Stephan's SLC Build Log

Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
Hello Stephan,
I hope you are doing well.
Not to bother you, but - any updates on your build?
Markus
 
Hello Markus,

I have been SLC sober for 18 month know and not relapsed as of yet touching it. I have acquired some new parts and plan on getting back on it next week with some fresh ideas. I decided to take a long break to pursue a long lived dream on building a Bonneville speed record motorcycle. The project is reaching the final stages with the engine being build over the next few weeks and month by a famous builder. Frame, suspension, brakes, racing dry clutch, special chambered CNC billet heads, tuned exhaust, wheels, with hand hammered tank, seat and fairing from aluminum etc. all custom build and CNC machined to handle the required top speed, new doubled engine output and braking power. Base bike was 1972 Kawasaki H2 750CC 2 two stroke (AKA, the Widow Maker). For some fun, early pictures of the project mockup. It is painted, partially assembled and much further along now... Hoping that I am not stepping on anyone posting this.

Cheers,

Stephan
 

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Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
Stephan,
Thanks for the reply.
Sober for 18 month! Does not mean anything! YOU ARE ADDICTED! Sorry to tell you ;)

Bonneville speed record motorcycle? Wowo_O - curious to see more - so for me it would be great to see more here in your thread or in the "Wings, Wheels, and Keels" section >
However, looking forward to see some of your "Fresh ideas".....

Markus
P.S. don't forget to post a video of the H2 two-stroke sound
 
"don't forget to post a video of the H2 two-stroke sound"

Ahhhh the smell of premix in the morning, topped lovingly with multi-cylinder sound.
Remembrances of youth and Sears Point Raceway.

Only ever owned one street two stroke (KH500) and one race two stroke (TZ750)
Exciting times those.
 
I am currently experimenting with my own racing harness floor anchors and backing plates. Could not find anything I liked on the market, so I make them myself. This is the prototype, should be close to final version. Special version for cars with low ground clearance. Fresh off the lathe and milling machine.

Cheers,

Stephan
 

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Joel K

Supporter
Here is a series of pictures of the tacked exhaust collectors and first test fitment. This engine is a few inches wider than a LS series and the manifolds sitting over the frame rails. I maxed out at about 10 degree tilt due to spacing issues with the collector flange bolts.
Hi Stephan, looking back through your build thread I noticed you used aftermarket flanges for the exhaust you fabbed up. These flanges are flat and not machined like the factory ones. Wonder what type of gasket you used to seal them up against the manifolds. I assume the factory gaskets would not work.

I was thinking about buying the flanges from the tabzone which look similar to the ones you used. Can’t seem to find any original GM flanges for sale.


Appreciate the info. Thanks,
Joel
 
Hi Stephan, looking back through your build thread I noticed you used aftermarket flanges for the exhaust you fabbed up. These flanges are flat and not machined like the factory ones. Wonder what type of gasket you used to seal them up against the manifolds. I assume the factory gaskets would not work.

I was thinking about buying the flanges from the tabzone which look similar to the ones you used. Can’t seem to find any original GM flanges for sale.


Appreciate the info. Thanks,
Joel
Hi Stephan, looking back through your build thread I noticed you used aftermarket flanges for the exhaust you fabbed up. These flanges are flat and not machined like the factory ones. Wonder what type of gasket you used to seal them up against the manifolds. I assume the factory gaskets would not work.

I was thinking about buying the flanges from the tabzone which look similar to the ones you used. Can’t seem to find any original GM flanges for sale.


Appreciate the info. Thanks,
Joel
Hello Joel,

I purchased at the time from Tabzone as well before switching to tuned length headers. If I remember correctly I went with 3/8" steel and used factory LS7 gasket. The profile was milled in the factory LS7 stainless manifold flange to properly seat and to create the required pressure to the gasket. As far as I know the LS7 factory flange on the exhaust side is flat as well. Mark B. sold a set of cut off factory LS7 flanges some time back . On these pictures you can the that only one side is profiled. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/ls7-exhaust-flanges.53030/

Cheers
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
The flange is also recessed on the opposite side (cat pipe side). Zoom in on the picture and you can see the recess.
 
I was going back and forth between the race bike and the SLC. The bike is on hold now until the engine is done in February. Back on the SLC, I enlarged the holes for the air conditioning to increase flow and started to fit the tub to fabricate the close outs. The chose a lip seal instead of a bulb seal since my tub is mainly supported by the side impact bars and not the closeout panels. It beautifully follows the contour of the tub and is creating a good seal. The tub is within 0.6mm at the front pillars and requires only two screws in the footwell to sit in place.
 

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Getting ready to drop the tub in for good. During test fitment with seats I noticed a deflection in the tub area of the seat front depending on where you put your foot to get into the seat. To prevent the tub from cracking and fatigue from stress, I fabricated these dimpled light weight supports.
 

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HAPPY NEW YEAR !

I guess I have nothing better to do on new years day then spending it in the garage...:).
Some progress to report.

The tub and roll cage are in and the body lowered from its suspended Hypersleep from under the ceiling. Initial fitment and measurements are positive. Followed Alan's video to do the cutouts which turned out nicely I think (well my first ones). Still some work to do but so far the important spots I can get it within 2mm, measured from the frame. Let's see what goes down when the body is locked down to the floor. The tub is resting on the side impact bars which received these saddle washers with 1.5" ID radius to match the tubing used. With a large rubber washer, a squeal and squeak free installation.
 

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Installed the Audi R8 shifter in its final place and locked it in with the original center console which I am not certain will remain or be replaced with a completely different design. Time will tell..
 

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I have modified the center console to a little wider version. I feel that the new design is aesthetically more pleasing and will form later a nicer transition to the dash. It is still on the backbone of original narrow console to give me as much space as possible to keep the seats close to center.
 

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In order to hang the doors I wanted to prevent the shiny billet hinges to get beat up by scratching. I followed Ken's idea with the guide rollers and backing plates which I bonded to the body. You can hang a tank from those plates which will be a good thing since I'll be installing the actuators soon. All I can say is that IT WORKS ! Super smooth operation, strong guidance with no lateral play, no residue on the hinges from the rollers. I tweaked the design a little and eliminated some of the hardware. Designed an alignment tool to set weld on bushing to hold the rollers. Very clean and strong.
 

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With the hinges in place I was able to set the doors. To find the correct spot for the holes to be drilled the first time so guessing was required I used some punches I made up similar to what Ken suggested. All that time spent finding the critical spots the body is responding to is paying off. So far the gaps on the car are lining up very well.
 

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