Caution re: removing rear cage

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
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Whoa, did I post in the Yugo ghetto-student-owner forum by accident? :uneasy:

Interesting attitude toward those that were trying to help you.


Quote:
Am I being clear?:furious:

Obviously not. You were confusing some very intelligent people with the wrong terminology. Thanks for using the emotion icons so that we could tell what you were actually saying. Takes the possibility of "tongue in cheek" comments out of the question. Going to be interesting to see what kind of help you get in the future when you ask questions. But, I bet you will get the same curtious replies from these very helpful people.

OK then, well I really f--ked that up. I really really was being "tongue in cheek" and my attitude is that all you guys have delightful senses of humor. I mistakenly assumed that the Yugo comment was so extreme it would be obvious as sarcasm given the the technical expertise manifest in this forum. Bad gamble. No more joking around for me. I'm truly sorry and I take it all back, emoticons and all.
 
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Ron Earp

Admin
Re: Caution re: removing rear thingie

Uh-Oh... vocabulary lesson for me. "Scuttle?" All I get in various dictionaries is:

Front and rear scuttle frame. Shortened to scuttle. I don't know if it is technically correct, but the non-structural bits that hold on front and rear clips (another term that is learned) of cars of this nature. I think it is an Australian term but I'm not sure. We'll just call it a subframe.

Speaking of which, if you are worried about a little thing like enlarging the bolt holes of the subframe then do not set foot into any race car, professional or amateur, anywhere in the world. Plenty of such adjustments happen during the life of a race car that might worry you.:cowboy: (Used cowboy smile because I didn't know we had it and thought it looked cool!)
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Re: Caution re: removing rear thingie

...if you are worried about a little thing like enlarging the bolt holes of the subframe...

You're right. After all I commuted in a Europa for years and they came that way from the factory. OTOH, even so, elongated holes are so..... gauche.
 
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Ian Clark

Supporter
Alan,

Don't modify any of the holes that mounting bolts attach to or through the chassis. Just open up the holes on the flat plate that is the end or base of your rear support subframe, meaning the part that unbolts from the chassis. The holes in the chassis are not to be messed with.

Looking at your off center bolt ends it looks like a die grinder job to open the hole in the flat plate up enough that the bolts pass through the center of the too big hole. You're going to make up the too bigness with .750 DOM tubing - .125 wall giving a .500 dia bore.

The cut off tubing becomes sleeves that will be flush on the side mating the suspension and chassis stand offs, however it should protrude on the rearward facing (towards the back of the car) so a fillet weld can be done.

Again, make sure the car is level and the rear support subframe is square and level before welding. I'd start with a few tack welds just to hold the sleeves, then remove the part and finish of the bench. The flush mating side of the sleeve can be fusion welded if the ground out holes are close tolerance, other weld with some filler rod, grind or file flat and chase the holes if neccesary.

It's a bit of a fiddle, but only a one time issue. If you're still no sure please feel free to call.

Cheers

Ian
 
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