I'm not sure if this post goes here or in DIY trim section, but my car is a Superformance.
I've had a problem getting the doors sealed up from water, especially when washing the car. I bought a different EPT extrusion profile this weekend at the Charlotte car show. This one has a bulb and not a lip seal. The internal ribs on the spring reinforced U profile only shows one pair and not the twin pair of internal rubber as SP uses, but it fits tight to the door raw edge. The bulb is .59 diameter in the catalog and I measured about .600 wide on the piece I have. I used just under 9 feet per side and that does not include the bottom sill seal. There I used the 31 1/2 inch piece of the .75 inch bulb trim. The 'round' bulb is less likley to deform from air forces than the lip design.
The company I bought from is Restoration Specialties & Supply (814-467-9842) in Windber PA. The attached link has a copy of their 2009 catalog. See page 108, item number BZ 617. The cost is nominal for 25 feet. I think they buy it in 200 foot rolls. On my car, the larger seal (.75) fills the gap along the lower door sill better than the small.
After removal of the OE seal and install of the bulb seal, I wiped the seal with silicone to help closure of the door at the top under the roof eyebrow (?). The door was tighter to close, but you can tell it is sealed now. I haven't tried the water test yet, however I don't see daylight when I look over and above my left shoulder.
I also made a 1" thick foam block with PSA that fits at the base of both of the 'A' pillars at the door sill to block and reroute water from the front of the car and tray that the brake and clutch caps sit in on the left side of the car. The water would enter at the juncture of the 'A' pillar and sill and then onto the floor if a heavy rain occurred.
I hope this may help you be creative if you have this problem and don't like sitting in wet seats. Grady
THE link
Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.
I've had a problem getting the doors sealed up from water, especially when washing the car. I bought a different EPT extrusion profile this weekend at the Charlotte car show. This one has a bulb and not a lip seal. The internal ribs on the spring reinforced U profile only shows one pair and not the twin pair of internal rubber as SP uses, but it fits tight to the door raw edge. The bulb is .59 diameter in the catalog and I measured about .600 wide on the piece I have. I used just under 9 feet per side and that does not include the bottom sill seal. There I used the 31 1/2 inch piece of the .75 inch bulb trim. The 'round' bulb is less likley to deform from air forces than the lip design.
The company I bought from is Restoration Specialties & Supply (814-467-9842) in Windber PA. The attached link has a copy of their 2009 catalog. See page 108, item number BZ 617. The cost is nominal for 25 feet. I think they buy it in 200 foot rolls. On my car, the larger seal (.75) fills the gap along the lower door sill better than the small.
After removal of the OE seal and install of the bulb seal, I wiped the seal with silicone to help closure of the door at the top under the roof eyebrow (?). The door was tighter to close, but you can tell it is sealed now. I haven't tried the water test yet, however I don't see daylight when I look over and above my left shoulder.
I also made a 1" thick foam block with PSA that fits at the base of both of the 'A' pillars at the door sill to block and reroute water from the front of the car and tray that the brake and clutch caps sit in on the left side of the car. The water would enter at the juncture of the 'A' pillar and sill and then onto the floor if a heavy rain occurred.
I hope this may help you be creative if you have this problem and don't like sitting in wet seats. Grady
THE link
Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.
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