Advice needed from the Pro's

Jim Downard · 03-06-05, 02:33 PM

O.K. I didn't know where to post this, as it would fit in several locations, but, I remember reading somewhere that a few of you mentioned wishing you had done most of the body fitting first before starting all of the paneling and such. Any advice on this. I'm thinking that I'd rather get the bulk of the bodywork (i.e. large quantities of fiberglass dust creating work) done first, before fitting the ally panels, brake lines, and such. I think it would make it easier to clean up. Any suggestions, or do I need to have some or all of the paneling on first.

**patbarry** · 03-06-05, 05:32 PM

If I had it to do over again, I would have done my bodywork first. The reason I did not as I had never done any before. I now have an immense amount of respect for paint and body guys.

Ron Earp · 03-06-05, 05:44 PM

Well, seeing as how I didn't complete my car I should probably shut up, but I would suggest to get the body work done and out of the way - painted and done.

You'll be FAR more motivated looking at a painted and done body to do all the other work. If you save the body for last you'll have that HUGE job looming over your head, and it is a big job. Esepcially, if like me, you don't know much about body work and hate doing it. I like mechnical things and I like fabrication now, but body stuff just doesn't suit me well I don't think. Or I don't suit it.

The body is a huge issue if you're after a very nice road car so spend the time to get it right.

Ron

Mark Worthington · 03-06-05, 06:06 PM

I would tend to agree with Ron, except I would recommend fitting the suspension so you can roll it in and out of the garage. Another factor is when during the year you can do the body work...unless your shop is heated and you don't mind getting fiberglass dust over eberything then you should try to time things so you do body work outside during the warmer months.

DENIS · 03-06-05, 07:44 PM

I would surely do the body work first.Make sure the chassis is rolling with the weight on it.Fit all the parts first. Doors,front, rear clip and hood.Then do the filling and sanding. Then the panels can be fabricated and fitted.

Jim Downard · 03-07-05, 07:26 AM

Thanks, guys, the suspension came fitted. If I bolt on some wheels it'll roll. I do have a heated shop, 30' x 48'. I keep it at 50 degrees F all winter long, unless I'm working in there, then I up it to a little over 60. Does the car really need to be sitting on the tires for fitting. If it's resting on chassis stands on a level floor, that should be good shouldn't it.

Kalun D · 03-07-05, 02:24 PM

The best way to fit the body is with the car on stands and the springs off the shocks. That way you can run through the entire shock travel and turn the wheels through entire steering and check for clearance.

Don't know if your body already has basic mounts but with a scratch build I found the first parts to fit are the rocker panels. They are a simple shape and are the easiest to locate accurately. Basically the long edges are parallel to the frame/ground and the ends are spaced more or less evenly between the wheels. The next thing to fit is the wheel openings and ground clearance with the front and rear clips. All else fits from there.

Jim Downard · 03-07-05, 03:39 PM

Interesting, I would have thought the spider would have been the first thing, followed by the front and rear clips, then door, and finally the rockers. The spider bolts to the chassis, and the front and rear clips are already mounted to the hinges which are bolted to the frame.

DENIS · 03-07-05, 05:38 PM

I would do the spider and front and rear clips.I would do this to make sure the spacing front to back and left to right are correct. My car came fitted incorrectly and was over to one side too much.One rear wheel was in too far and the other was out.I only noticed it after getting all the parts working good. I then had to refit everything.

Canuk40 · 03-07-05, 09:34 PM

Hi Jim,

My 2c worth: Test fit all the panels on the hinges and latches provided. Pay extra attention to the spyder as it determines all other panel fits. If the spyder is wrong the doors won't fit and the rest won't matter.

If your confident none of the paneling will change the postion of the spyder or any hinge/latch points then you can go ahead and do this before paneling. I'd be tempted to bond the windshield in place as it probably contributes to the shape and structure of the spyder.

Once your satisfied the spyder is in it's final position you can gap the mating surfaces of the doors and front/rear body sections. Be sure to run all panels through their full range of motion making sure no contact or even close arcs of travel occur. The leading edge of the door to the front clip for example.

At this point get the body shaped and primed with all panels fit, latched and with weather seals in place where they affect fits (like doors).

Then, take the panels off the chassis (except the spyder) and store in a safe place. We don't want any suicides over scratched or chipped paint because you tried to build a car around painted panels

.

OK, if your determined to see colour, paint the spyder, even then protect the edges with a few layers of masking tape. You might as well remove all clocks from the garage now! Cheers

Canuk40 · 03-07-05, 09:35 PM

Pic 2, You gotta start somewhere, protect those edges!

Jim Downard · 03-08-05, 07:20 AM

Thanks for the input Ian. You're photo's are giving me some motivation.

Mike Dozier · 03-08-05, 12:49 PM

Well I suppose there has to be a dissenting voice somewhere.
I got my Cobra running and then painted it.
Next car I tried the opposite, and got bogged down over
poor fitting panels and ended up losing momentum.

So for my current project, I'm back to getting it running
first...bodywork second. There's pros/cons to each...
The important thing is not to get discouraged.
Each trip starts with a single step.

MikeD

Keith Hardy · 03-08-05, 01:02 PM

Fascinating answers, and both methods are right depending on your viewpoint. When building up race cars, for me, it was always mechanicals and running gear first and paint last, but I would fit the bodywork up first then take it all off to get at the mechs. Fire it up, get it running, put the body on and then paint. I was always concerned that I would mulla the paint when working on the guts, so I devised a way that bodies could be completely detachable via Zus fasteners and positive locating devices rather than hinged sections as in the GT40. In any event, this method was most desirable in a race car, as body parts could be quickly replaced. (A necessity in GT racing!). Different strokes etc....

dave harris · 03-08-05, 02:53 PM

Ok, one more version on the theme.

first, if you paint and then BUILD, be very careful putting masking tape on fresh paint - especially if you have to leave it there for a long period of time (aka - the build cycle).

Perhaps another method would be to prefit as described above, do all major body work, including fiberglass/Rage Gold/3M high strength repairs etc, then primer fill and finish to 95% smooth - now you can shoot with a coat of URO prime which, if you don't sand, will skin over and protect from dirt/water/grease during the build process.

Then when the build process shows you that hole/patch/modification that just needs to happen, you are doing it in primer.

then when all is done, you can re-guidecoat, final sand, seal and paint.

just my .000002 worth

jimbo · 03-08-05, 07:02 PM

Hey Ian, what is that nice black car in the background? Isn't a 60s or 70s MoPar is it? Let us know...even if it isn't a Ford.
We are currently facing this problem with my car. What we are doing is getting all the panels to fit properly, and then taking them off in order to fit everything into the tub- mind you we are not working with a kit- sometimes I wish we were. When we have assembled all the major pieces onto the tub, then everything comes apart, then the tub gets painted, then all the wiring and plumbing and glass goes in, finally the body goes back on and gets painted, and then the trim guys do the interior. And after that, if there's any $$ left, I fill the tank and drive it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Jim Downard · 03-09-05, 09:01 AM

I like the idea of prepping the body upto final paint stage. Then painting after chassis is done and car is running. Should be a short time from hearing the VROOOOM to actually being able to drive it then. Of Course, that time will be Jan. 1 here in Ohio right in the middle of a freezing rain/snow/blizzard that stays for 4 months. My Cobra running gear was done in 2 months, is wasn't until I got to fitting the body that I lost motivation, that and building a house at the same time. I ended up making a list and actually DOING one items on the list each weekend. The car was then done in no time.