Roaring Forties #103

[Jim Dewar]

Soon after birth the car is ready for shipping to the US. Sept.2004

[Jim Dewar]

Another shot being loaded in it's home for three months. You can also find these photos on the new Roaring Forties web site.

[Jim Dewar]

Soon after the wait the fun begins - paneling with stainless [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[Jim Dewar]

I have learned the importance of wearing gloves while working with stainless

[Jim Dewar]

Another

[Ron Earp]

Nice job! Looks like you are doing good work!

[Robert Logan]

Jim,

Excellent work. That stainless steel takes no prisioners. I believe it takes anything up to TWICE as long to clad our cars with the stuff. They look good but all that work and so much sharpening of the drills !!!!!

Good luck with the rest of the build.

Robert

[Kalun D]

"They look good but all that work and so much sharpening of the drills !!!!!"

There's a trick I learned the hard way while drilling 3/8" holes in the 5/16" thick flanges on the 304 stainless headers that I built. Actually I put a question on a metalworking forum to get the answer.

While trying to drill these flanges it was almost impossible with one cobalt bit getting smoked for every 2 holes that would get drilled. Found out it was too much speed and not enough feed.

Most stainless work hardens very quickly. In other words with every rotation of the bit if it's not cutting past the work hardening that each pass of the bit cutting edge causes it becomes harder than the bit.

So instead of the 1000 rpm you would typically use with a 3/8" hole in mild steel you want about 250 rpm and heavy pressure to increase the feed rate. A 1/2 variable speed drill is best when drilling by hand because they generally have more power and slower speeds, although a variable speed 3/8 will work.

Low speed high feed may be problematic with sheet metal because it will catch right at the end of the cut. Clamping helps and if possible it's easier to do in a drill press especially the heavy pressure.

A little cutting fluid and low speed/high feed and bits last almost as long as when drilling mild steel.

[Jim Dewar]

Kalun_D, thanks for the tip, I read your stainless drilling comments on an earlier post and it has saved me many bits.
SHARP BIT, PUSH HARD AND SLOW SPEEDS.

[Peter Olliviere]

Jim,
I to went with stainless and now I never work on the car without gloves I also never go in the garage without shoes, not even on my way to get the paper.

Anyway I found that punching the holes in the stainless was cleaner, faster and easier than drilling. I think 90% percent of all the holes are near the edge of a panel and can be punched. J.C. Whitney has a good set with several anvils for about 75 bucks.

Also Hershal had told me about Fender Punches for the larger holes and that works very well also.

Peter

[Dan Weilacher]

Good to see you get a builders string going Jim.
The car looks GREAT !!! REALLY NICE !! What is that other pretty filly sitting next to her ?
Regarding the stainless, hey you can really say you spent your blood, sweat and tears when talking bout building the GT,, huh,,lol. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Jim Downard]

Also make sure to use liberal amounts of Rapid Tap cutting fluid with those drill bits. Remember this also, if you here a squeal come from the bit, your work just became harder, as mentioned above, that was the sound of the bit passing the metal without cutting. Like Dori would have said in the movies "Finding Nemo", "JUST KEEP PUSHING, JUST KEEP PUSHING"

Jim Downard

[Jim Dewar]

Front paneling is finished - on to the rear

[Dan Weilacher]

Looks super Jim ! Let me know if you have any trouble or need more pics of my aft bulkhead area. I made lots of poster board templates before I cut or folded on those back pieces. Regards and just back from a cruise to Mexico. Ready to hit the GT again. Dan [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Jim Dewar]

Hi Dan,
Thought you must be out for a few days,didn't see you on the forum. Yes, I am making my usual mistakes trying to follow the manual. Spent the weekend installing brake lines and shooting rivets. I am ready to go to my local stainless supplier to purchase more material, not happy with my first rear bulkhead engine panel under the rear window, same as you.Hope your vacation was fun - I'm ready for one.
Regards, Jim

[Jim Dewar]

Judging from the hinge arrangment on my car doors, I think I may want an easy way to touchup door sag.
I found a power steering adjuster from a volvo 240 series will allow very small to wide adjustment by simply turning the 6mm bolt. Drill (1) 8mm hole in the hinge and a weld at the other end and its finished [image]http://p1010094[/image]

[Jim Dewar]

I've been out of sight for several months, just hanging the body and setting gaps. Soon I'll shoot primer and begin the next sanding phase. I decided to finish the body after paneling before going further with other areas.(BIG SANDING DUST)

[rbrunckhorst]

Hello Jim:
Looks like your making progress. I'm interested in your door hinges. Could you provide more detail? Thanks.

Rolf

[Jim Dewar]

Windshield sized and ready for installation.

[Howard Jones]

Would you post closeup pictures of your door gaps at the leading edge of the door and the area around the trailing door edge/ side scoop. I am interested in how much material you added to get good gaps.