I'll be building a monocoque using as many FAV drawings as possible and when not available I will make parts of my own design. So as long as this build log stays friendly I will continue to update it.
I put some spreader plates between the bolts and the wood so the bolts wouldn't crush the plywood.Thanks for all the support guys. Brian I'll try that technique out thanks.
Yes they are the steel hammer forms , I cut out some MDF of the same shape and located it all with 1/4 pins through the bolt holes. The extra height the MDF gave me made it easier to hammer the steel over then trim to proper dimensions.
I used hard maple hammer forms to build aluminum wing ribs. Maple is good for severe forming operations.Yes they are the steel hammer forms , I cut out some MDF of the same shape and located it all with 1/4 pins through the bolt holes. The extra height the MDF gave me made it easier to hammer the steel over then trim to proper dimensions.
Yes, furniture-grade maple is expensive but the quantity needed as a hammer form is quite small for most projects. I have never tried those other tricks.Would you class Maple as a hard wood? We don't get them often in Australia. I'm sure you could get the wood if you looked for it, but it would be expensive furniture grade stuff.
Maple - Wikipedia
I have heard of people using various wood hardeners, stains, lacquers etc. to treat wood that is used as a hammer form. The idea is that you can use a regular or softer wood that is easier to cut and shape, then apply the coatings that soak into the wood making it harder and denser, which preserves its form and shape in use.
Thanks Ryan , I cut the steel out with a grinder 4 1/2 thin cutting disc followed by lots of filing and some sandpaper action to make sure everything was smooth.Very nice Dave.
What have you used to cut the 3/8" (10mm) steel stock that the hammer forms are made from?
I've estimated the thickness based on GT40P-1-2319/20 drawing.
I am going to have to get a wriggle on. Loving this.