For those who purchased or purchase a GM LS engine, the instructions list GM part J 45299 pre-luber (approx. $230.00) to prime the engine. ffice
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I have read opinions and techniques on this, but I am old school…remove the distributor and spin the pump……. other included ie pull the ignition fuse and crank it, to making your own pressurized canister, etc.We are not without innovations.Well here is an easy and inexpensive set up you can build easily.<o></o>
Three critical parts (source them wherever and what-ever brand):<o></o>
1. M16 x 1.5 adapter plug (threads into engine port and transitions to an AN barbed hose fitting).I used Vibrant 16634-10AN Male x M16 x 1,5 (Summit)<o></o>
2. AN swivel barbed hose fitting-10AN Female x ½ Barbed Derale 98203 (Summit)<o></o>
3. Drill run pump.I chose PacificHydrostar Heavy Duty # 62145 ($15)<o></o>
The rest is basic tubing and plumbing stuff from Lowes (See the picture). Use standard threaded pipe and clear plastic tubing to plumb from the drill pump to the barbed AN fitting.The barbed fitting is attached to the M16x1.5 fitting which screws into the block.Build a second unit (center of picture) to screw into the pressure port to get pressure readings.On the driver side of the LS block (lower very front edge) is an access oil port to screw in the M16 x 1.5 fitting. <o></o>
The pump is not self-priming, so I placed the 5 qt oil container higher than the engine oil port and started spinning the drill. Pay attention to the pump rotation direction and slowly the line fills, priming the pump. I was able to reach 45 lbs on the gauge.My prototype used 1 inch hose off the pump which proved a bit stiff.I will modify the design with a step down off the pump 1 inch into ½ inch tubing pipe and it will be more manageable.
Hope this helps someone else.<o></o>
ffice" /><?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o></o>I have read opinions and techniques on this, but I am old school…remove the distributor and spin the pump……. other included ie pull the ignition fuse and crank it, to making your own pressurized canister, etc.We are not without innovations.Well here is an easy and inexpensive set up you can build easily.<o
></o>Three critical parts (source them wherever and what-ever brand):<o
></o>1. M16 x 1.5 adapter plug (threads into engine port and transitions to an AN barbed hose fitting).I used Vibrant 16634-10AN Male x M16 x 1,5 (Summit)<o
></o>2. AN swivel barbed hose fitting-10AN Female x ½ Barbed Derale 98203 (Summit)<o
></o>3. Drill run pump.I chose PacificHydrostar Heavy Duty # 62145 ($15)<o
></o>The rest is basic tubing and plumbing stuff from Lowes (See the picture). Use standard threaded pipe and clear plastic tubing to plumb from the drill pump to the barbed AN fitting.The barbed fitting is attached to the M16x1.5 fitting which screws into the block.Build a second unit (center of picture) to screw into the pressure port to get pressure readings.On the driver side of the LS block (lower very front edge) is an access oil port to screw in the M16 x 1.5 fitting. <o
></o>The pump is not self-priming, so I placed the 5 qt oil container higher than the engine oil port and started spinning the drill. Pay attention to the pump rotation direction and slowly the line fills, priming the pump. I was able to reach 45 lbs on the gauge.My prototype used 1 inch hose off the pump which proved a bit stiff.I will modify the design with a step down off the pump 1 inch into ½ inch tubing pipe and it will be more manageable.
Hope this helps someone else.<o
></o>
