Upgrades/options and mods to P2125

Steve,
Your setup sounds right. Guess I didn't read correctly. Did you wire the bypass directly to the ignition switch? I am thinking of wiring mine to a momentary switch that has to be thrown in order for the pumps to run and car to start. If not depressed/flipped, the fuel pumps will not work. The switch will be in a non dash location. Sort of an anti theft setup. This may be a moot sort of thing if the turn over pressure exceeds the pressure switch.


Bill
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Bill,

Low oil pressure switch wired to fuel pump relay.

Why not wire a hidden "security" switch into the ignition switch ?
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
New upgrades to P2125:

Grease fittings added to lower ball joint cover cups.

New gaskets (thicker/more compliant) for fuel tank access plates.

Plexi engine cover plate assembly (to prevent header from melting plexi..1'st plexi cover melted with just a single plate).

Rubber mud flaps (thanks to Chuck and Ryan with the RCR for the idea).

Steve
 

Attachments

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Latest upgrade to P2125.

In order to further reduce possibility of heat warpage of plexi engine cover wrapped the high header and sprayed with high temp aluminum filled silver paint:
 

Attachments

Steve,
Have you considered glass? I imagine the cut out might get a little tricky!! I have the high exhaust like yours. If I experience warping, that will be my option.

Bill
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Bill,

Tempered I presume.

Anyone done this or have idea as to thickness, and cost?

If I still have a deformation problem with the new plexi I made after the revised ali cover plate (see above pic) and wrapped header is tested I will explore either the polycarb or glass approach (I really like the "look into engine compartment look" so want to stay with that look)

Thanks , Steve
 
Steve, if you decide to replace the engine cover window with lexan (polycarbonate), get hard-coated lexan, also called MR-10. Straight lexan has a somewhat soft surface and scratches when wiped off with a dry cloth. You can just cut it from sheet and it takes the shape of the car when fastened down.
 
Steve,
I have followed your build improvments with interest. Great job on this car. I really like the attention to details and the other things that you have added to make this car one of the best MKII's that I have seen. How are you enjoying the car in that Boston weather?
I saw your post on the SPF site in their gallery. Beautiful.
Garry
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Garry,

Thanks for the kudos.

Car is up on blocks for Bostom winter (doing mods, PM's, ect). Will be on the road in early April or any good day before that.

Re you a SPF owner or soon to be? If any questions feel free to let me know.

Steve
 
Steve,
I am still doing my research but SPF is the car I am leaning toward. One problem for me is I want to build an early '66 road coupe MKI, and there are several design problems with SPF's roller that need to be corrected if I want it to be as close as possible. Their MKI makes a good Gulf style car as the basic spider and tub is the same as the later cars. I would appreciate any pointers that you can provide. Who knows, the more that I look at your car, I think that MKII looks stunning.
Garryrockonsmile
 
Steve,
I am still doing my research but SPF is the car I am leaning toward. One problem for me is I want to build an early '66 road coupe MKI, and there are several design problems with SPF's roller that need to be corrected if I want it to be as close as possible.
Care to elaborate? I'm in the same situation you are with the same general thoughts, but am interested in your specific critiques.

You know that SPF offers three different rear ends, including a narrow early-style rear end with two early taillights on each side...
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
Mike, I am considering the GT40R and through my inspection and scrutinizing, there is one issue I have a hard time accepting.

The dash panel for which the toggle switches mount is at a noticeably different angle than any original (and replica) designed dash. If you look closely, the angle of the panel is slanted less downward, closer to level.

I've searched and searched for 'original' pics that may show matching the SPF design. Being that SPF produced the MkII's first I thought it may follow a Mk II design but have yet to find one. It actually is designed closer to match the more recent Ford GT design :shrug:

To me it's quite noticeable and hard to ignore, especially when it's something you have to look at if you intend to drive it.

Short of that one issue, I truly think it's an amazing replica.
 
Mike,
I knew from your posts that you and I were on the same page about what your GT40 dream car is. That being said, the bigest drawback for me in recreating a '66 car from SPF is the single post closure on the rear deck. I know that Victor on this post had his done with the two post closure per the early cars but when I asked him to elaborate as to how this was done(by SPF or the assembler) I did not hear back from him. As for the rest of the car, I believe that we can recreate the "road coupe" pretty well by using some parts from Jay Cushman and others. Of course we will need to delete or toss the seats from SPF as they are not per the origional 'road coupe' or the 'sport coupe'. These were either leather without grommets or a nylon (romex) lightweight seat with nickle grommets. Oh and no roof vent! That's a big factor of authenticity if all of the SPF rollers come with this feature. Not to mention that the handbrake was under the steering column and the adjustable pedals could be adjusted from a hand lever under the dash. All of this can be corrected with money, but I have not decided how far I can afford to go. After all, I would hate to buy a roller from SPF and then delete about 25% of the equipment to make this look correct.
As a matter of fact, ERA has the closest body and dash of the early cars and the workmanship is terriffic, but INMHO, it seems that it takes forever to get the car and then you will have a lot of work to do to put this together.ERA has some shortcommings as well with the main one being no metal spider. Choices....choices!
Garry:worried:
 
Garry,

Re: the SPF handbrake, understand that the original GT40 handbrake was a lever that pulled a cable on rollers that attached to the brake pedal and the "handbrake" merely engaged the service brakes! This met the FIA requirement but is not legal in most places as the regulations require the "emergency brake" to be a seperate system from the service brakes. SPF uses Wilwood calipers with a mechanical activation of the "E brake". The leverage required for this pretty much rules out mounting the lever to the dash panel due to cable routing and the pulling force would destroy the dash panel. When we had P1116 it had the original type E brake and if we didn't have dealer plates and not need to State Inspect the car, it would not have passed inspection.

I am sure SPF can do the seats with the balloon nylon to recreate the original non-leather seat look.
 
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Rick,
Thanks for the heads-up on the e-brake of the early cars. I figured that these were operated the same way as the Wilwood brakes...by cable to the rears. I get what you mean by the force neede to engage the brakes. I had an old corvair that used an underdash lever to hold the brakes and was cable operated to the rears. Granted, those were drums in that era. Has anyone tried to use a cable sysem routed under the pan that would engage the rears on the GT40? It shouldn't be much of a drag on the car and it probably could be fastened in a sleeve so that it is protected from road trash. What do you think? oh, and mount that lever to something sturdy under the dash...maybe a brace of some sort.
Garry
 

Steve C

Steve
GT40s Supporter
Garry,

You should look at MIRAGE cars (see thread under GT40 Build Log forum).It is the most accurate car and will have all you want. Follow too all the other original parts that the guys building the MIRAGE built cars have sourced and you will get an idea of what is involved to be "truely accurate".

You should also start a new post dealing with your question to get the most replys as this thread is specific to my upgrades to P2125.

Regards, Steve
 
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