Stronger Starter

The stock starter for the Graz is the Bosch SR0408X. Its a refurbished unit built for Volkswagens from 1995 - 2006 for nothing more than a 1.9L engine. Has anyone found a stronger gear reduction unit or anything better than this unit?
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I bought a couple of low mileage used OEM AUDI R8 starters from E Bay for about $130 each. They come up all the time.
 
Ken

Stupid question but I assume they fit the flywheel gearing and throw. Have you installed one yet? I presume it would crank the LS engine better than the current stock unit. What’s your thought?
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
Unfortunately I’m still in the planning stages so I won’t be able to give any feedback. The type of connector used is the only visual difference. Listening to Cams engine turn over during his no start issues .....sounds like the starter is doing it’s job.
 
Is that Cam T that’s using the Audi unit? Any idea what part number on the connector? Does it matter which year of R8 to look for?
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I think almost everyone is using the Jetta starter. The OEM Audi R8 starter goes by part #02Z9110231. Starters from 08 to 15 can be used.. The pigtail goes by part number #1K0973751. (Try not to buy a Chinese copy)

I bought one starter from these guys https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-R8-st...320986?hash=item34092e2eda:g:xJQAAOSwLnBX5DHc

Here is a photo of the side of one I bought. I decided to go with the OEM starter due to the fact the one you mentioned was only for a 4 cylinder. It does sound like it turns over Cam's engine with ease though.
IMG_2555.JPG
 
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My original starter was a Bosch SR0408X as well. This failed on me early on and RCR sent me out a 17755N replacement - don’t recall the manufacturer now or have a photo of anything besides the part number.

The starter sounded fine in my no-start condition, I should have engaged the clutch just to verify the bendix was functioning correctly but didn’t think to do so at the time.
 

Johan

Supporter
Cam, you can definetly hear on the video that the engine is turning, don’t think there is anything wrong with the bendix.
Could it be something wrong with your DigitalGuardDawg? IIRC it controls ignition as well.
 
Ok I have to ask.

The basic starter we received are for the Volkswagen and generally seems to be for a 4 cylinder motor. They only need so much power to start. The Audi is a small V8 so can I assume correctly that the starter for the Audi is built to spin the bigger engine, aka it’s got more guts.

Now most of us have good old V8 blocks in the 6.2 liter range. While the 4 cylinder units work most of the time, would the Audi version be the better choice?

I would really like a gear reduction unit.......
 
Cam, you can definetly hear on the video that the engine is turning, don’t think there is anything wrong with the bendix.
Could it be something wrong with your DigitalGuardDawg? IIRC it controls ignition as well.

Johan - yeah it sounded just fine to me as well but nothing like getting positive confirmation to knock it off the list ;)

It’s possible it may be digital guard dawg related but the electronics for the alarm are all located at the front of the car. I also hard rebooted the car multiple times via the kill switch. The only thing that gets power after I flip the kill is my radio and mirror so I don’t lose the memory settings. The system has an LED around the switch that lets you know what state it’s in and all times it registered unarmed and ready for start.
 
Interesting conversation with PowerMaster Tech today. The question was is a 4 cylinder starter designed to have less power than an 8 cylinder starter. Generally speaking.....they said no.

Could not get Bosch to provide feedback on our VW vs Audi starter comparison.
 
I posted this some time ago, maybe it will help. >>>>>>>>
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/battery-starter-dilema.49641/#post-503855

Since then I am still using the same starter. I have 2 of them, one bought at a Lambo dealer and the other on eBay for an Audi R8. They are both the same Bosch SR0408X and behave identically. The engine cranks very well the problem is with the initial turn of the starter. If I hang on that it bogs right down but a quick lift off Start and then instantly hit it again gets a very prompt crank. This has been working for me for some years but I would still prefer to have a better starter.
 
Jerry

I hit the wrong blog, but I read your old situation. I’m adding a heat shield and when it happens again, I will use your start procedure. I don’t think the Bosch unit looks like a good unit, appears cheap. Mine is a reman, makes me wonder. I have not found an after market company who makes a replacement unit that is better.

Ken gave us a different part number, I wonder what the internal difference may be. I plan to track one down soon.
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I don't remember if it was Tilton ([email protected] or 805-688-2353 ) , or Meziere ( https://www.meziere.com/Products/Starters.aspx or 800.208.1755 ) , but one of them offers custom built starters. Whoever it was, said they had done custom units for Audi. I don't seem to be able to locate that page, but it might be worth giving them a call. I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap, but neither is the aggravation of a car that won't start with a crowd of onlookers standing around offering suggestions.
 
With an LS7 and 4 gauge wiring, the Bosch unit (which was purchased new), had a tough time. I upgraded the wiring to 00 and it would spin the motor no issues. 00 is probably overkill. If your battery is in back, 2 is probably OK. If it's in front, I expect you need 0 or 00. Be sure your ground is also up to the task.
 
Question:

I'm running 4 gauge from battery to the starter over a 4 foot stretch. While running a larger gauge (2, 1, 1/0) is better, bending it to match the current run angles may not work. What happens if I run another 4 gauge parallel to the existing wire?
 
Running two wires parallel is fine (and not uncommon outside of cars).

Two 4 gauge is equivalent to a single 1 gauge.
Two 6 gauge is equivalent to a single 3 gauge.
One 4 + One 6 is equivalent to a single 2 gauge.
 
BTW, I have since moved to a smaller motor (4L V8), moved my battery to the front and changed to 2 gauge. All is good - but this motor is much easier to spin than the LS7.
 
You could test the need for additional wire by using a good set of jumper cables. Attach to battery and starter (I'd try attaching + and - in case ground is an issue). If that does not improve things, running the extra wire (or larger gauge) may not fix anything.
 
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