Dean's SLC build thread - Page 4

Justin · 6th February 2012, 11:10 PM

I like the location of the reservoirs. Its a simple, no non-sense, solution.

How tall are you? I'm curious because I'm 6'5" and one day want an SLC. But I'm not sure I'd fit with a helmet on.

Thanks and keep up the great write up.

Dean Lampe · 6th February 2012, 11:17 PM

I'm about 6'3, 210. I think you would be fine. The seat will lay back even further and I could push the pedals further down to the point I can barely reach them.

Erik · 7th February 2012, 07:47 PM

Hey Dean sorry for getting back so late. But according to google I am 2.5 hours from Road America.

Mesa · 7th February 2012, 07:55 PM

Wake up Dean!
The steering column looks suspiciously weak, don't want any Ayrton Senna failures ya know.

Otherwise you are moving right along with a high grade track build, great to follow along.
Thanks for the effort.

Doug Sainlar · 8th February 2012, 09:25 AM

Dean, I absolutely love your build threads, they are quite informational and inspirational at the same time.

I have a small request...one of the things I always appreciate about your builds is that you have a "vision" before you start and you seem to manage to stick to it. I am on the fence between a 40 and the SLC and your comment regarding the SLC being much easier to build than the 40 is intriguing.

My request is for some information regarding extra cost items you had to buy to finish the kit....not only a list of those items, but also their cost. I know that every build has some individualization added by the builder, but your vision for this SLC seems to be to finish it with as little added componentry as possible and that is how I would proceed, too.

Not now....more like at the end of the build.....I'll remind you as the build nears completion, but thought I ought to mention this little request now so that if you agree to it you'll have time to start making your own notations as you proceed. No worries about drivetrain, that's an individual choice, just the materials needed to complete the body/chassis build that aren't included in the kit.

For me, the big issue is always the fabrication. I don't have metal working skills or tools, so the "most complete" kit always attracts me the most. Your build is interesting b/c of the "bare-bones" approach you have taken!

Thanks for considering this small request, Dean!

Cheers!

Doug

Dean Lampe · 8th February 2012, 10:39 AM

Doug,

That is a fair request. I keep very accurate records on my build and I will be happy to share that information with you at the end. I really don't see much added expense with this build but I will list it all out in the end. I keep a pretty good stash of hardware but other than that, I am buying all new stuff for this build. One thing I have learned is that Fran can provide a lot of the stuff you will need. The trick is to know what you will need in order to ask him to add it to your order. I'll try to help with that too.

Alex · 8th February 2012, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mesa

Wake up Dean!
The steering column looks suspiciously weak,

That's what I was wondering as well? is that safe to do?

FYI, Fran has a solid DD shaft & mounting bracket (requires some ingenuity to make it fit though) solution - it's what I'm using

Dean Lampe · 8th February 2012, 07:46 PM

Engine parts on the kitchen counter top!

Yeah, Lisa's at a meeting tonight but I did take a picture of the scene just to prove I still have the power! (I have taken them to the garage already. Can't risk her coming home early.)

Anyway, these are a great set of LS7 manifolds that look like new take offs. This is a better manifold for side exhaust than the standard LS3 units. I think they flow better too. I had to pay $155 to the door but I thought that was fair.

Cam · 8th February 2012, 08:26 PM

Wow, they look nice on the granite! I hear Chevy has millions of $ invested into those manifolds. Supposed to perform similar to headers. will you fabricate the collectors?
$209 on ebay rigth now, below. Might be a time saver?

C6 Corvette Z06 Exhaust Mid - Pipe OEM | eBay

Yos · 9th February 2012, 04:58 PM

Good thing granite is a sanitary surface. Wouldn't want to get any dirt or germs on those things...

Are the collector studs in a totally different pattern for the driver/pass sides, or is it just an optical confusion?

Stefan Tuineag · 9th February 2012, 05:32 PM

Dean,

what engine you will use? Can you tell me how much you paid for the gearbox?

Good luck,
Stefan

Mark Hamstra · 9th February 2012, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slc4yos

Are the collector studs in a totally different pattern for the driver/pass sides, or is it just an optical confusion?

Ummm... you do realize that in the photo one of the manifolds is inverted relative to the other, don't you? The patterns look to be mirror images to me.

Dean Lampe · 10th February 2012, 07:42 PM

The gear box was a deal that Fran was able to put together for me. Because it's used, the price will vary depending on availability. I think about $10,000 plus $2000 for a clutch. I think the gearbox is about $20,000 new from what I've seen. I am going to put it behind the LS3 480hp engine.

The exhaust flanges are supplied by Fran. I would hate to have to find them and build the exhaust on my own.

Dean Lampe · 10th February 2012, 07:49 PM

You all know this is a track car so I asked Fran to send me some more cage pieces to give it just a little more strength if I'm in a high speed barrel roll through the grass.

I tacked the front bar and dash bar in place in the car.

My son and I took the cage out of the car and went to my "dirty" garage to add the rear bars and finish the welds.

Here is the naked shell, although there is still more that could be removed.

If you think there needs to be another bar added somewhere, now is the time to talk about. What do you guys think?

Erik · 11th February 2012, 01:25 PM

Hey dean I have never built a roll cage. But I do know about structural support thanks to my dad. I would put two maybe three bars between the roof bars. I would also put a petty bar from the passanger side roof bar at were it joins at the rear hoop. Then I would weld it as close to possible to were the roll cage meets the chassie on the passenger side. I might also do a x member on the passanger side door bar. I would attatch it from the front hoop to the door bar. Then do the same for the rear hoop to the door bar. If you can I would also do that on the drivers side. Also don't forget the gussets.

Cam · 11th February 2012, 02:16 PM

If you think there needs to be another bar added somewhere, now is the time to talk about. What do you guys think?

Dean, the 01 car did a nice job of surroundning the drivers helmet. Might make it a bit of a limbo gettin in tho...

Dean Lampe · 11th February 2012, 05:18 PM

I have sat in the 01 car and it is a little bit of a deal getting in and out. I didn't want the full cage for the track day car. I have been in the shop today working on the steering mount and looking at the cage and really trying to evaluate how much is enough. I think its good for a amateur race car. I say that because the GT40 looked like this.

The top side bars are removable. This car was in a massive accident. It rolled twice in the air before rolling 2 1/2 times on the ground before coming to rest upside down. My buddy walked away with bruises where the seat belts held him. The cage did such a great job of protecting him and the car that it is completely rebuilt and ready for the track in the spring. I think the SLC cage is already stronger than the one in the picture.

I really think that if I had a roll over, the cage would protect me. Those are some thick wall tubes. I was surprised at how heavy the cage is when I'm moving it around in the garage.

Howard Jones · 12th February 2012, 09:12 PM

The only one that you don't have in your car that is mine is this one. I like your door bars better than mine but then mine was the first full cage car.

Dave · 13th February 2012, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dlampe

If you think there needs to be another bar added somewhere, now is the time to talk about. What do you guys think?

You could gusset the corners between the front and rear hoops and lengthwise roof bars. You could also add a bar (or two) running side-to-side (perpindicular) in the middle of the roofbars and perhaps even skip weld a steel sheet along its length.

The rear hoop could nave another attachment point at the bottom center like mine and Howards.

I need some of those newer door bars you guys have. I have the older style. Not sure which would be more effective protection in a worst case scenario, but installation without hacking up the door sure is a bonus.

Dave · 13th February 2012, 11:53 AM

Guess I should have read the rest of the replies before I posted mine, but may have been worth repeating.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howard Jones

The only one that you don't have in your car that is mine is this one. I like your door bars better than mine but then mine was the first full cage car.

Howard, I welded in a 2x2x2 under that center bars' attachment point to strengthen that point. Probably irrelevant but it makes me feel better.