Poor man's GT 40

Hi, I been a member here a long time but am posting for the first time. I've had my NAF MK II,for about 6 years. My son and his friend painted it for me last summer. I'm 62yrs old and been a car guy since age 13. I was trained at the FORD motor training center in Califorina prior to leaving the Marine Corps.
I've had a love for the GT 40 from the very first time I saw them in the 60's, growing up in Milwaukee,WI. The first time I saw one in person was at a carshow at the "Milwaukee Mile" (West Allis,Wisconsin). The car is # 1045 John the owner invited me to his house to allow me to take pictures. John also owns an original aluminum body 289 Cobra.
I could never afford to own even a replica GT on my Ploice retirement, so when the NAF showed up on Ebay I bought it. The owner claimed to have driven it from Arizona to Queens NY where I purchased it. I drove it onto the trailer but when I got it home and started driving it, the thing overheated instantly,due to it having a stock radiator trying to cool a SM Block Chevy powerplant.
I'm in the process of installing a 3 core radiator,which should handle cooling. I gutted all the wiring and bought a "Quick Wire" brand wiring kit for a model-t bucket hotrod (I just need the basics) I have a complete set of Stewart-Warner guages. The problem I have right now is finding a inexpensive GT40 dash. I checked GT40 Austrailia & Roaring 40's. The cost is reasonable,but shipping is insane. Exhaust is another challenge, I'm toying with an Idea of using 1/4 inch retangular tubing as a header, everybody says it can't be done. I'm willing to try anything once.
The Family just aquired (after selling an American Grafitti Clone) a Superformance Cobra.
We're having fun with that, so the Fiero GT40 or as I call it my CHEVFORDIAC is on the back burner again.
If anybody knows where I can get an inexpensive GT 40 dash let me know.
Bob "Cruiser" Koceja
 

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Your search for a dash may be a bit disappointing in that everthing you find will have to be extensively modified and you'll be cutting up a rather costly item. You're not too far from Race Car Replicas - why don't you get some dimensions from your car and see if Fran has something that will come close. If that doesn't work out, try joining some blocks of styrofoam and using a bit of filler, fashioning a mold, with some appropriate internal bracing. You can glass right over the foam and then, when the glass cures, melt the foam away (gas melts styrofoam but you didn't hear this from me!). Make sure you glass the bracing in. As for the headers, both Summit Racing and Jegs offer do-it-yourself header kits with all the component pieces you'll need. Good luck on your project.
 
Bob. welcome to GT40s and good luck with the project. As an American Graffiti fan I have to say the rod looks spot on and I expect it was snapped up very quickly. Nice combination, Cobra and GT40 hope you manage to find/make the parts you need. I echo Al's comments about having a word with Fran.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Your search for a dash may be a bit disappointing in that everthing you find will have to be extensively modified and you'll be cutting up a rather costly item. You're not too far from Race Car Replicas - why don't you get some dimensions from your car and see if Fran has something that will come close. If that doesn't work out, try joining some blocks of styrofoam and using a bit of filler, fashioning a mold, with some appropriate internal bracing. You can glass right over the foam and then, when the glass cures, melt the foam away (gas melts styrofoam but you didn't hear this from me!). Make sure you glass the bracing in. As for the headers, both Summit Racing and Jegs offer do-it-yourself header kits with all the component pieces you'll need. Good luck on your project.

My experience has been that the resin will desolve normal styrofoam. There are foams which do not react with the resin which are readily available at most craft shops, but then you must scrape it out when finished (if the foam must be removed). Always test the foam prior to laying the wet glasswork over it. Even a latex paint layer will provide a fair barrier if you've no other choice.
 
My experience has been that the resin will desolve normal styrofoam. There are foams which do not react with the resin which are readily available at most craft shops, but then you must scrape it out when finished (if the foam must be removed). Always test the foam prior to laying the wet glasswork over it. Even a latex paint layer will provide a fair barrier if you've no other choice.

Two options

either use epoxy resin if you have a PS foam or if you want to use the cheaper polyester resin you have to use a PU foam ( which will not dissolve) PU foam can be used on epoxy resin as well. and usuallay can be obtained in finer graines better suited for shaping ( check out surfboard building supplies)

TOM
 

Jack Houpe

GT40s Supporter
Your my kind of guy Bob, Terry and Tom have some good advice, I would give it a shot.

As far as the cooling, unless the radiator is very small, I would consider using a bypass thermostat up front and doing away with the block mounted unit and the bypass between the manifold and water pump.

I liked your Clone (being an American Graffiti guy) but you will really enjoy the SPF.
 
I modified a Superformance dash . I found local SF dealer and ordered . cut up and made it fit . Worst part was waiting 8 months to get . If willing to try check out RCR .
To see my dash , search for Frank's Folly .
 
Frank, your Forty looks great, the pictures of the dash mods will be a big help. I hope mine turns out as good.
Fran, thanks for the email. As soon as I come up with the cash, I may take a road trip to see your place. I always enjoy looking at GT's
Thanks to everybody for your comments and encouragement.
 
Bob,
Shoot me a pm with your contact info. I am in milwaukee and have an RCR, and a project KVA. I may have some parts for you. Scott
 
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