Which battery?

I'm on my second battery for my car, soon to be the third, and am wondering if I should change to a different kind.

Like many SLCs, my car has the Infinitybox system which has a pretty substantial drain on the battery when on. Even with their InReserve, my battery gets flattened unless the battery cutoff is on, and sometimes that gets forgotten, and/or the automatic trickle charger gets turned off occasionally.

The result is always a flat battery.

I have an Odyssey PC1200, and I don't really blame the battery, as being radically discharged several times is a recipe for battery fatalities no matter the brand.

So, the question is, are their other choices that make more sense? For example, I know Mesa has a uber-cool LI battery with an automatic battery preserver that just internally disconnects the battery from the load when it gets close to the discharge level that could begin to have a deleterious effect on the battery. But along with being uber-cool, it's also uber-expensive. And I don't know if it fits in the same area as my current battery anyway, which is a strong preference.
 

Roger Reid

Supporter
My GTM has a battery disconnect operated by a solenoid. Mine is push button but can be key switch operated. Works well.
The only drawback is the 8 second or so boot up before I can start the motor.
 
My GTM has a battery disconnect operated by a solenoid. Mine is push button but can be key switch operated. Works well.
The only drawback is the 8 second or so boot up before I can start the motor.
My car has a similar (or maybe the same?) solenoid, which in my case is operated by a keyed switch. But if it is accidentally left in the "on" position...
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Supporter
I feel you pain Will. Similar concern and will be watching for responses. More pointedly for my problem, is that unless my battery has a really good charge, even a very slight drop in voltage prevents the ECU/sensors from getting a good enough signal to fire the ignition, even though the motor cranks well. So from my perspective, perhaps swapping from a red-top Optima, to a deep cycle yellow-top to resolve this? Battery is now 5 years old, so I'm guessing a new battery is in order, hence my interest here.

A slightly higher voltage battery would fix everything, but that's not an option. If it wasn't for the DC thing, I'd just put a cap across the starter.
 
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No battery will help you - if the power isn't cut off completely that SOB will eat the battery in two or three days.

Just don't forget to turn the cut-off; if you do, pay the stupid tax and remember next time. It only took me twice to remember all the time :)
 
Terry: You could opt for a 14v or 16v battery with the associated alternator/voltage regulator change.

In the past, I've been an optima fan, but manufacturing changes a few years ago make them not what they used to be. My local parts guy tells me most owners get less than two years out of them anymore. He swears they are no better than the middle of the road store brand any longer.

I'm thinking about trying an XS Power battery.
 
I have a Braille Lithium battery (6 lbs weight) in my SLC. It cranks an LS7. I have cutoff switch OFF when garaged. I have no cranking or battery problem.

I also have an Ultima GTR with SBC race engine, 6.3 ltr. I use a Braille glass mat lead battery B3121 21 lbs weight. I have just replaced this with the same after 4 years 10 months service.

I am in Florida which is not kind to batteries.
 
My car has a similar (or maybe the same?) solenoid, which in my case is operated by a keyed switch. But if it is accidentally left in the "on" position...
What if you were to add a LED light somewhere where you can't miss it that is lit when until you disconnect the battery? A visual indicator that your battery is still connected.

Just a thought.

As for batteries, I have been using XS power batteries for several years now with excellent results.

Ron
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Supporter
What if you were to add a LED light somewhere where you can't miss it that is lit when until you disconnect the battery? A visual indicator that your battery is still connected.

Just a thought.

As for batteries, I have been using XS power batteries for several years now with excellent results.

Ron
Nice Ron. I had to do that with mine. A red light that could be seen to illuminate the garage if I forgot to turn off the master switch.
 

Jared V

Supporter
I think the Battery your using is fine. (odyessey). I always use some type of AGM battery and I am just vigilant about using a battery tender of some type. I now use chargers that have a setting for AGM batterys specifically. In my experience 5 years no matter what battery it is and you start rolling the dice. I just assume replace it and avoid any risk of headaches. I have all my cars and motorcycles that don't run often on a charger. I have read it is good to run them down a little once in a while and then charge them back up. I have had good luck with Exide,Odyessey and Optima. Pay attention to the warranty on the Battery as a good indicator of what to resonably expect out of it before performance declines. The manufacturers have done their homework.
 
Anyone who has an Infinitybox system with a Powercell mounted on the rear bulkhead, as I do, has a set of LEDs that are on whenever the system is up- so I do have a way of telling whether it's on or not. The problem is that I sometimes I had forgotten to check, or more often, when it was at a shop for interior work, etc, sometimes it wasn't so carefully monitored, which caused a discharge.

I think in the end I'll just keep going with the current battery model and just try to be even more attentive to the problem.

Thanks for all the input!
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
I'm using a standard battery from O'Reilly's. I've drained it several times when I forgot to flip the shutoff switch, but it still works. I've had it about 2.5 years.
 

Cliff Beer

Supporter
I'm the CFO of a battery company, and live/eat/sleep battery technology and applications. Here's what I can tell you:

1. Every battery from lead acid to Li has a limited cycle life. 1,000 cycles is generally the target, but many fall short of this. Most make 800. A poor battery makes 500. Once they're done they're done.
2. Partial cycles are much easier on a battery than full cycles - particularly full drain. Full drain with a dormant period is very tough on most all batteries.
3. Batteries are highly affected by temperature. High operating temperatures will reduce capacity, and significantly reduce cycle life. Cold has the same effect generally speaking. You can't expect your battery to live 5 years if it's sitting in a cold garage over the winter times, or a hot battery box next to headers when on the road.
4. Draw at rest ("parasitic draw") is no different than active draw - except your battery isn't getting a charge. Comfortable parasitic draw for regular autos is 50-100 milliamps. If your car is drawing 500 milliamps, for example, that's going to drain your resting static-state battery pretty quick.
5. To resolve a heavy parasitic drain you need to either reduce the parasitic draw, or disconnect....there's just no other way. Eliminate simple things like trunk lights left on or heavy-draw alarm systems etc. Once you've done that, if what's left is sensors or ECUs that must remain powered up then you're going to have to add a tender. It's not the battery's fault.

Just my $.02 based upon some experience.
 
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