Clutch bleed help...?

[Eric McClellan]

I feel like i'm getting nowhere with this stupid clutch slave.

I tried a hand vacuum pump, a power pump but just ended up frustrating myself because I couldn't get a good seal.

Is there a way to 2-man bleed these things since it has to be off the car to get all the air out?

Seriously, pulling my hair out.

Also, odd happenstance wondering if anyone could provide a clue... I have the car in neutral yet the tires still want to rotate and move. Put it in gear and BAM it takes off like a rocket, pull it out of gear and it still moves at maybe 1-2mph...

Christ, I think I just need some sleep.

 

[Eric McClellan]

Sorry, i should have mentioned it's G50 transmission.

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Assuming your trans is inverted ? then the slave will be upside down , ie the bleed nipple downside --the quick solution is to bench bleed the the slave the right way up
Remove slave from g'box leave feed line attached and using a plate and 2 bolts against the push rod - position the slave with the bleeder up and then do your bleed process , when satisfied replace slave on g'box and go
If that doesn't work then there is some other issue.
Need more info about the parts used and your assy procedure

 

[Eric McClellan]

The slave nipple is facing upwards thankfully. I think it's a stock porsche part, I got the part # from Fran, I'm confident it's the correct piece.

 

[Alex]

clutch pieces seized/rusted together?

 

[Randy V]

DRIP!

Fill the master cylinder reservoir, leave the cap loose. Crack the bleeder valve with a pan underneath it, tap (with small hammer or even a wrench) the slave cylinder a few times to knock bubbles loose and go to dinner, then bed.. Come back in the morning, close the valve, fill the master and check the pedal..

I cannot tell you how many times I've done it this way on hydraulic clutches that just refused to bleed properly...

 

[Eric McClellan]

clutch pieces seized/rusted together?

All brand new!

DRIP!

Fill the master cylinder reservoir, leave the cap loose. Crack the bleeder valve with a pan underneath it, tap (with small hammer or even a wrench) the slave cylinder a few times to knock bubbles loose and go to dinner, then bed.. Come back in the morning, close the valve, fill the master and check the pedal..

I cannot tell you how many times I've done it this way on hydraulic clutches that just refused to bleed properly...

I would be willing to do this.... I'm getting to that point :laugh:

 

[Alex]

All brand new!



I would be willing to do this.... I'm getting to that point :laugh:

newness of parts doesn't matter; if clutch stuff sits long enough it can seize together and you have to break it loose. it did on my cobra.

gravity bleeding like randy suggested works really well. just takes a while.

 

[Eric McClellan]

I cracked the bleeder and topped it off to the tip top.

I cracked open an adult beverage and settled in for the night.

 

[Eric McClellan]

Holy cow. Glad I checked. It was down to almost empty in under half an hour. Interesting.

 

[P Roth]

Also, odd happenstance wondering if anyone could provide a clue... I have the car in neutral yet the tires still want to rotate and move. Put it in gear and BAM it takes off like a rocket, pull it out of gear and it still moves at maybe 1-2mph....

I am assuming you mean while its on jacks. Fairly normal for the axles to rotate in neutral, its just the friction plate kissing the flywheel or pressure plate. If the car is moving on the ground and you need to hold it against the brakes, then the clutch is not disengaging enough.

 

[Eric McClellan]

Thanks everyone.

I verified fork movement. However, the pedal is VERY hard to get movement out of... Suggestions?

After I get a few other things sorted out, I will start it up again and check to see if it's pushing the clutch in while running

 

[Randy V]

Eric, a couple things to check ---
Is there tension on that slave cylinder while at rest?
Does the master cylinder fully release to the home position when you remove all pressure from the pedal?

In case you're wondering - both need to be fully in their home positions with the release of pressure. I have seen some slave cylinders that have needed to be shimmed away from their mounts in order for this to happen.

Sorry that the gravity bleeding didn't work out - it normally does for me.

 

[Eric McClellan]

The gravity bleed it did work some. Took some of the air out but not all of it.

The slave does need to be pushed in a bit, not hard but some when being bolted in.

Maybe a shim might be in order to get the slave back into original position??

 

[Randy V]

Eric, a couple things to check ---
Is there tension on that slave cylinder while at rest?
Does the master cylinder fully release to the home position when you remove all pressure from the pedal?

In case you're wondering - both need to be fully in their home positions with the release of pressure. I have seen some slave cylinders that have needed to be shimmed away from their mounts in order for this to happen.

Sorry that the gravity bleeding didn't work out - it normally does for me.

What I meant to say was I have seen MASTER cylinders that needed to be shimmed..
The SLAVE Cylinder should be compressed quite a ways when the clutch is released.. Slave piston position should be inverse of the master piston position..

Sorry - I guess I needed either more coffee or more sleep...

 

[Randy V]

Okay.... So what was the secret?

 

[Eric McClellan]

I thought I had it... I have fork movement but the clutch will not disengage. Its frustrating me to no end.

 

[Randy V]

PM coming