If not I will have to build my own as John has suggested. Thanks for the diagram John. Not a good option right now as time is at a premium and I've no experience at doing that sort of thing. Needs must of course......
Thanks for the replies guys. I can't get an 8920 in good ol' Godzone, so need some help please!
I have had a look at the diagram in Johns link and have checked my friendly local electronics store catalogue and have found a 13K, .5 watt resistor which John suggests will replace the two 24.7K wired in parallel. So far so good.
With regard to the diodes it shows two 400V 3A diodes in series. John suggests p/n 1N4007. In my local catalogue, that # refers to a bulk pack of four 1000V 1A diodes. There is a listing for a 400V 3A under p/n 1N5404. I presume I need two of the latter?
The Radio Shack #s from the diagram don't seem to be referenced here.
As you can tell I am a total bunny at this, but I'm sure I will have learnt a lot by the time the smoke clears......
With regard to all this fancy electrical stuff, are all diodes/resistors with the same values created equal? Or are some not suited to vibration or automotive use, or are some better quality than others?
And lastly, querying the diagram, John said use the MSD tach output instead of the coil -ve. Easy. But the other end shown going to a E.S.A. module I presume simply goes to the tach? Not somewhere else? In other words this whole thing just gets inserted into the signal wire to the tach.
With regard to Mike's comment about destroying the unit if the kill switch is employed with the motor running. The scrutineers will check that the kill switch
DOES stop a running motor so I would be best to have this unit accessible and easily unplugged for the purposes of the test. At other times just ensure I stop the motor before isolating the power.
I must admit, this project has been/still is a massive learning exercise.....I am also amazed that a unit that can be purchased for about $US60 can be replaced by a handful of gizmos costing less than $NZ2