What replaces the distributor drive?

[clive]

Building a 302W, and setting up a EDIS8 setup (Ford Electronic Distributorless Ignition System) which uses a toothed cog on the front end of the crank.

Still need to drive the oil pump, once the distributor is removed.

I'm probably missing something, but am unable to find any reference to a cogged shaft which ends at the top of the manifold and drives the oil pump, replacing the distributor drive.

Advice required :drunk::drunk:

Clive

 

[Clayton]

Use the cam sensor assy from a AU 5.0L.
I picked up a secondhand one off ebay for $60, Ford wants around $700 !!

This link is only for picture purposes (its for the tool, not the sensor)
99-01 Explorer Mountaineer 5.0L Cam Shaft Synchronizer | eBay

Clayton

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

The "Cam Synchroniser". goes in the place of the distributor which drives the oil pump

(Part number - XL2Z 12A362 AA ) --I think ?

The crank trigger and the cam synchroniser need to work together for the timing of spark and fuel injection.



__________________

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Onya Clayton --took me 2 minutes to type that :laugh:

 

[Clayton]

Its always a good thing when the answers are the same leased:

Clayton

 

[clive]

Gentlemen, thanks for the replies.

I have tasked the local Ford dealer to come up with a price for this unit. I suspect I will get a reply immediately before I order the part from Ebay :drunk:

Clive

 

[Jack Houpe]

I just cut off the top of an old distributor and used the bottom part.

 

[clive]

Jack,

Your solution is exactly to my way of thinking. Put the saw through the distributor drive, to find that this thing is a load of rubbish. The only 'bearing' seems to be a plastic bush at the top of the drive. Someone at Ford has earnt a bonus for saving $1.78 per distributor!!!

I will now source a needle roller bearing which can run on the existing shaft, and turn the housing to accept it.

Clive.

 

[Clayton]

Clive
Are you using a carby or injection with the EDIS8 ??
You'll will need a cam synchroniser if you plan to run sequential injection.

Clayton

 

[Jack Houpe]

I have almost 9000 miles on the motor, and I pull the shaft to check the bronze drive gear every couple thousand miles, sure makes it easy to do. The top of the distributor I cut off has a metal type bearing with oil groves in it. Nothing has worn so far.

I know the guy at our local parts store real well, when I ordered the cheapest rebuilt 351 windsor distributor he looked at me funny, then I took it home and cut it off the top with a saw put it in the same box and told him LOOK WHAT YOU GUYS HAVE SOLD ME! You should have seen the look on his face when he opened the box! Of course we all had a good laugh over it.

 

[clive]

Picked up a bunch of bits from Boost (?) Engineering, which included the 35 toothed wheel for attachment to the crank.

Can anyone advise how one goes about glueing this thing to the harmonic balancer? Are there special balancers which are machined to accept this gear, or do you simply machine the balancer to accept the wheel?

Clive

 

[Clayton]

Get yourself a std AU Falcon balancer, its got the 36-1 tooth gear already fitted.

 

[clive]

Probably a good thing your in the NT, Clayton.

Otherwise I'd give you a kiss :kiss::kiss::kiss:

Clive

 

[Andy Green]

I had a shoulder machined on my after market tv damper to accept the trigger wheel. 3 slots were also machined in the trigger wheel to allow final adjustment relative to the sensor. Finally held together with 3 off M6 screws loctited in place.

Regards
Andy

 

[Clayton]

Lucky for me then :laugh:
Powerbond # PB1463-ST