DOOR LOCKS

I have an RF, but was thinking about NOT using the locks. I didn't really like the look. Has anybody done this, and what do you think?

What about a Glock?
 
Guys,
If you don't want locks, why not install a remote locking system that way you get the best of both worlds
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Neal

Lifetime Supporter
I purchased a set of low profile keyed cam-locks from McMaster-Carr. They sit just above the door handle. When locked, the cam prevents the door handle from moving in. Clean and simple. I'll post a couple pics this week.
 
I was curious what some of you guys have done for door locks. My CAV GT has no way to lock the door, and it looks as though some of the Roaring Forties cars have a key lock on the outside of the door. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
I'm going with the keyless remote, I picked up a ford controller and wiring so the rest should be downhill. The actuators are out of a GM. The push pull set up will hopefilly work better for me. I even got a keypad from an Explorer to use. I just need a good hinding spot. That shouldn't be a problem either.
When I finally do it I will take pictures.
John
 
John,

I considered installing a keyless remote, but opted for a keyed lock instead.
How will you get into the car, if you leave
a simple interior light on, and kill your battery? Or have a short circuit?
If you can open the rear clip from the outside, to recharge the battery, you'd be OK, but with an interior safety catch, and no backup keylock, you'd be in a pickle.
I guess that you could always pull out a side window, for access in a pinch.

Bill

[ May 21, 2003: Message edited by: Bill Bayard ]
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Neal,

Nicely done but you may want to consider insatlling some steel/alloy reinforcment behind the nut that holds the lock. If someone can get the front end of the door handle up enough to get a finger under it, they will have a serious mechanical advantage and probably crack the door shell. If you can adjust the "stopper" so that the handle can't be moved at all you may be OK but otherwise I could see someone cracking the fiberglass without intentionally trying to break in-just a innocent "I wanna look inside" could do the damage.
Lets face it, locks will only keep honest people out, if the bad guys want your 40, it is gone....this is an easy car to enter...but tough to "disappear in"...you can't just blend in like with a Camry...
Rick

[ May 21, 2003: Message edited by: Mark IV ]
 
I’m going with a keyless entry. The truth be known, it’s not really that hard to break into a GT40 if the battery goes flat. In fact, the only real value that I can see in a lock is as an initial deterrent and to stop those who are a little too curious… its not a serious security feature.

For true security, I’m in the process of organizing a satellite detection system with a remote engine kill. That’s about as serious as you can get … and it’s not prohibitively expensive.
 
Chris L,

Can you give more detail on that satellite detection system you mentioned?

Everyone,

Has anybody used LowJack?

Have fun!

John
 
Bill,
I thought about that also, and let's face it, you could always just simply lock the keys in the car. Anyway I will not have to get in to open the rear. Fire is also a fear of mine so I will not have internal lock releases to the rear. There are some great ideas for that though but... and like you said I could always pull the window. I really don't think it'll be locked too often anyway and that's kind of the reason I won't have key locks. My brother pointed out to me that his $40,000+ bike has no lock and he takes it to alot more bars then the GT will see. I think.
John
 
Neal,

Clever idea.
MARK IV makes some good suggestions. You might also key the reinforcement plate hole with a flat(s) to keep the body of the lock from rotating. Having used this same product before in other applications, I'd strongly sugggest adding a thread locker (Loctite) to BOTH the body retaining nut as well as the latch retaining screw. Otherwise, they are sure to vibrate loose (this is not a very high-tech device).

MARK IV's other comment about getting a finger under the latch is a good observation. I might suggest that the reinforcement plate could have a 'F' structure that the latch would engage into in the locked position to take the load, as I wouldn't consider the latch to be strong enough. Hope this is helpful.

Andy
 

Neal

Lifetime Supporter
Twenty ways to skin a cat... That is what a love about this forum!

I think the deterrent is more psychological that physical in this case. I'll definitely reinforce the back to add stability and get the old threadlocker on the cam screw. The latch/lock internals are in work as we speak.

The real alarm will be a system will be an NRA sticker on the windshield!
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Hi Guys,In South Africa locks are useless.They normally steal the car with you in it. Any car over $25,000 value must be fitted with a tracking device otherwise no insurance company will cover you. My every day car (Audi A6 2.7T) uses a product that will "lock" it to a fixed GPS position, handy when you have to leave it at an airport for instance and programmed with 25 "no-go" zones (in case you are locked in the trunk!!).See this link www.matrix.co.za for some clever kit. You can even track it via internet while you wait for the police to pitch up..Joys of living in a lawless society..
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at least we do have the sunshine ..Dave
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NEAL, COULD YOU PLEASE GIVE US THE PART NUMBERS OF THE DOOR LOCKS YOU USED ON YOUR GT-40. THANKS, JOE /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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