SPF p2348

Steve

Supporter
Re: p2348

Aviaid. The pan, the pump, the tank and the pulleys. I'll be installing it once I get the transaxle.
 

Steve

Supporter
Re: p2348

Well the first attempt at dropping the engine in resulted in contact between the dry sump pulley and the firewall. It is exceptionally tight in here if you do a dry sump. With Olthoff's serpentine belt system I would have plenty of room without the sump. First photo shows my initial setup. After talking with Dennis, I cut off both the sump shaft and the shaft on the crank pulley to move the gears in as far as they can go. We'll see how it goes this weekend. Can't wait to prime the dry sump....:furious:

I'm trying to simplify my oil lines a bit and have a -12AN T adapter. I'm trying to an adapter that the oil temp sensor can connect to that will plug into the -12AN T. This Fragola adapter was supposed to accomplish it but the temp sensor is too big and the probe would bottom out too quickly (this adapter almost looks like a -6AN female to -12AN female). Any ideas would be welcome
 

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Steve

Supporter
Re: p2348

An illness set me back about a month. Just getting back to it. Engine finally in. The dry sump pulleys need to be as short as possible. Even then, the nut on the crank dips into the hole in the firewall and rubs. This necessitates cutting it out a bit so when the engine heaves, you don't hear a "grinding". There's about 3/8"-12" of clearance in front of the dry sump pulley. The compartment is really really tight. I would have been done a month ago if not for the dry sump, but where's the fun in that. Lessons learned:

1. Dennis' serpentine setup is excellent. It fits cleanly and puts both the alternator and AC on the right, freeing up precious room on the left for radiator hose routing. Even without the dry sump, it is a cleaner install and the whole thing including the water pump pulley will fit under the stock cover with no cutting.
2. I had to do a lot of finessing to get the radiator hose outlets on the left of the firewall to come low enough to clear the dry sump belt. They need to be in the lower half of the opening you see.
3. Just plan on opening the middle hole if you're using a dry sump. There's no way around it. Dennis does it (didn't know that until after I made the decision to cut up my precious car)
4.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Alright, time for some updates. I installed a CNC brake bias adjuster. I doubt I'll use it much, but once it's dialed in the adjuster should keep the bias screw from "migrating" on it's own. I also didn't like the tight space around the dry sump so used a 90 degree aluminum elbow and cut some sheet metal to get the coolant lines at least 2cm away from the dry sump belt drive. Need to touch up the paint and we're good there. Did Rick's insulation around the AC box. There was some assymetry to how the AC box met up with the firewall causing the box on the left side to be much closer to the fire wall than the right side of the box. I cut down some of the foam from the hole furthest to the left and added it to the hole on the right to build it up. Worked out fine and resulted in a snug fit. Lastly, added some padding around the roll cage inside the car.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Next up is the wiring. Quicktime bell housing is on and the starter is mounted. I'm reviewing Bias' diagram. Figured out the wiring for the fuel pumps but still working on the rest. Will begin with wiring the starter and then the alternator
 

Steve

Supporter
So there doesn't appear to be a true solenoid (like I'm used to from my 1st car, a '68 mustang and diagrammed here) and the starter cable comes directly from the battery. In this car, there's a kill switch up by the drivers shoulder (I think that was a Dennis install) so the cable goes from the positive terminal on the battery (the blank cable with no terminal) to the kill switch and from the kill switch directly to the battery (terminated cable shown next to the battery). There's a separate green wire that comes from the ignition and goes to the "switch ignition" terminal on the starter. Now for the questions:

1. Grounding the starter. How important is it to separately ground the starter? The starter is obviously connected to the back plate which is connected to the engine which will be grounded.

2. I'm planning on using this to ground the engine Single Heavy Duty Ground Strap KitDetails | Painless Performance Where are people grounding the battery on the engine and, similarly where on the frame are you grounding the engine? I was planning to ground the battery to one of the bolts that mounts the starter.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Here was the original coolant routing. While both hoses comfortably exited the hole in the firewall to the left, the both ran directly into the dry sump pulley. Going dry sump does add several orders of additional complexity to be sure. I initially tried taking the top hose and angling it down, but the clearance from the dry sump belt was literally 3/8" Ultimately, enlarging the hole towards the center and using an aluminum 90 degree tube angling it down gave the most clearance. If you don't have AC and can put the pump on the right side, you'll avoid this (shut up Mike..).
 

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So there doesn't appear to be a true solenoid (like I'm used to from my 1st car, a '68 mustang and diagrammed here) and the starter cable comes directly from the battery.
Steve,

With a PMGR starter you don't use a "solenoid" like the old style starter, the positive goes directly to the starter. I do suggest a really good direct battery negative to block cable in addition to the chassis ground. With a good block ground a cable direct to the starter will not be needed but do suggest at least one starter mounting bolt uses a "star" washer as well as one at the chassis ground.

Picture:
 

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Steve,
Thank you for sharing all of this detail (and keeping life the SPF section!).
Q’s regarding your roll bar: I see the SPF four-point loop in the engine bay, has this been enhanced to a six point cage? Are there conformal vertical bars in the A-pillar?
Thank you,
Steve A
 

Steve

Supporter
Steve, the roller is a pure custom job by Dennis. You can opt for the 4 point in the engine compartment or this 6 point which includes bars going down the A-pillar. This is a "street" version of the 6 point cage that's not quite as intrusive as the GT40R cage. The bar on the sill is just one rather than 2 and there's only one bar going down the center of the cockpit.

Rick, that sounds good. Where do you ground the engine to the chassis? I was thinking about the top of the motor mounts as there isn't much else to attach to in the engine compartment. I'll be sending the battery ground back to where the starter mounts and I'll use the washers suggested.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Back at it. Fuel lines and carb is installed. Need to check the excursion of the pedal and makes sure it is sufficient. Electrical is done. Blas' schematic was crucial. I also wired in this Ron Francis device to go to the alternator warning light so it will still work with a more modern 3G Alternator
 

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