How to build a Superlite that's actually super-light
I think I did lose some weight due to shorter coolant lines. Less plumbing saves a little, but the bigger savings is from needing less coolant. My entire coolant system uses about 3 gallons (including expansion tank).
I have not had my car weighed yet, but we can estimate the savings if someone can answer the following 2 questions:
I have not had my car weighed yet, but we can estimate the savings if someone can answer the following 2 questions:
- What is the weight of the coolant lines, mounting hardware and insulation, that run along the sides from front to back?
- How much coolant is used in the stock SLC configuration?
Everything weights something, if you want a superlite Superlite. Biggest concern would be the engine trans combo. Don't know if a turbo 4 banger would save weight or just cost money, but seems like a good option to have cake and consume it too 
Next would be tire wheel combo, a lot of differences to be had here. Then brakes, followed by......Plastic WS, no insulation, no weather striping, aluminum brackets, consolidate fasteners, use alu fasteners where possible, Tio2 fasteners when heavier load bearing is needed. Bla Bla Bla...
Just add lightness, all it costs is money! And some reliability via reduced weight components if you are willing to engineer it to 'time out' some of the parts.
Next would be tire wheel combo, a lot of differences to be had here. Then brakes, followed by......Plastic WS, no insulation, no weather striping, aluminum brackets, consolidate fasteners, use alu fasteners where possible, Tio2 fasteners when heavier load bearing is needed. Bla Bla Bla...Just add lightness, all it costs is money! And some reliability via reduced weight components if you are willing to engineer it to 'time out' some of the parts.
The QRP SLC owned by Chris Durbin, is over 2700lbs in endurance trim. That doesn't include up to 40 gal of fuel.
The SCCA lap record from Thunderhill was using the crows nest over the top of the hill, and was our 2nd race ever.
In this years 25hr of TH race, Mike turned a 1:43:9 with almost full tanks, in traffic, using the bypass track configuration. These times were accomplished with Hoosier A/6/7s not even race slicks.
The Wolf V/8 Hyabusa that Al Unser ran, was faster than us, but 5-7 times more expensive, and very unreliable.
We hope to build out the LeMans we have this year as a track day race car, with a 650 hp LS7, and hopefully less than 2300lbs. It should be faster than the Coupe, how much will be interesting.
Bottom line is you can buy a used DSR with modified Suzuki for less than a SLC.
You will spend way more $ on racing/running costs in tires, engines etc. The SLC is a safer, more reliable package, as you will be running your DSR against full sized race cars, unless you only race in the SCCA P1, P2 class.
Bottom line is that most of us will never even reach the potential of either type of car, as it takes an extremely experienced, talented and/or Pro driver to reach this high level of performance.
Just build a standard LS crate motor, and go out and scare the sh#t out of yourself, you don't need anything else.
The SCCA lap record from Thunderhill was using the crows nest over the top of the hill, and was our 2nd race ever.
In this years 25hr of TH race, Mike turned a 1:43:9 with almost full tanks, in traffic, using the bypass track configuration. These times were accomplished with Hoosier A/6/7s not even race slicks.
The Wolf V/8 Hyabusa that Al Unser ran, was faster than us, but 5-7 times more expensive, and very unreliable.
We hope to build out the LeMans we have this year as a track day race car, with a 650 hp LS7, and hopefully less than 2300lbs. It should be faster than the Coupe, how much will be interesting.
Bottom line is you can buy a used DSR with modified Suzuki for less than a SLC.
You will spend way more $ on racing/running costs in tires, engines etc. The SLC is a safer, more reliable package, as you will be running your DSR against full sized race cars, unless you only race in the SCCA P1, P2 class.
Bottom line is that most of us will never even reach the potential of either type of car, as it takes an extremely experienced, talented and/or Pro driver to reach this high level of performance.
Just build a standard LS crate motor, and go out and scare the sh#t out of yourself, you don't need anything else.
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Build a mild SL-C with a tight budget for street and a LMP-2 for track. You could build both on a budget and have best of both worlds for not that much more than a full on exotic build. Of course it'll take longer and be a tad more to store. IF I get back in to heavy track use, I think the LMP-2 is the cat's meow. For now, I'll just beat on my NASA extreme iron and GT2.
As Mesa points out: just as there is a point of diminishing returns on hp (though I kind of like the Donohue mentality) , there is a dependability loss of return on Chapman's philosophy too. Lotus are not know for their reliability.
As Mesa points out: just as there is a point of diminishing returns on hp (though I kind of like the Donohue mentality) , there is a dependability loss of return on Chapman's philosophy too. Lotus are not know for their reliability.
Just for comparison, Lamborghini just announced a GT3 version of their Huracan. The GT3
Source: Lamborghini Huracan GT3 racer unveiled [w/video]
This is with the rollcage and all the other paraphenalia added to homologate the car for the GT3 class, the 5.2 litre V-10, which will drive the rear wheels only, and a sequential transmission.
Source: Lamborghini Huracan GT3 racer unveiled [w/video]
Ron Earp
Admin
What'd I do? I haven't even posted on this thread.
That's probably the issue!
'Funny...I just made that same suggestion on another car forum a day or so ago!
About a year ago I was 63 lbs over weight. I'm not now.
Losing it isn't really all that difficult. 'Just have to stick to a SOUND, BALANCED DIETARY PLAN and not cheat on it. (I don't believe the particular plan I was on is available in Europe or I'd name it.)
Andrea Tantaros probably summed up the 'key' to weight loss best: "No food tastes as good as being thin feels." Amen, sister!
Now - back to suggestions for reducing a vehicle's weight...
Howard Jones
Supporter
Incase you missed this over in the clubhouse
Ted just said THE WORD, TIRES!!!!!! IMHO the first $100K will get you a really fast car that weighs 2500 pounds. If you want to get another 500lbs off, it will cost another $50K at least. But you just might get the same performance increase with $2000 worth of tires.
Lastly If I did build a SLC that was 2000 pounds, had 800HP, and ran real race tires instead of Hoosiers would I be able to drive it at 100%. Not really if I am honest with myself.
What do I mean. A really well driven top prepared spec Miata can be outrun in my GT40 on street tires..........barely. I can put about a sec to a sec and a half on them if I push out of the fun zone and into the sweat zone. That gets me to about 2 min 16-18 at my favorite track. I would love to run at about 2 min flat and keep it in the fun zone so I am building my SLC. I think I have a proper grasp of the required skills and car performance to achieve this goal and that's what I am shooting for.
Teds car runs a nice fast pace 1:45 lap with 40s in hand. The car is faster, more developed, and has better drivers.
Given the examples we already are running about 30 secs a lap faster than my GT40 in Teds car and again if I am being honest that's beyond my personal pucker factor. What in the hell would I do with another 300HP and 25% weight reduction. Sub 40's, mid 30's, That just isn't gonna happen. Maybe 30 year ago but not tomorrow. It just does not make sense..........at least for me.
Put big ass tires on it, run a tidy line and don't slide the car around. Listen to Ted.
Ted just said THE WORD, TIRES!!!!!! IMHO the first $100K will get you a really fast car that weighs 2500 pounds. If you want to get another 500lbs off, it will cost another $50K at least. But you just might get the same performance increase with $2000 worth of tires.
Lastly If I did build a SLC that was 2000 pounds, had 800HP, and ran real race tires instead of Hoosiers would I be able to drive it at 100%. Not really if I am honest with myself.
What do I mean. A really well driven top prepared spec Miata can be outrun in my GT40 on street tires..........barely. I can put about a sec to a sec and a half on them if I push out of the fun zone and into the sweat zone. That gets me to about 2 min 16-18 at my favorite track. I would love to run at about 2 min flat and keep it in the fun zone so I am building my SLC. I think I have a proper grasp of the required skills and car performance to achieve this goal and that's what I am shooting for.
Teds car runs a nice fast pace 1:45 lap with 40s in hand. The car is faster, more developed, and has better drivers.
Given the examples we already are running about 30 secs a lap faster than my GT40 in Teds car and again if I am being honest that's beyond my personal pucker factor. What in the hell would I do with another 300HP and 25% weight reduction. Sub 40's, mid 30's, That just isn't gonna happen. Maybe 30 year ago but not tomorrow. It just does not make sense..........at least for me.
Put big ass tires on it, run a tidy line and don't slide the car around. Listen to Ted.
