GT40 Australia Chassis #64

[Peter D]

Dave, beautiful work on the pipes - you have the beginnings of a micro-business, renting them out to rego aspirants !!

There is a guy here in Oz who has done a twin turbo GT40 - can't seem to find the posts at the moment, but if I do, I'll pass on the link.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.

[Peter D]

Another quick thought - with the stock induction setup, you may have a clearance problem with the rear clip around the induction hole. I seem to remember that there was a set doing the rounds which had some material machined off either the manifold &/or the plenum, & that solved the problem.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.

[Mark Worthington]

Nice work, Dave. You're an inspiration to those of us who are still plugging away.

[Peter D]

Another quick thought - if you have a non-crossover setup like your rego version, you can weld the headers into the collectors. Each half can be installed/removed as a single piece. So you get no leakage of exhaust gases at the collectors prior to the CAT's (a major plus for emissions testing).

With the crossover setup, you have to rely on slip-joints into the collectors so that you can get it all on & off the engine - some pre-CAT leakage, & therefore perhaps some problems with emission testing (as I had). Way to go !

Kind Regards,

Peter D.

[Craig White]

Your rego pipes are beautiful. The rego pipes I made for the last Cobra were a mess, but they did the job.

Originally Posted by delaneyp

There is a guy here in Oz who has done a twin turbo GT40 - can't seem to find the posts at the moment, but if I do, I'll pass on the link.

I heard there was a twin turbo RF in WA. I would love to see photos of a turbo in a GT40 on a windsor engine.

[Dave S]

Thanks for the compliments Guys, It really does make a difference.

Well today I got the front arms cleaned and pressed in new poly bushes.
Also fitted a new set of balljoints from Ecklers aswell. Re- threaded the
steering rack and fitted it. Almost got the lower shock mounts finished
and I am going to make new upper shocks mounts, More like the old style
DRB items welded to the chassis.

Peter - I did consider welding the pipes to the collector, but really they only
have to make one trip around the block for Rego. We don't have
emission testing in WA, so lucky in that regard.

Craig - I have some pics of Cossi's turbo GT40, will post later when I can find
them. I know they are in my computer somewhere.

My holidays end soon, My plan was to get the car rolling so I can wheel
align the car at work on our laser aligner. I have also just about run out parts
to fit to the car.

[Pete.]

Terrific progress Dave, are you working 24 hrs a day on that thing? BTW has your quality control inspector lost a lot of weight lately?

[Dave S]

Pete I've been really enjoying working on the car and it seems to be flying
along at the moment, but I suppose there will be days when nothing works
out. Charlie my dog has life sorted I reckon, Look skinny with loose skin
and eat like A pig every chance you get. Then steal everything you can out
of the shed when no one is looking.
Anyway here is todays progress, I finally got the car on it's wheels
and rolled back and forth. I am just building a rego special at the moment and
it does get me down sometimes as you basically have to build 2 cars.

[Craig White]

You certainly are flying along.

I remember taking a couple of weeks holiday with my brother to help push along a Cobra replica we were building. It's amazing how much you can get accomplished when you are working on it full time.

I always find that mechanical stuff goes quick and you always feel like you are making great progress.

It always gets tough once you get to the more fiddly stuff, especially body work etc. That's when it becomes a long slog.

[Dave S]

You're right Craig
Same with my Clubman, I am going to paint my car after Rego.
I also have been making every bracket and mount so probably
could have saved time by buying all from PR but then that's half
the fun of building a car.

[Craig White]

Originally Posted by albanygt40

could have saved time by buying all from PR but then that's half
the fun of building a car.

Yeah, making brackets is great fun. And you also save money doing them yourself.

Just noticed you haven't cut out the light holes, rear vent holes etc etc. I would have thought you would have done them first, so that you minimise dust etc over the mechanicals. Or are you planning to remove the clips, then do the cutting. As you would know, it takes ages for a garage/shed to recover from the dust this exercise creates, I hope you have somewhere suitable.

[Dave S]

I'll just remove the clips and cut them up outside. I hate fitting and working
with fibreglass .

Craig here's a pic of Cossi's turbo GT40. I've seen it at Wanneroo a few times.

[Craig White]

Thanks, Dave, now that's very interesting.

[Dave S]

Well I hit the wheel aligner at work today and found that the DRB GT40 is
a very well set up car that only required marginal changes to get the wheel
alignment correct. With 0.02 minutes of geometrical driving axis (thrust)
the car should drive as straight as they get and shows that DRB has a very
square jig they build their cars on.

My intial settings to start from are the following
FRONT
Spring rate 200 pounds per inch
Camber 2.2 degrees negative
Caster 4.3 degrees positve
Toe total 1mm toe in

REAR
Spring rate 350 pounds per inch
Camber 1 degree negative
Caster 3.5 degrees positive
Toe total 1mm toe in

Geometrical driving axis 0.02 degrees positive
Setback front .01 degrees /rear 0.03 degrees.
Kingpin inclination +28.01 degrees

I'm hoping the car will have enough caster so the steering wheel will
self centre ok. I have also graphed the bumpsteer patterns for front and
rear over the full suspension travel. Looking forward to driving this beast.

[Craig White]

Dave, mine drives fantastic. Well been a while since I've driven it. They all seem to drive exceptionally well.

My settings
FRONT
Spring rate 180 pounds per inch ??? (I'll have to check, got it written down somewhere)
LH Camber 1.22 degrees negative
RH Camber 1.30 degrees negative
LH Caster 4.00 degrees positve
RH Caster 3.40 degrees positve
Toe total 2.2mm toe in

REAR
Spring rate 300 pounds per inch ??? (I'll have to check, got it written down somewhere)
LH Camber 1.03 degree negative
LH Camber 1.01 degree negative
Toe total 3mm toe in

Mine runs very light springs, like all the early cars did, for road comfort. I want to drop mine a little lower, so will have to put some shorter/heavier springs in. One of the club members just put in 342lb(F) & 457lb(R) in his DRB GT40. It gets regular track use. I won't be going that heavy, although he said he is still happy with comfort on the road.

Corner weights(no driver):

            43.1% 
             !
       20.1% ! 22.8%
       231kg ! 261kg
             !
49.6% -------+------- 50.3%
             !
       338kg ! 313kg
       29.4% ! 27.4%
             !
           56.9%

1148kg total

[Peter D]

Hi Dave - I can't believe how quickly you are progressing. You are up to where I was more than a year into my build - where do you get the energy ? !!

It might be very interesting if you could publish the bump-steer results - there has been a great debate raging on this issue in the RF section (largely theoretical, so some real-world results would be great).

Kind Regards,

Peter D.

[Dave S]

Peter the car is coming along great and basically I have set goals and
try to achieve each job one at a time. That way I find it turns one big
job into many little achievable jobs. I may post post the bumpsteer
results in the chassis section that way my build thread wont get flooded
with suspension questions I may not be able to answer.

[Dave S]

My darn camera has blown up so no update pics, but
have still been making progress. Got an Electric water pump
today . Not sure if I should mount it up front near rad or
put it down the back next to the motor? Hoping for some pics this weekend.