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The SLC Clubhouse RCR SLC Build Logs and Technical Questions

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Old 4th April 2009, 08:55 PM   #61
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Howard, mine will be out the back (high) with mufflers. Fran's car has side exhaust with headers. Ernie's were out the back (high) like Craig's recently completed car.

For you, The side exhaust would be the likely option. IMO

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Old 6th April 2009, 09:00 AM   #62
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Personally I really like the side exit exhaust....love the raw gutteral sound but for dB sensitive areas it may not be quite as usable...

Looking good Howard.....

I know kit car mag is hot to come by and do a feature on your car....
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Old 8th April 2009, 11:10 AM   #63
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Quote:
Originally Posted by molleur View Post
Howard, mine will be out the back (high) with mufflers. Fran's car has side exhaust with headers. Ernie's were out the back (high) like Craig's recently completed car.

For you, The side exhaust would be the likely option. IMO

Jack...

completed??????
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Old 8th April 2009, 04:16 PM   #64
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

RCR recently completed a turnkey SL-C for Craig. All done excepting a couple of UK specific items to get thru SVA.
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Old 10th April 2009, 01:12 AM   #65
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

My half-shafts arrived and so I put them in. They fit fine. So now it looks like there is plenty of room to run the exhaust out the back. I talked to Fran we went over a couple of ideas. We'll see how the exhaust comes out. I am looking forward to seeing the results.

I was also having a look at the diffuser. I think it wouldn't hurt to add another element to the center of the assembly. It's not welded in yet, it might take me a while to get that done. Does anybody have any thoughts. Anyway here's some pictures.
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SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0661-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0659-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0660-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0662-jpg  
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Old 14th April 2009, 07:47 PM   #66
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

I went and visited Rob Mesa and had a look at his car. It is really coming along. He has really done a lot of bodywork to the rear hips to fit in those HUGE tires and wheels. Looks good Rob.

While I was there we did a little welding job on my car, or at least part of it. Anybody see it? Thanks buddy good work.

You will also see that I changed the way the rear diffuser mounts. Because of the rear anti roll bar location removing the mounting bolts for the diffuser requires partial removal of the bar to access them. Now I have made some mounts that allow the diffuser to be removed without disturbing the anti roll bar. Simple but effective.
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SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0680-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0682-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0681-jpg  
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Old 14th April 2009, 08:23 PM   #67
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Looks really good Howard!

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Old 14th April 2009, 10:20 PM   #68
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

awesome...just awesome.
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Old 14th April 2009, 11:00 PM   #69
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

That third element is going to give you SO much more downforce you will be in the same boat as the "cheater" F1 cars . Hope you plan on working your neck muscles before climbing in that G-machine :-)

Looks cool.
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Old 15th April 2009, 12:22 AM   #70
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Jones View Post
While I was there we did a little welding job on my car, or at least part of it. Anybody see it? Thanks buddy good work.

You will also see that I changed the way the rear diffuser mounts. Because of the rear anti roll bar location removing the mounting bolts for the diffuser requires partial removal of the bar to access them. Now I have made some mounts that allow the diffuser to be removed without disturbing the anti roll bar. Simple but effective.
Howard - Very nice modifications! I particularly like the third center/lower addition to the diffuser. It looks like Rob has some aluminum welding skills! So, if I am understanding the change you made to the diffuser mount it looks like you bolted some aluminum extensions on to move the diffuser back away from the anti roll bar - is that correct? I also have the anti roll bars but haven't had a chance to start assembly yet.

Regards,
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Old 15th April 2009, 11:35 AM   #71
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

What I did was cut off the lower mounting tabs. The ones that have the two bolts going through them on each side and then through the chassis member. I also trimmed the vertical fences at the point they go over the chassis because they make it difficult to remove the diffuser also. The anti-roll bar is located directly above the bolts at the top so they cannot be removed without moving the roll-bar. It isn't entirely necessary to remove the bolts to take off the diffuser but leaving them tight and making a extended mounting tab to bolt the diffuser to makes it easier for me. Now the diffuser can be removed without doing anything other than unbolting it and lifting it straight up.

If you have one with a rear anti-roll bar and look at this you will see what I mean.

Not much of a big deal, just the kind of minor detail change I tend to make as I go along.

I pretty much did the additional horizontal element because I could and I think it looks better that way. It also is possible because I have a Porsche box. The Ricardo in Bobs car is much bigger at the rear and the additional element would not be possible.

Performance wise I don't believe that I am accomplished enough of a driver to tell the difference.

Last edited by Howard Jones; 15th April 2009 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 26th April 2009, 03:34 PM   #72
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

I have been busy mounting the front splitter. This took a little while because there are so many things that effect it's location. I needed to do a quicky front end alignment so that I could locate the front tires. As it turned out the body as mounted by Fran was so close to dead on I just left it as is. It did take me a half of a day to measure it all all out however. Good to within a 1/8" all around. This is very important because the trailing edge of the splitter must line up with the lower body work at the wheel opening.

I then turned to the method I chose to suspend the splitter. You can't just leave it flapping in the breeze so I looked at so pictures I have of a couple of full bodied sports prototypes. They used quite a lot of LR/RR rod-ends to hang things so I thought this was a good idea.

Then I began looking at how to mount them and after taking the front bodywork on and off about a dozen times I came to the solution you see here. The problem is the wheel well arches are in the the way to just hang the top mounting points around the perimeter at the top. So I did what you see here and ran them forward from a location that does not interfere at the top rear.

The cross brace at the radiator opening's credit goes to Rob. Good idea Rob. I made mine out of 4130 CM. The down brace tubing is 4130 also. I picked a wall thickness and ID that was correct for tapping threads into.

Underneath I added some 1/8 X 1" aluminum to stiffen up the through mounting bolts. Fiberglass likes to have a nice big surface area to back up bolts going through it. Prevents cracks.

The hardware is mostly home made. I did find the double shear tabs in the lefthander catalog but I needed to drill out all of the holes to suit and bend them to accommodate the 1/4" rod-ends.

All in all it came out pretty nice. Very strong but light. I think the weakest point will be the fiberglass splitter itself. Not much to do about that except being careful not to hit anything.
Attached Thumbnails
SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0683-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0684-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0685-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0686-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0690-jpg  

SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0691-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0688-jpg   SLC 24 Howard Jones-hpim0692-jpg  
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Old 26th April 2009, 03:59 PM   #73
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Very Nice job Howard!
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Old 26th April 2009, 04:43 PM   #74
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Looking good Howard, my splitter struts were made almost the same method using rod ends. My crossbar is identical. Keep up the super job on the Superlite!
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Old 26th April 2009, 05:27 PM   #75
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

I found the front of my car to be within .125 of center too, after much measuring I didnt mess with mine either. Can't claim the crossbar idea, I think Fran used it. Nice work with the multible side support for the splitter, that is a good thing. Also like the mounting brackets to the splitter, where did you get those? Thinking those bolts sticking out the bottom will be a little shorter once actual use begins!
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Old 26th April 2009, 07:54 PM   #76
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Multi Possition brackets made by ARP bodies. Call Lefthander Chassis 1-800-389-9999 or Lefthander Chassis - The Best Drive The Best

4 per packet, $7.99 per packet, Part number 202-50101
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Old 3rd May 2009, 12:31 PM   #77
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

I was looking at the pictures in my camera so that I could delete them after previously transferring most of them to the computer and I found these. These are the gearbox adapter mounts that I made so that I could place the oil filter in the stock Chevy position. The standard mounts would have required using a remote filter fixture and spacers between the gearbox adapter and Frans mount because they come off the chassis straight out instead of rearward. I made the other side just to match so to speak. The original parts would have worked fine. I really don't like spacers or slots in things.

They are made of 1/4" and 1/8" steel plate. Battleship style. I don't like to worry about things like this breaking.
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Last edited by Howard Jones; 3rd May 2009 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 3rd May 2009, 01:15 PM   #78
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Howard,

do you have room/material to include a third bolt into the lower rail...to help prevent a cantilever motion?...otherwise a neat little mod for the "Old school SBC"...
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Old 3rd May 2009, 01:57 PM   #79
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

That's the question I had at the time. My first concern is always drilling holes into important chassis components but in this case I think it would be OK. I was thinking of a flat tab at the bottom of the "new mount" over to chassis rail with a bolt through it and the chassis rail. I will do this the next time I have this area apart.

As I am online here's some pictures of the front brakes. All on and sorted out. They are not as sexy at the big'ins on the "other white car" but I believe they will do just fine for my use.

A couple of things were necessary as they always are when installing brakes. Because I am using a solid mount caliper, in this case Wilwoods, I believe it is very important to as near as possible center the rotor to the caliper. These rotors are a upgrade rotor for a Corvette application I believe. Corvette's use a floating caliper and the rotors are slightly thicker on one side in relation to the other. Floating calipers tend to wear one side of the rotor (inboard) more than the other.

This results in a very slight misalignment of the caliper to rotor center-line. I don't think that on a streetcar it would be any problem at all but I did start out with a similar issue with the brakes on my GT40 and the fix was a dead on center line rotor/caliper orientation. This time I just did it right the first time.

You can see a .040 shim behind the caliper adapter plate in the pictures. This got the caliper as close to dead on as I could without a custom thickness shim. Then I found that the wheel was too close to the caliper for my liking so I made some 1/8" wheel spacers. Now all is well and everything is in alignment with proper clearances. I should say that the standard setup fit fine. It's just that I am a Virgo.........and well if you are one you understand.

The thing I did change however was the way the caliper is mounted to the adapter. The "standard" way is with two bolts completely through the caliper and the adapter with nuts between the rotor and the adapter plate.

My GT40 does it another way and I like that better. The adapter is taped and threaded and the bolt holding on the caliper is simply screwed into it after going through the caliper ears. This is what I did on my car. I taped and threaded the adapter holes and drilled out the calipers from .45 to .5 so that I could use 1/2 X 20 bolts. The adapters are 3/8" plate so there is plenty of thread depth for now. I intend to add another 3/16" to the back of the plate to increase the thread depth when I get back to the welder at work later.
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Last edited by Howard Jones; 3rd May 2009 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 3rd May 2009, 02:32 PM   #80
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Re: SLC 24 Howard Jones

Howard,

I have found variations in the rotor thickness from one supplier to another...and with so many vendors going out of business its a challenge to stay on top of suppliers and their QC...

1mm/0.04" is acceptable as a production component in most arenas...but not for you Virgos...

As you have found out when you make one change there is always a knock on effect to another component....

The Big Un's have a much tighter tolerance on their specs and makes my job easier...

Make sure you lock wire those mounting bolts...
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