Turkey Pan - Cold Air Box
- Thread starter muttsjet
- Start date
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
From the looks of what I've seen about 16 gauge or .050.
Looking good Mark! I see you put a thick piece of polycarbonate thats the best choice, it will hold up much better to warping.
Looking good Mark! I see you put a thick piece of polycarbonate thats the best choice, it will hold up much better to warping.
Jack,
I don't know if you remember, but I used Lexan for the cover and it melted... Practically drooped down on top of the headers. Much as I liked it for viewing enjoyment, I ended up replacing it with a piece of aluminum.
As long as the car was moving, I didn't see a problem. When it got hot in the summer time here in Houston and I had to sit for awhile at a light in traffic, it didn't like it...
FWIW,
Kirby
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
Yep, I still have it in my garage, was I suppose to make another? I forgot....
Look at his Kirby, its 3/8 to 1/2 thick, it will hold up.
Another one like that won't fit anymore since I changed to your see through air cleaners... they are offset different than the other ones I had for some reason.
I've never actually investigated what the difference is... Yours use a different filter, for sure.
I'll need to make another cover to fit. Even the aluminum one I have now doesn't fit right. And I certainly could try the thicker material....
Kirby
Hi Guys,
I plan to do the same on my MKII meaning a Turkey pan and a rear cover.
For the turkey pan I've asked on another post the dimensions to build it but I still have no reply. (I have an 8 stack Efi Roush engine). It will be longer but I'll build it with a friend who's aware in building parts in Aluminium or in stainless steel.
For the rear cover I'm not going to use Lexan but Macrolon (the name in french - I don't know if it's the same in english). Macrolon is better than Lexan for hot temperature and mine is going to be 5 milimeters of thick.
I suppose you can find this material in the US. If it can help..
OliveR
I plan to do the same on my MKII meaning a Turkey pan and a rear cover.
For the turkey pan I've asked on another post the dimensions to build it but I still have no reply. (I have an 8 stack Efi Roush engine). It will be longer but I'll build it with a friend who's aware in building parts in Aluminium or in stainless steel.
For the rear cover I'm not going to use Lexan but Macrolon (the name in french - I don't know if it's the same in english). Macrolon is better than Lexan for hot temperature and mine is going to be 5 milimeters of thick.
I suppose you can find this material in the US. If it can help..
OliveR
I suspect with replicas having various engine and transaxle combinations in addition to differing intake manifolds, motor mount height and fore/aft variances, that a one-size-fits-all-perfectly turkey pan is only a dream.
For me, I will make a template for the base and sides out of heavy construction paper, then transfer to aluminum, then bend and weld. I suspect that's the only way I will get one that fits my combination perfectly..
For me, I will make a template for the base and sides out of heavy construction paper, then transfer to aluminum, then bend and weld. I suspect that's the only way I will get one that fits my combination perfectly..
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Interesting stuff. Makrolon AG2677 starts to melt at 280 celsius (550 fahrenheit) which should be just fine for engine bay use as long as its not right near an exhaust manifold.
https://plastics.bayer.com/plastics...G2677_ISO/docId-79194/Makrolon_AG2677_ISO.pdf
But some grades melt far lower and so far I haven't found a Lexan that has a melting temp higher than about 150 celsius (300 fahrenheit) and it's easy to imagine that having a problem like Kirby describes.
And the US distributor of Makrolon, Sheffield Plastics, only Makrolons with a two-letter product name, and none of them seem to go higher than 150C. I don't know what's up with that.
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Darn it... and here I was thinking the solution was at hand...
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
I misread the AG2677 specs: the 280c spec is the melt temperature at which the injection mold the stuff. The softening temp is 143 C . Sorry.... I may be losing my mind....
In this guide https://plastics.bayer.com/plastics/emea/en/product/makrolon/docId-36207/PCS-8001_en.pdf?docPart=0 the highest softening temp I can find is for Makrolon 3206 at exactly 150C. But I'm having a hard time seeing that it matters what polycarbonate product (Lexan, Makrolon, Tuffak,...) you use; they all seem to soften within a few degrees of each other.
OTOH, some people have used clear plastic over their engines and gotten away with it (eg SteveC/P2125) although only after engineering some ventilation and wrapping some exhaust pipes. (http://www.gt40s.com/forum/superformance-gt40s/25354-upgrades-options-mods-p2125.html#post249208) This may be a close-to-unsolvable problem.
Oliver -- can you tell us exactly which Makrolon you're going to use?
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Few pics of progress (intake holes in pass side plate just template reuse).
Gathering together aluminum welding gear and argon gas. Haven't welded aluminum before so probably will need to practice a bit first.
Gathering together aluminum welding gear and argon gas. Haven't welded aluminum before so probably will need to practice a bit first.
Attachments
Oliver -- can you tell us exactly which Makrolon you're going to use?
Hi Alan,
I don't know yet the type of Macrolon I'm going to use. I let this decision to a friend of mine who well knows the product.
I'll let you know once the choice will be done.
By the way, for SAAC 38 that's ok I've booked my flights and hotel. Arriving 2 of July and living 9 of July.
OliveR
Hi Alan,
I don't know yet the type of Macrolon I'm going to use. I let this decision to a friend of mine who well knows the product.
I'll let you know once the choice will be done.
By the way, for SAAC 38 that's ok I've booked my flights and hotel. Arriving 2 of July and living 9 of July.
OliveR
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
Looks like a lot of work Mark but it looks good!
Since I'm going to have to resync carbs, need to ensure I've got timing right. For those engine gurus out there, what's the best total timing (mech+initial) you would use for the following motor (imagine it's 38-40 but thought I'd ask):
1966 Ford 427 Side Oiler
Bore: 4.26 inches (.030 over)
Stroke: 3.78 inches
Rod length: 6.49
Block Deck Height: 10.15
Duration at .020 is 270 intake/274 exhaust
Duration at .050 is 244 intake (14/50)/248 exhaust (56/12)
Intake maximum Lift is 108 degrees
Exhaust maximum Lift is 112 degrees
Lobe Separation is 110 Crankshaft Degrees
Both valves are open for 26 degrees
Lobe lift is 330 degrees
Gross Lift for 1.76 Rockers is .580
Valve Lash is .18 hot on both sides (.14 cold)
1966 Ford 427 Side Oiler
Bore: 4.26 inches (.030 over)
Stroke: 3.78 inches
Rod length: 6.49
Block Deck Height: 10.15
Duration at .020 is 270 intake/274 exhaust
Duration at .050 is 244 intake (14/50)/248 exhaust (56/12)
Intake maximum Lift is 108 degrees
Exhaust maximum Lift is 112 degrees
Lobe Separation is 110 Crankshaft Degrees
Both valves are open for 26 degrees
Lobe lift is 330 degrees
Gross Lift for 1.76 Rockers is .580
Valve Lash is .18 hot on both sides (.14 cold)
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
Very nice! Look great, I like the plate for inversion. :thumbsup:
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
14 degree and 35
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