Rose Jointed Suspension
- Thread starter OneDay
- Start date
David Morton
Lifetime Supporter
Its generally less comfortable and sounds like a bag of nails on bumpy roads but comapred with metallastic joints, it is infinitely more precise when setting up a car. Metallastic joints can wear as well as rose joints though the rose joints do not suffer from changes in temperature, which IMHO means your chasing your tail when trying any sort of set up. I've heard it described as a type of hysteresis curve.
Dave M
Dave M
Robert Logan
Defunct Manufactuer - Old RF Company
John,
I agree with Dave in his summery of the rose joint as they can be a little harsh. At Roaring Forties we use a combination of the rose joint and a nylatron bush. Basically the nylathon bushes are at the chassis end of all control arms to soften the ride , while the rose joints are at the upright end of the control arms to improve adjustability and keep the car tight. Our race car has rose joints all round and a bigger version as well.
The feed back from our customers with road cars is that the ride is not as harsh as they expected and very precise in the way the car changes direction (the true measure of good suspension design).
I hope this helps,
Best wishes,
Robert
I agree with Dave in his summery of the rose joint as they can be a little harsh. At Roaring Forties we use a combination of the rose joint and a nylatron bush. Basically the nylathon bushes are at the chassis end of all control arms to soften the ride , while the rose joints are at the upright end of the control arms to improve adjustability and keep the car tight. Our race car has rose joints all round and a bigger version as well.
The feed back from our customers with road cars is that the ride is not as harsh as they expected and very precise in the way the car changes direction (the true measure of good suspension design).
I hope this helps,
Best wishes,
Robert
The choice really depends use of the car. If you are going to race, track days etc. and want the ultimate in suspension, setup, control etc. then rose jointed suspension is vital. If you're going for a road only and you are not into adjusting and tuning suspension then forget rose jointed suspension. Alternatively you can have a little of both. Rose joints are quite expensive and wear out over time. In fact if you don't keep em clean they'll wear out fast.
I'd recommend you buy some books on suspension and read up on the theory, you'll get a much better idea of which way you want to go.
Regards,
J.P
I'd recommend you buy some books on suspension and read up on the theory, you'll get a much better idea of which way you want to go.
Regards,
J.P
A compromise solution is to use nylon bushes instead of the metaliastic joints. No need to change or modify your suspension arms, just push out (easier said than done!) the old metalastic joints and press in nylon bushes. I have these on my car and have run them for years with zero failures. Costs much less than rose joints too.
I did find that my old metalastic joints had slid within the suspension arm tubes, particularly on the rear trailing radius arms. Going round roundabouts too fast I guess.
Cost prevented me from going down rose joint route but one day I will rebuild my car and try to include them then. My car is used primarily for competition and track days.
Malcolm
I did find that my old metalastic joints had slid within the suspension arm tubes, particularly on the rear trailing radius arms. Going round roundabouts too fast I guess.
Cost prevented me from going down rose joint route but one day I will rebuild my car and try to include them then. My car is used primarily for competition and track days.
Malcolm
Malcom,
where can I find these nylon bushes?
Tx
Fred
where can I find these nylon bushes?
Tx
Fred
Malcom,
where can I find these nylon bushes for a GTD standard version?
Tx
Fred
where can I find these nylon bushes for a GTD standard version?
Tx
Fred
Rick Merz
Lifetime Supporter
Fred, I ordered mine through Power Engineering, ph 01144-1895-255-699 (from the states). Part Number is PF99-110. Graham Turner was kind enough to give me this information that I am passing on to you. If you call 01144-1895-460033 you can talk to Matthew Atkins to check for availability, he cannot sell to you unless you are a business but Power Engineering is right next door to the manufacturer. This is for a bushing that will fit into a 1" dia. tube end.
You can make your own bushing with Delrin plastic, the same stuff I talked about in the "trick K/O tool" thread. This is what was used in many race cars in the 70's that awere modified production cars, such as the Trans-am stuff, etc. You can machine it on a lathe to the dimensions you need. it is very slighty resiliant so it takes up some shock but does not deflect enough to change geometry. The other asset it has is that it is slighty "slippery' giving the bush some lubricity against the pivot and bolt.
Rick
Rick
Rick,Malcom,
Tx for the tip
Will follow up
Rgds
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.giffred
Tx for the tip
Will follow up
Rgds
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.giffred
Where I got mine from is no longer a viable source as they came from the now closed Poole GTD factory. They were spare race bushes Ray had made and I had to drill them out to the correct size for my suspension bolts. Other than that they just pushed in. However Roy helped me make the steel tubes as I did not have a lathe then. I think the whole job cost me about £90. That is every joint on the car.
Nowadays I would have a go at making my own from a lenght of nylon as I have my own lathe.
Don't forget the steel tubes should be marginally longer than the width of the joint so that it pinches up tight and so does not rotate in use.
Malcolm
Nowadays I would have a go at making my own from a lenght of nylon as I have my own lathe.
Don't forget the steel tubes should be marginally longer than the width of the joint so that it pinches up tight and so does not rotate in use.
Malcolm
