Can this be done?

I am starting to get serious about the design of the motor to be installed in my replica. Could it be possible to run a car without any accessories on the front of the motor? If I can vent the car and don't need AC, will it be possible to utilize an electric water pump and a wheel driven altenator? I have some pictures somewhere around here that show a car( a T-70 I think)with the altenator being driven by a pulley on the drive flange of the transaxle. I live in the sticks, so I'll never be in traffic.

Is this possible or am getting fatigued by the overtime at work this week?

Brian

Yes it can and has been done. I would still run the alt off the crank with a very large pully on it.

I agree with Gordon. At a stop light your battery will drain faster than a set of car keys falling out of a Lear Jet if you use the Lola set up.

Brian,

Some of the V8 touring cars run their alternators off the prop shaft and this makes more room for dry sump pumps and their power steering. As the 40's usually do not need these an electric coolant pump (not water) would free up the front area completely.

Best wishes,

Robert

Hi Guys, thanks for the inputs. Access to these opinions and ideas continuously proves to be of great value. Up to now, I have been geographically cut off from the GT-40 community, but thanks to Ron, it's like everyone is living just down the street.
Brian

Brian,
My colleague here ( Henry ) says yes, it can be done. They mounted the alternator sat on top of the gearbox on the Tiga Group C car running on the drive shafts. Everything else is else is easily achievable.
A decent battery will achieve the other case when not underway.
DAVE

www.tiltonracing.com makes a setup to drive items off the crankshaft flyweel through a hole in the belhousing. I don't think this would work for a GT40 due to the typically short belhousing.

See there belhousing made for "pump" mounting at: http://www.tiltonracing.com/driveline/ultimategroundk.html


[ January 18, 2003: Message edited by: Gary Gibbs ]

Sorry for the double post. Its too early.
G

[ January 18, 2003: Message edited by: Gary Gibbs ]

Hi Brian

A number of club guys run electric water pumps. I think they locate them behind one of the fuel tanks low down but not too sure on that. What is interesting is their comments on controlling the pump. There are options out there but I think all ended up with the more expensive controllers as a straight forward thermostatic switch failed to do the job satisfactorily. I don't know why but perhaps you could email Dave or Paul.

On the alternator front, what if you adapted a drive shaft adapter at the gear box end and had the alternnator driven off there, ie design a pulley /adapter. In traffic a decent Red Top battery (Red Top 60) will last you long enough at traffic lights. After all Wendy and I run the Lotus on a Red Top 30 (tiddler battery) all day at Goodwood with plenty of starts and restarts of the engine and doing about 150 miles without it failing. No alternator on that car at all.

Of course if you had a line lock on the front brakes, you could do burn outs. Purely to charge the battery of course!

Malcolm

[ January 20, 2003: Message edited by: Malcolm M ]

On the track I agree it's not a problem but on the street on an 80+ day I find that I need all the juice I can get to keep the electric fans spinning and the water temp from boiling over in my 427 in traffic. I agree with Gordon run the largest pulleys you can on both ALT and water pump. Even with these larger pulleys I've reved to 7000 with no problems.

Brian,
Met a guy here in the UK who runs an electric pump made by Davies Craig. If you take the impellor shaft out of your water pump you reduce the horsepower drain, just get a more powerful alternator to ensure you can run the pump. These pumps don't draw much, but they also have a bolt-on feature that allows you to adjust when the pump kicks in so it isn't running all the time. This provides a far better means of cooling. He had actually gone as far to take the thermostat out as well to improve the flow, as the pump didn't kick in anyway until the engine had warmed up.

Hi Brian
My new long rod 306 has the block mounted electric water pump. It pumps 33 gallons per min so should be man enough for the job.
The alternator is one of the small one wire units and is crank driven.
This engine should push 500 bhp and is for track use, it has 48 IDA's roller cam and lifters 5.4" rods Victor Jr heads and runs at 12:1 compression, the block is the four bolt main Ford racing item. I am running an alloy flywheel and belt driven cam drive with vernier adjustment.
Regards
Chris.

Chris, jamming motor! Are the roller lifters hydraulic or mechanical?? I would be real curious to know what sort of RPM you can sustain. I would love to be able to use hyd. rollers, but am thinking that I need to use solid rollers to use the kind of valve springs needed for ~8K+ RPM. Had considered gear driven cam, but the belt drive is definitely the bomb!

Hi Lynn
I went for solid roller lifters and will limit the MSD billet distributor to 7500rpm.
This motor will be mated to ZF gearbox via an ERA bellhousing and 10.5" Ford motorsport clutch. I have fitted the ZF with the BMW M1 CV joint output shafts and will mate these to GKN motorsport CV joints and drive shafts.
I am building a custom space frame with full cage to take one of my light weight replica GT40 Mk 1 bodies.
I will go with GD uprights and bolt on 16" wheels to save unsprung weight. I hope to get the total weight of the car down to 2000 lb's, even I am on a diet.
regards
Chris

Brian, there is a schweeet water pump made here in the us. It is a Stewart unit. I posted some info on it here somewhere. I can't remember if it was in the For Sale section or one of the tech sections.

I am kind of curious why you want no accessories. Are you building your own chassis with things moved foreward? All setups that I am aware of have room for alt., water pump, etc up front.