How many times did you remove engine?

I'm getting closer by the day and while I pretty much have figured out I'm going with the 480hp LS3 my conflict now is to drop ship it to RCR to bolt in before it ships or ship to my house and put it in myself.

My main issue is the purchase of an engine stand at this moment. I love tools as much as the next guy, but other than needing it for this car I have no use for it and just takes up room. So....is it feasible I would need to pull the engine out during the build? Or pretty much once you put the engine in, you have no reason to pull it other than a catastrophic failure?

I don't plan for any upgrades to it, but if I ever do go that route I can get one at that time.
 
I added some caster to the crate the motor came in and created a roll around in lieu of an engine stand. However be mindful that the LS3 is the Corvette variant and NOT the Camero version. I was delivered the Camero configuration and had to change out the oil pan and suction tube. That required an engine stand so I borrowed one. I also added some length to the engine crate to accommodate the transaxle as a roll around. One I put them both in, they have not come out...
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
I only installed the engine once, but you will need to do some work on the engine before it goes in. You'll need to reverse the intake, change the oil pan, modify the water pump, and install the accessories. If you're using a Graziano, you'll also need to notch the oil pan for the forward output shaft. I put my engine on a stand to do all this work.
 
I forgot all about swapping oil pans because I was looking at the Camaro version. That solves my issue, I'll get the engine here so I can do it all on the stand and slide that sucker in there. Thanks for the quick replies, my mind can rest easy now!
 
Del,
You can probably find an engine stand on Craigslist and sell it for what you paid for it when you're done. That way it doesn't clutter up the garage/shop when you're' done.
Like the others have said, it is handy to have during the build.
 
Del,
You can probably find an engine stand on Craigslist and sell it for what you paid for it when you're done. That way it doesn't clutter up the garage/shop when you're' done.
Like the others have said, it is handy to have during the build.

That's a great idea, potentially end up with a better quality stand as well. I'll start looking now, thanks!
 
I had the motor put in at RCR, but I had the oil pan changed before the motor was sent to RCR. Once the car got delivered, I took the engine out and it has been out throughout the build so far. I had to remove the motor to get the clutch installed and I had a lot of work to do in the engine bay that is just easier without the motor being there. When it goes back in, which should be in two weeks, I plan on it staying in until the car is complete.
 
I had the motor put in at RCR, but I had the oil pan changed before the motor was sent to RCR. Once the car got delivered, I took the engine out and it has been out throughout the build so far. I had to remove the motor to get the clutch installed and I had a lot of work to do in the engine bay that is just easier without the motor being there. When it goes back in, which should be in two weeks, I plan on it staying in until the car is complete.

This is exactly something that's been on the back of my mind ever since I ordered. I initally tried to find a foam LS block to use as a template and just wait to order the engine, but not willing to spend $400 on it. I could borrow a LS1 block, but in the end it may be more trouble than it's worth. Plus having the engine on hand, I won't have anything holding me back to putting it on the road ASAP and work out the kinks.
 
.... a foam LS block to use as a template ...

I had a hard time figuring out where to mount things in the engine compartment. Without the engine with all accessories, I think it will be a challenge. Space back there is tight. I mounted battery, fuel system, ECU, ISIS, etc with the spider off and engine out.

In hind site, I've made servicing some items a PITA. I'd rather have spider on, engine in, exhaust built, then locate all those parts (mark locations). Then remove engine/spider and then mount everything.

I just did not have the garage room and had spider and such in storage until I was ready to mount it.
 
Frank - I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on placement for those various components, either in this thread or via PM.

Del - on your motor selection, why go with the 480 vs the 525 variant? From what I've seen the 525 is still quite streetable. The only difference between those motors is the cam. Pace performance sells a "Pace Gm 525hp crate motor" - they start with a 480 motor and swap the cam for a 525 cam. Their warranty is 1 yr as opposed to GM's 2 yr but you get the 525 at a significant cost savings in comparison. I would recommend chatting with a few of the 480hp owners before finalizing your decision as many seem to lean toward wanting more. I know Allan is running the 525 in his gtr and is quite happy with it.
 
It seems to the common opinion of the board member that the 525 hp version runs better and doesn't stall due to lack of a speed reference as well. Dan Carter is going through this issue now I believe.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
I wish I'd gone with the 525. It apparently has a much better stock tune. I had to get a custom tune done on my LS376/480 just to keep it running.
 
Oh really?! That's good to hear as I wanted the 525 originally. I am timid about the stuff I read about dealing with the surging and how it kinda sucks driving at low speeds and low RPMS.
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
It didn't surge, just died pretty much every time I coasted in neutral. I got so used to blipping the throttle when I came to a stop that I had to re-train myself to not do it after I got the tune done. The guy who tuned it thought the smaller flywheel was the issue.
 
I mean the 525 surging and not very streetable, especially for a manual. Just what I've read though, I'd still like the extra 45hp.

Least it sounds like a tune fixed it and you got it running when building the car, enough to get it on the dyno. That's my plan with any engine, just to maximize power.
 
Just once.. I swapped and modified the engine / trans supports and installed heat barrier tape on the engine side of the bulkhead panel. I used a fork truck.. I had to say that just for Fran ;)
 
I assembled the power-train while waiting for my kit to arrive. That includes the intake mods, relocate the alternator, modify the coolant outlet elbow, electrical harness, clean up/paint, transaxle adapter, clutch/presser plate/throw-out bearing and transaxle.

In otherwords, the complete powertrain was ready to drop in when the kit arrived. In fact, I installed the powertrain within the 1 week of my kit's arrival.

I now have about 4k miles on my SLCt and have had no reason to remove the powertrain. If I did, I would pull the entire engine/transaxle assy together, so I would not need an engine stand.

Bottom line, I would sell the engine stand if you need the room.
 
I'm taking everyone's advice and buying an engine hoist since can't find any used ones around my area...and do like Bill suggested and start doing stuff like flipping intake, etc...

Any particular brand of engine hoist anyone can recommend? Since I don't have the car here yet, I'm unsure if it'll work for the SLC. Here's a few I was looking at, but open to suggestions for sure!

http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200640933_200640933

http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200640934_200640934

Access Denied

Amazon.com: Dragway Tools 2 Ton Folding Hydraulic Engine Hoist Cherry Picker Shop Crane Hoist Lift: Everything Else

Dont know why the TSC link says that, but it still works fine. Thanks for any and all help!
 
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