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Old 06-30-04, 07:40 PM   4 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
mike_starling
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Cable shifter questions

Guys,

Am starting to put in the shifter and cables that will eventually activate a G50/52.

The original design of this thing had been a Toyota shifter driving Morse cables back to a plate provided by the vendor. I've not been able to get the vendor to make me one so that end is up in the air and I'll have to look pretty hard to find something that works.

What max range of motion (length of throw) is required of the internal rod in the morse cables in the shifting process? The Morse cables I have only allow about 4" of movement. (They're literally made by Morse.) Is this going to be enough?

Any suggestions for vendors on the transmission end of things?

Thanks,

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Old 07-01-04, 06:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Cable shifter questions

You have plenty of throw with your cables, the end piece that you need to make is fairly straightforward. Just make a piece like the one pictured. If you need measurements I can get them for you tomorrow.
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Old 07-01-04, 06:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Cable shifter questions

1 more pic.
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Old 07-01-04, 07:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Cable shifter questions

Mike,

If you measure the movement of the attach point on the bottom of the shifter and the end of the side arm, I think you will find than neither one moves more than 4". If 4" turns out to not rotate the shift shaft (this is the one that will be limited, if either is) you can change the length of the arms, of what is in essence a bell crank, on the triangular piece of the shift mechanism. I found that the arms were laid out fine: the arm lenghts are just short enough to get the job done while still having some mechanical advantage over the transaxle's shift arm. You can also shorten/lengthen the arm on the shift rod adapter as well.

You need to familiarize yourself with the way the shift mechanism goes into reverse also: I missed this, but luckily there is enough adjustability to make up for my mistake. Looking at the shift rod, from the rear towards the bell housing, using a pair of long pliers, turn the shaft clockwise until it stops, don't force it. That stop point is the detent. Now, using a little more force, go just a bit more, now you are in reverse. I missed that extra bit of movement initially and set the extremes too narrowly.
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FFCobra Discussion Forums: Reverse engagement This thread Refback 03-13-07 08:38 AM
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FFCobra Discussion Forums: Reverse engagement This thread Refback 01-08-07 05:30 PM
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