WHAT WOULD RECOMMEND ROR A STREET 302?
- Thread starter chip
- Start date
Chip I hate to refer you to another web site, but I am a longtime member of the Corral, a late-model Mustang enthusiast web site. Instead of me just recommending one specific builder or brand surf over to www.corral.net/forums and click on the Windsor forum and you will find a large collection of experts with lots of experience with small block Ford engines. We are heavily into drag racing as our motorsport of choice but you will find a lot of good ideas on what to build.
Just to get you started I'd look into a 331 stroker kit for additional displacement with reliability. Forged internals (crank, rods, pistons) are always good, especially if you might consider a power adder somewhere down the road. Finally, there are literally dozens of cylinder heads available in both aluminum and cast iron. Just choose the ones that fit your application and budget.
Good luck, and have fun!
Just to get you started I'd look into a 331 stroker kit for additional displacement with reliability. Forged internals (crank, rods, pistons) are always good, especially if you might consider a power adder somewhere down the road. Finally, there are literally dozens of cylinder heads available in both aluminum and cast iron. Just choose the ones that fit your application and budget.
Good luck, and have fun!
As always, that depends on how much you want to spend.
Do you have the money to spend on titanium valves and exotic heads or are you thinking cast iron and steel?
If it were me (and it is...but a 351 instead of a 302) I'd look at the following to get you started on the intake side of things:
Heads:
The GT-40P cylinder head (flows about 190 stock) and with larger valves (1.84I, 1.48E stock size) and some mild porting (mostly just unshrouding and enlarging below the seat to match the larger valves) will breath well enough to get you into the 400+ horsepower range and not be too expensive as compared to aluminum. Put some undercut swirl polished valves (PAW sells a nice valve for about $11.50 each) in size 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust and you're good to go.
If you want aluminum, then the Twisted Wedge heads make some power, but it is my understanding that the valve train should be upgraded (get the bare heads and buy the rest yourself). The AFR heads seem to wrok well on the 302 also. The Ford aluminum isn't quite as good.
Intake:
Again, it depends but this time if you are going to go fuel injected or not. If so, there are plenty or articles around on the net to get you started. If not, then I like the Perfromer RPM for street use. Good (or so Edelbrock says) to a 6500 RPM power range. If a higher revving engine is your goal, then the Torker intake is nice or maybe a Stealth.
Cam:
Well, again it depends on how much money you plan to spend and what RPM range you want to make power in (gearing comes into play). If going low $, then I'd go with a hydraulic cam and strongly look at variable duration lifters if you plan to run too much cam. If more high $, then I'd convert to a hyraulic roller. My self, I really like the Comp Cams 290 retrofit (hydraulic to hydraulic roller) cam, but this is probably a bit too much for a 302 on the street.
Summit is a good source as is PAW (what Summit doesn't list they can usually get, but PAW will already have it in their book).
Good luck.
[ February 22, 2002: Message edited by: Darrin ]
Do you have the money to spend on titanium valves and exotic heads or are you thinking cast iron and steel?
If it were me (and it is...but a 351 instead of a 302) I'd look at the following to get you started on the intake side of things:
Heads:
The GT-40P cylinder head (flows about 190 stock) and with larger valves (1.84I, 1.48E stock size) and some mild porting (mostly just unshrouding and enlarging below the seat to match the larger valves) will breath well enough to get you into the 400+ horsepower range and not be too expensive as compared to aluminum. Put some undercut swirl polished valves (PAW sells a nice valve for about $11.50 each) in size 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust and you're good to go.
If you want aluminum, then the Twisted Wedge heads make some power, but it is my understanding that the valve train should be upgraded (get the bare heads and buy the rest yourself). The AFR heads seem to wrok well on the 302 also. The Ford aluminum isn't quite as good.
Intake:
Again, it depends but this time if you are going to go fuel injected or not. If so, there are plenty or articles around on the net to get you started. If not, then I like the Perfromer RPM for street use. Good (or so Edelbrock says) to a 6500 RPM power range. If a higher revving engine is your goal, then the Torker intake is nice or maybe a Stealth.
Cam:
Well, again it depends on how much money you plan to spend and what RPM range you want to make power in (gearing comes into play). If going low $, then I'd go with a hydraulic cam and strongly look at variable duration lifters if you plan to run too much cam. If more high $, then I'd convert to a hyraulic roller. My self, I really like the Comp Cams 290 retrofit (hydraulic to hydraulic roller) cam, but this is probably a bit too much for a 302 on the street.
Summit is a good source as is PAW (what Summit doesn't list they can usually get, but PAW will already have it in their book).
Good luck.
[ February 22, 2002: Message edited by: Darrin ]
Robert Logan
Defunct Manufactuer - Old RF Company
Chip,
I have used Gordon Levy's 342 and 306 engines in two of my cars and both are excellent. There was a reduction in horsepower as the engines crossed the oceans but this was due to the dyno calcs used by Gordon. The reduction were minimal but the engines have performed extremely well.
I must claim a proffesional affiliation with Gordon but if this affiliation did not exist I would still recommend his engines. His cars have constantly performed well and to his credit he is happy to push the envelope to get every last HP out of the engine.
I would recommend 320 - 340 HP for a road car and this is what we use and I would recommend somewhere between 400 and 440 HP for a interesting not every day road car and finally I am tared with the same brush as most on this site are in that "To much horse power in NEVER enough". Being honest , we have a car with almost 500 HP and that car does get your attention !!!!!!!!
Best wishes,
Robert
I have used Gordon Levy's 342 and 306 engines in two of my cars and both are excellent. There was a reduction in horsepower as the engines crossed the oceans but this was due to the dyno calcs used by Gordon. The reduction were minimal but the engines have performed extremely well.
I must claim a proffesional affiliation with Gordon but if this affiliation did not exist I would still recommend his engines. His cars have constantly performed well and to his credit he is happy to push the envelope to get every last HP out of the engine.
I would recommend 320 - 340 HP for a road car and this is what we use and I would recommend somewhere between 400 and 440 HP for a interesting not every day road car and finally I am tared with the same brush as most on this site are in that "To much horse power in NEVER enough". Being honest , we have a car with almost 500 HP and that car does get your attention !!!!!!!!
Best wishes,
Robert
Ron Earp
Admin
I've agree with all of the above. I'd get a 302 2 bolt block, put all forged internals in it, and make it a 342 or your favorite stroker with the oil control ring out of the piston wrist pin.
After that I'd:
Use a main girdle
Use AFR 185 heads for low and midrange
Use Victor Jr's for top end, CNC port
CR at 10.5 or 11 to 1 - Shave heads to get this. You can get away with this easily on pump with aluminum heads.
1.6 RRs
Cam with valve lift around 0.5XX with reasonable duration.
If 4bbl carb I'd use a Demon, run a dual plane for lots of torque or a single plane for hp. Single plane is fine in the 40 with short gears and light weight.
For looks and fun I'd run Webers or one of the Weber-like FI systems from RF and others.
Probably end up around 425 crank hp I'd imagine with such a thing. Should be plenty!
R
After that I'd:
Use a main girdle
Use AFR 185 heads for low and midrange
Use Victor Jr's for top end, CNC port
CR at 10.5 or 11 to 1 - Shave heads to get this. You can get away with this easily on pump with aluminum heads.
1.6 RRs
Cam with valve lift around 0.5XX with reasonable duration.
If 4bbl carb I'd use a Demon, run a dual plane for lots of torque or a single plane for hp. Single plane is fine in the 40 with short gears and light weight.
For looks and fun I'd run Webers or one of the Weber-like FI systems from RF and others.
Probably end up around 425 crank hp I'd imagine with such a thing. Should be plenty!
R
Neal
Lifetime Supporter
I've built a number of 302 and 347 motors. a 302 w/400HP is easily achievable using pump gas. The last motor I did was a 302 w/ AFR 185cc heads, 10:1 compression, a Comp Cams roller cam, Victor Jr. manifold and a 650cfm Demon carb. Dynoed at 382 rwhp.
Gordon Levy has far more experience with these motors and may have some ideas for you.
Gordon Levy has far more experience with these motors and may have some ideas for you.
Chip
Have you considered going with a crate engine. There are some good ones out there from Ford to Eldebrock to Richard Maskin at Dart. Then you cut your choices down to how much H.P., torque, and type of carburation. This eliminates a lot of the work unless you just want to do it.
Bill
Have you considered going with a crate engine. There are some good ones out there from Ford to Eldebrock to Richard Maskin at Dart. Then you cut your choices down to how much H.P., torque, and type of carburation. This eliminates a lot of the work unless you just want to do it.
Bill
Gordon_ I stand corrected. NEVER trust my typing= "Hunt and Peck" Should have NEVER dropped out of high school typing (really!) And the sad thing of it is, I had just received my Master's degree and WENT BACK and started a HIGH SCHOOL evening class in typing. Got frustrated and left-and that was 30 years ago! cb
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Still a terrific price, hell a Ford crate motor is $3500 and you have to take all this stuff off of it...
Chip, That is $3900 plus shipping.
Some other sources to check out:
www.Summitracing.com
347 inch stroker kit for 5.0 Ford $1,479.95
www.Fordracing.com/performanceparts
302 320 HP aluminum head long block $3,195
351W 385 HP aluminum head long block $5,200
351W based 392 inch aluminum head long block assembly $6,295 or $2,995 short block w/o cam
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
www.Summitracing.com
347 inch stroker kit for 5.0 Ford $1,479.95
www.Fordracing.com/performanceparts
302 320 HP aluminum head long block $3,195
351W 385 HP aluminum head long block $5,200
351W based 392 inch aluminum head long block assembly $6,295 or $2,995 short block w/o cam
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: BlueOvalBlood ]
I'd also have a look at DSS Racing.
Good selection of kits, shortblocks, and
longblocks, with 306s, 331s and 347s amongst
others.
http://www.dssracing.com
Ian
Good selection of kits, shortblocks, and
longblocks, with 306s, 331s and 347s amongst
others.
http://www.dssracing.com
Ian
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