930 transaxle - reverse

[Alex]

I'm having trouble (maybe) finding reverse on my 930 transaxle.

I can push the shifting rod all the way in/out (1,2), and I can turn it clockwise about 1/4'' or so and push it in/out (3,4).

I've been told, and have read, that reverse in a 930 is turn counterclockwise and push in. But i can't turn the shifting rod counterclockwise (at least past where i think it sits for 1/2). In other words, if i go into 2nd, then push the rod back to neutral, I can't turn counterclockwise, just clockwise

However, what I did notice is that 1st almost seems to have 2 positions. In other words, if i push the lever in, then give it another solid push it goes in further. Interestingly i can mimic the second position with my shifter box - I can go 1/2 back-and-forth without any issues, then when i'm in 1, if i give the handle a strong push up and to the left the transaxle shifting rod goes all the way in (what I'm calling the 2nd "position").

It's kind of hard to describe, but hopefully other 930s understand what I'm saying? I don't have the clutch bled so I don't know if that is reverse or I'm just fully engaging 1st. I have a feeling it's the latter because i can't believe any transaxle would be setup so reverse is hiding right behind first gear almost.

 

[Jac Mac]

There will be detent spring pressure to overcome in the neutral gate as you twist the shaft to get to the reverse slot, you will possibly need to put a lever on the gearshift rod in order to overcome that spring pressure-'just with your hand efn'- Ive read about you and hammers etc.

 

[Jack]

A common modification for the stiff detent pressure on the 930's is to cut 12mm off of the spring and reinstall.

Alex, e-mail w/photos on the way...

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Yep - heavy detent to overcome for reverse --locate neutral and smack it across and into reverse
--and knowing what you can do with hammers I wouldn't go the soft spring route unless you have a reverse lock out :laugh:

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Personally I like the pressure as it prevents me from inadvertently going into reverse instead of 1st. I'm not used to the 930 shift character yet, and having that easy gate movement restricted by the spring, in trying to find 1st gear, has been a big benefit as I start to put some miles on my car.

 

[Alex]

I'm assuming that reverse is then turn counterclockwise and push in? If so, assuming I'm in the proper position to get into reverse, if I pull the shift rod back would the rod move backwards (similar to how it moves backwards into 2/4), or can it only be pushed in at that point?

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

1234 = normal H pattern, R = counter clock and in (forward or left of 1)

 

[Terry Oxandale]

I'm assuming that reverse is then turn counterclockwise and push in? If so, assuming I'm in the proper position to get into reverse, if I pull the shift rod back would the rod move backwards (similar to how it moves backwards into 2/4), or can it only be pushed in at that point?

What Chris said, plus, No, the shift-rod will not go rearward beyond the neutral point (well, perhaps 1 mm or so) with the lever fully counterclockwise...only forward into reverse.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Alex,
What most are saying is what you have to accomplish. My $.02 is that looking at your trans from the back and upside down, the shift rod when in neutral will turn easily for the 1-2 and 3-4 positions. Once you get it in the neutral position add a vice grip to the shaft horizontally and tighten it real good. Turn it counterclockwise as hard as you can. You will feel it give and go to the reverse(neutral) position. Then push the shaft in to the trans and that is reverse. When you pull the shaft outward it will snap into the neutral position(due to the detent spring) at the 1-2 and 3-4 neutral position. This is how I did it before I put the shifter in place. The 2 "bumps" you feel in the 1st gear are normal. Can't explain why but I have the same thing. Once you get your shifter in, and you think the detent spring is too tight you can shorten it a bit.

The rod taped to the setup let me judge where the shift cable coming in from the side should be for the amount of throw I wanted(first iteration).

After I added the oil cooler at the rear all lateral approaches were thrown out. There was no room. I then came at the problem from the bottom. I added a bell crank to transfer the action of the rotation. I also added a support piece for the bell crank and gear selector.

Notice that the top pic is a little different from the one above it. Needed to stiffen it up a bit.
You may also run into the problem I had in that the pattern for the shifter(Toyota) arms is backward for the action of the gear selector shaft. For that I addd what I call a Z link that reversed the action of the cable.

You can see I got real close to the cooler and the trans. Actually had to do a little grinding on the trans so that the throw would be where I wanted it. The main piece on the tail shaft is an old train diesel engine valve guide. Just happened to be the same bore. I ground it to the proper angle and welded a 1/4 20 nut in it for the rod end. Then I drilled a hole through the entire setup and put a threaded rod across it.

Bill

 

[Alex]

I found reverse! i attached the cableshift nose cone, ran a 5'' bolt through the mounting point, beared down on it and it turned counterclockwise and in (wow, that was a bugger!)

Is anybody using the cableshift system with their 930? I'm finding that the top mount ("for-aft") doesn't line up nicely with the cable - like the mount is too far forward. But that would mean I need a longer nose cone.

Mine looks like the one in the stock picture:
930.jpg Photo by lil_italy480 | Photobucket

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

The 930 is simple! -- a single rod shifter is all that is required

 

[Andrew Robertson]

The 930 is simple! -- a single rod shifter is all that is required

Agree with Chris. My approach below: