and a engine start button. I used a Sea Dog ignition switch in my Cobra - never had any issues with it: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/420375-1-Position-Ignition-Switch-Screws/dp/B00120LUYM]Amazon.com: Sea Dog 420375-1 Four Position Ignition Switch, Long Shaft / 4 Screws: Automotive[/ame]
 

Scott Rowland

Supporter
Yes, I did pick up the ISIS system. I finally read the instructions about an hour ago, haha. So basically the fob is acting like an off to on position key would do. Then push button start.
 
I even thought about 2 90 degree cameras and two smaller screens. get them aimed right and match the left and right image, and you really wouldn't need side mirrors anymore either!
I was thinking of using these side mount cameras installed on the sides of the car forward of the door and activated by the turn signal for a good side view of the road:

Accelevision SVC950 Color CCD Mini Surface Mount Back Up Camera Side-Rear Mount

However, you will most likely still need side mirrors as they are a legal requirement. Last I heard, Tesla was trying to get the federal laws changed to accept video side cameras rather than mirrors....

Several guys have installed commercial electric e-brakes in their SLC's, I saw one in one of the Allen videos.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
Yes, I did pick up the ISIS system. I finally read the instructions about an hour ago, haha. So basically the fob is acting like an off to on position key would do. Then push button start.
The fob replaces the key for security, as the ignition won't come on when ISIS is "locked". The start button both turns the ignition on and engages the starter. Push and release turns on ignition, push and hold turns on ignition then engages the starter.
 
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