New Motor for RF GT40

[Mick]

Hersh, I have the template as drawing I can send it to you.
However If im not wrong you are using the standard fuel rail set up and the engine stabilizer bar Robert provides, on mine I've modified both the rails and crossmember as per origonal to allow for equal length crossover exhaust system. I couldn't fit the airbox with out the mods.
You may be able to get it to fit but i doubt it.

 

[Mick]

The mesh screens easy. Go to the local store by 8 medium flour sieves cut out the desired shape and bend under the lip of the trumpets and whala. Thats exactly how the origonl Formula one guys did it. How cheap it that.

 

[Mick]

Hers be carefull if you modify the crossmember you should change you engine mounts to the cobra style as well as the gearbox mounts hes some pics

 

[Mick]

and another

 

[Mick]

Engine mounts

 

[Hershal Byrd]

Mick,
Thanks Mate for the info. You would be surprised to hear that I have in fact discarded the engine stabilizer bar and I have made my engine and trans mounts into solid mounts. That does away with the engine movement in any direction. Also I have lowered the rear of the trans mount about a centimeter. If you could send me those plans for the pan I would be greatful.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Mick]

Sorry Hersh didnt realise you had change the standard setup sounds like you have it sorted. I'll send you the file as a pdf. coupla days. what about the fuel rails.

 

[Ron Earp]

Nice trans mount and engine mount. Mick, I wouldn't mind having some info on those and the pan too if you are in a giving and helping mood this Christmas. I'm going to copy this thread into the RF section as well, the info here on the tail end is quite useful. Those mounts are very good and better than what I made for my kit when I had it.

Best,
Ron

 

[Peter Delaney]

Hi Mick,

That is a very nice setup - the cold air box & filter screens are just what I am shooting for !

I tried the Inglese screens, but it was a disaster - 3 of the rubber rings failed within 20 mins (& my DC&O trumpets are 4mm smaller than the Weber ones that the rings were designed for) !

I'll be looking for some flour sieves tomorrow !

Yours is the only other setup I have seen with the DC&O bodies turned 180deg - I also did that to get the injectors to fire straight into the ports (all in the cause of meeting the &**&%^& emissions tests). I suspect that it is the best way to go anyway - except for the fun & games fitting it all in !

My fuel rails are fabricated from steel tube, but I couldn't get the in/out feeds or the 1st injector to clear the dizzy - had to chop it off & go with coil-packs.

Also, your engine mounts look just like my DRB ones - with these, I don't think there is any real need for a stabiliser bar at all - when I first got my car going, there was virtually no clearance between the w/p pulley bolts & the engine hatch. After the monster braking tests for rego, I found that the bolts had machined a nice little arc into the back of the hatch - about 0.5mm deep.

So I reckon that fore&aft engine movement with these mounts is no more than 0.75mm - not enough to worry about.

It would be greatly appreciated if you could cc: the cold air box drawing to me as well.

BTW - where in Oz are you located ? (I am in Sydney).

Kind Regards,

Peter D.

 

[Hershal Byrd]

Mick,
Those fuel rails are not a problem. I'm used to R&D work. I kinda like it. There is a whole box of fuel fittings and parts here that comes in handy for this type of conversion.
When I do the change I'll be sure to post the modifications so others can do the same if they like.
Again thanks for the info.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Mick]

I'll endevour to post details on the cold air box and Mounting brackets, might take a week or so with Christmas in the middle. The engine mounts are available of the shelf. The gearbox mounts I made. I will draw them up and post the info into the tech and tips section.

 

[Mick]

I should add the gearbox brackets and engine mount changes I have made where as a result of Bruce Mckenzie (the Ideas man). We built both cars at the same time and where able to bounce of each other.

 

Mick, I would also be looking forward to the Airbox dimentions. Thanks in advance

Ron, Regarding Dyno, I answered your question on the previous tread.

Cheers,

 

[Hershal Byrd]

Mick,
No hurries here. I will be glad to pay for those plans as it will save me time. I know they didn't appear from thin air. It took some time to make those.

Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

YES, Hershal will pay for me as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bandito.gif

Mr. Byrd, I am only kidding

 

[Hershal Byrd]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
Hersh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Mick]

Beer I dont care how! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif

 

[kent holst]

dont give up on those webers´,yet. if u can get those carbs right u get a engine that screems for moore rpm

 

[Jac Mac]

Hi Ron. Russ Noble had a thought on the weber airflow situation which you may be able to explore further.That manifold looks like it has plenty of room on the underside to fit balance tubes between runners[1-6,5-3,4-7,2-8].This would give even pulses between cyls and dependant on size of tube allow each cyl to "see" more airflow.Could also have benefits at lower engine speeds response wise.What have got to lose, if it dont work,just plug-or weld the holes. Regards Jack.

 

[Ron Earp]

Hi Jack,

If the tubes were large enough to support some real air flow then that might could work. Maybe 1" in diameter? Hard to know exactly what would happen with it but as you say, it could be plugged up if it didn't work!