SLC 001 Build

Wow, love those fat Can Am tires in the rear. Love the small front intake just for brake cooling because you split the radiators and moved them to the rear. Almost like looking at a Tesla, your brain says there's something wrong. here The front end doesn't have the normal large opening to cool a radiator. That SLC is freaking gorgeous!!

Howard Jones

Robert has completed the most extensive design changes to date to a SLC. They are really well done as well as beautiful. I can't wait to see under the bodywork. You technical guys really have a treat in store.

His car really speaks to the strengths of the SLC platform. In itself a really timeless design but it also has all the elements necessary to allow for almost unrestricted personal design changes.

I have been watching this car being transformed for quite a few years now and I still am stunned by its futuristic look. Really well done Robert.
Been noticing something as I get out and drive more and more. Men and boys are of course enthusiastic, no surprise there, but many people that I would ever expect to care for any type of performance car stop and take note. Older women for one group, normally never known to even glance at this type automobile pause, circle (literally), and ask questions.

Pretty cool.
For us Ricardo users;
Do you have any free play when you first start to depress the clutch pedal? Meaning - before the slave cylinder comes in contact with the clutch fingers. Mine gives full resistance as soon as I touch the pedal. I'm thinking I need to look into this....

I do not have any free play in the clutch and my throw on the pedal is pretty short.
WOW! pretty nice Rob, what can I say other than a job better than well done, its just cool. all that's needed is a something to keep it company in the shed, I wonder what else could be THAT COOL ??

Cheers Leon
So one winter project was to get some weatherstripping installed. Unfortunately, I needed to rework the door handle fills (then repaint) before that could happen. For a still unknown reason the exterior door handle fill work printed through to the paint. Short version of a two month story - all fixed now.

I used Bill Phillips' guidelines for rubber seal materials and set to work. During which, I just could not get the doors to stop leaking in the horizontal areas behind the opening. Turns out the solution was to plumb drains in this area to prevent standing water build up, which would ultimately pour into the car when you opened the door. Crude in-process pictures attached. Hope it helps someone water proof their car.

BTW; There are shallow pockets right behind the door opening used to run a fastener in to hold the body to the upper frame (with black tape in them in my pics). These pockets should be filled in during the body prep phase. They fill up with water, which again just sits there in wait till you to open the door so it can drain into the car

My first time logging into this site in almost five years. I have tried avoiding it as I have almost zero time for car stuff these days and less time for car forums. That said, I heard that you were "done" so I had to jump on offer my cograts to you.

Well done Rob. You have taken this beautiful and wild looking car to another level. Untouchable.
Really nice to hear from you, I appreciate the checking and commenting.
(Dave and I did our DMV SB100 applications in the wee hours of the same cold January morning. Being at different locations, we kept our spirits up via cell phone pep talks)
Unfortunately my upgraded Timken level C4 rear wheel bearings failed at about 2,000 miles. Since our buddy Howard Jones had already "fixed" the problem of having C4 bearing designs in a HP corner carving car, I thought it the perfect time to put his good work to use.

Before you is the DSS 33 spline C7 / 930 stubs and the Jones autograph model Gen-1 rear upright installation counter bore tools.
All's I need is the bearings and I'm off to the (uh...) races. Looking forward to having this issue over and done with, never to be dealt with again.

Thanks Howard.


When it rains....
I have a Hot Rod Lane serpentine belt 'system' on my car, mostly consisting of their idler pulleys. Seems they may now be out of business. All the bearings in those pulleys are now failing. Which means the engine virtually has to come out to replace.

These pulleys use a 5203 RS bearing, which is a single row (I'm guessing of dubious quality). I see double row bearings are available from SKF. But the rub is - all these bearings seem to have a 5K to 10K max RPM rating. With 10% overdrive harmonic balancer pulley that makes like 5K RPM pulley speeds on the freeway in 6th gear. What bearing is going to survive at 7K engine RPM (21K pulley RPM) ?

Recommendations appreciated.