Hot ignition switch

Casey · 01-14-08, 10:09 PM

Hello,

I noticed that my CAV's key switch gets hot when I drive the car with the lights on. I assume there is too much current going through it. I havn't looked at the wiring yet to see how I can remedy this issue.

Has anyone addressed this problem?

Casey

Steve C · 01-14-08, 10:25 PM

Casey,

Heard this was an issue with early CAV's...As I recall need to add a headlight relay but, I'm sure the CAV contingent can help and someone might have a schematic.

Steve P2125

David Briggs · 01-14-08, 11:28 PM

The early CAV has a 15 amp ignition switch with all of the current needed to run the car going thru it. Napa sells a 45 amp switch with a starter lock out (after you try and start it once) that is similar to what is in the car.
I added a seperate #10 wire that runs up to the fuse box and that powers the lights and other non ignition related items.
There are already sufficient relays in the system, but they all pull primary power thru the ignition switch and that is the problem.
Dave

Phil · 01-14-08, 11:38 PM

Casey
You need a good relay in your accessory circuit right at the fuse panel, let the key operate the relay coil, and let the relay handle the feed with your fuses or circuit breakers coming off that main lead. I have seen ignition switches fried from too much being put through them, and some keys hot to the touch from the same.
You should be able to insert the relay in line with little trouble, and if space is a consideration there are some small units that will handle a lot of current.
Hope this helps
Phil

TonyM · 01-14-08, 11:40 PM

Hi,

A simple search on the forums would have revealed the answer, see link below.....

ignition upgrade

Casey · 01-15-08, 12:07 PM

Thanks guys, I'm on it.

Casey

JCoop · 02-01-08, 08:07 AM

Fun with Relays

previously posted link was bad...
Eventually, because I had upgraded to larger/stronger SPAL fans, under full load, the switch was frying when A/C, headlights, then fans would go on. Not only was the switch overloaded, the wires were also too small to handle the amperage requirements of the new fans. Funny thing was, the fan specs said 60+amps when kick-in occurred; yet never blew the 20amp fan fuse. Then the 20 amp fuse did not let enough amps in to initially trip the relay...bigger wire and 30 amp fuse solved the "clicking" problem I had with the fan relay. I have to rethink this because the fix seems to negate the fuse protection objective, inspite of everything working fine now.

Dave Bilyk · 02-01-08, 01:11 PM

This seems a fairly common issue, my car is a DAX40 and I noted that the plastic boots on my ignition switch connectors had partially melted and fused together.
Not sure at the moment what is wired thru the ignition switch, but lights and horn and fans are not. I'm working on a wiring diagram at the moment, so will find out and get a relay in there in a short while.

Suggest everyone be aware of this and check it out.

Dave