SLC daily driver? Possible?

Speaking of the 40, how is the RCR40 build time compared to the SLC?

The SL-C build time is shorter, probably not quite twice as fast but close to it. The RCR-40 is relatively a very quick GT40 replica to build, but due to the complexity of the GT40 design & layout, it is still time consuming.

So the turnkey build cost of an SL-C would be noticeable less than an RCR-40.

Hope that helps.
 
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The body is fitted and aligned, doors must be latched and hung (mine was a delivered USA deluxe kit). Not too terrible to do. I don't know how a kit would be shipped to the U.K. You will take the spider off anyway to do some of the work (it's easier). Fabrication will involve making some minor brackets (tubing brackets for coolant lines, I'm fabricating a couple of bent ally panels to mount the rad fans to rather than using the pull through plastic things that come with the fans). My choice on these things. suitable off the shelf hardware is available everywhere. You will find that nothing is really difficult. Making a few cutouts in the fiberglass to patterns provided in not brain surgery! I'm enjoying my build and aside from a few basic questions which were promptly answered by Fran, it is going very well. I'm using an oddball combination of an inverted 930LSD gearbox and a modified LS-1 engine so a few things will be slightly different on my car.
Jack Molleur
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Howard Jones

Supporter
Don't worry a lot about luggage. Lets work out a trip to Vegas from LA. Whats that about 300 miles. Call it 5 hours each way. We are going with the wife, drive easy, stop a couple of times and gonna leave early Sat. morning stay Sat and Sun night, then drive home Monday.

I need 1 pair of geans, change boxers and socks 3 times, swim suit, a T-shirt, a golf shirt, another golf shirt, light coat (leave it home in summer) and a pair of sneekers a ball cap and sunglasses. Wear the jeans, ballcap, sunglasses and shoes on the drive. That leaves a couple of boxers, some socks, two polo shirts and a T-shirt along with a tooth brush, hair brush, and razor. This will fit into a half of a small gym bag. Fill the rest of the bag with the wifes stuff (same basic list, just girl clothes) a little more makeup and you're in the car with a medium small gym bag and the wife. Put it on her lap and keep telling her it's like when you were both young. "We didn't take LUGGAGE to the no tell motel did we honney...... worked good then and makes me feel younger like you baby! You know...no strings...kids...just you and me baby!!!"

Bla Bla Bla...Spend plenty of money and she'll be fine.

If she NEEEEEDDDDDSSSS MOOOOOREEEE!!!!!!!!! overnight fed ex box to hotel.

If you WANT to drive these cars, you CAN drive these cars as much and as far as you like. Guys ride bikes with their wifes all the way across the country for gods sake. They like to RIDE bikes.
 
George you could certainly get some custom made storage boxes for the engine bay compartment. A few RCR-40 owners have gone that way.

The SLC cockpit area is very generous. There is plenty of room to put small soft bags in the cockpit without having to nurse them.

And there is plenty of room next to the seats for our lady friends to put their handbags, even the large carry just about everything handbags.
 
The build time is very encouraging indeed. I have a friend who said he not only is willing to help, but actually wants to help with the build. I've worked on cars more than he has, but he's far more meticulous than I am, so I'm going to take him up on his offer. As for the trips to Las Vegas, they tend to be week long trips, not quick weekend trips. But the place I stay has a full washer/dryer setup, so only taking a few changes and washing them isn't out of the question :laugh:

Now my only issue is whether I want to wait for one of my CDs to mature or to borrow money short term, buy it now, and pay back the loan when the CD matures. I know what I want to do, and I know what the mature answer is, and they aren't the same. Decisions, decisions.. :veryangry:
 
Someone else said "life is not about regretting what you have done, but rather regretting what you haven't done"!

Have fun anyway...
 

Brian Hamilton

I'm on the verge of touching myself inappropriatel
Yeah, I may be coming into some money myself. Well, maybe not as it looks right now. But anyway, talking to the wife, she wants me to wait and let the money gain interest. But, I, on the other hand would like to spend it all RIGHT NOW. LOL

Guess it's all up to the individual. I may buy the SL-R first and the SL-C soon thereafter. Who knows. I can't make up my damn mind.

Good luck!!!

Brian
 
Now my only issue is whether I want to wait for one of my CDs to mature or to borrow money short term, buy it now, and pay back the loan when the CD matures. I know what I want to do, and I know what the mature answer is, and they aren't the same. Decisions, decisions.. :veryangry:
I'm going through the same "process" :)
 
A 4-rotor is too long in combo with a G50/G96 though Fran said it could be made to fit but at the expense of other things, mainly your budget.

I've decided to just plug in the built 20b I already have and turbocharge it though I will probably make some changes to it...again. The turbo 20b would make more power than an n/a 4-rotor (or n/a LSx :D) but with more complexity and (perhaps) less reliability.

Did you ever figure out what engine you're gonna use in yours? Are you going 4 rotor? Maybe we should start another thread on this... LOL
It's been covered but I'll recap to keep things "on topic".
1. Small gym bag
2. Small wife or girlfriend
3. Short stays
4. Long stays need a trailer hitch to tow suitcases, washer/dryer and large wife or girlfriend.
5. Money to spend on wife or girlfriend .
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
I've........ 20b I already have and turbocharge it ....... less reliability.


Reliability won't be an issue if you (1) maintain clean oil, (2) change oil filter often, (3) keep the boost down < 24 lbs.

I ran a wankel 20B 325 rwhp 20 lbs boost in a 1,600 lb sandrail for 5 years, no issues. Then built another wankel 20B 480 rwhp with 28 lbs boost, wow!! I have cooked a couple turbos but as far as the motors go they are as reliable an anything else high performance.

FWIW, I do not spend the extra money on ceramic rotor seals. The argument there is if your running hard enough to fry the standard seals then it's minimal more that the ceramic seal will withstand. But when the ceramic seals give then you will more than likely tear up the rotors along with it. Not so with the standard seals.

Funny thing is, when I first got involve with rotories I was told how unreliable they were. So I had my engine builder build two "long blocks", so to speak, one for a spare. Guess what, that spare has been in storage with shrink wrap for the last 5 years! (Probably won't even find it now)
 
To be fair a stock crate ls engine is 325 rwhp. A built one that will run forever on pump gas is going to be between 500-550-600 rwhp.\

I love the wankel. I owed the first FD3s in Colorado. Bought my R1 cym december of 92. Had it for 6 years and 3 engines. Could not justify yet another engine to my wife once we started having kids.

Then I discovered lsx powered FD3s. Best of all worlds. :)
 
Yeah, I was going to say that Dave is short selling the LSx motor. Guys with stock cubes are getting 500+ rwhp with a 6-speed and if you bump it up to 400+ cubes, 600+ rwhp is readily available. All in a motor that weighs about 400 lbs. At least in the states they are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. From what I understand, over in the U.K. and eastward they are not so inexpensive.
 
Reliability won't be an issue if you (1) maintain clean oil, (2) change oil filter often, (3) keep the boost down < 24 lbs.
Boost isn't really the issue, it's the tune and heat management. You can pop a turbocharged rotary pretty easy, regardess of the boost. My expererience is that anytime you force feed something, you are more likely, albeit not guaranteed, to encounter more problems.

On readily available pump gas in CA which is 91 octane, 17psi is starting to push the limits of the octane rating with rotaries. I've run water and methanol injection systems before and have run up to 22 psi with 91 octane. Probably could have gone higher but I get scared ;)

The capacity of the SL-C with all the additional bodywork vs. a sandrail to cool a high hp turbocharged rotary is a bit more limited I imagine.

I ran a wankel 20B 325 rwhp 20 lbs boost in a 1,600 lb sandrail for 5 years, no issues. Then built another wankel 20B 480 rwhp with 28 lbs boost, wow!!
Those numbers are very, very low for the amount of boost you are running, even for a 13b. Heck, I made a tick over 430 rwhp @ 16 psi on my 13bt. Those power figures might make sense if you were running the 20b's stock twin turbos with stock ports. In comparison, with a mild street port and a GT42 on a 20b, at 15-17 psi people are making 550 - 600 rwhp.


FWIW, I do not spend the extra money on ceramic rotor seals. The argument there is if your running hard enough to fry the standard seals then it's minimal more that the ceramic seal will withstand. But when the ceramic seals give then you will more than likely tear up the rotors along with it. Not so with the standard seals.
Too late!
I've only run NRS ceramic seals in all of my rotaries since 2000 and they're already in the engine. I've popped engines with them and swear they have saved me from popping engines in other cases. As far as them tearing everything up in their path (or not) in the event of a failure.
I've experienced both cases:
RX7Club.com - View Single Post - NRS Rotorsports ceramic seal test results
RX7Club.com - View Single Post - NRS Rotorsports ceramic seal test results
And here is the whole thread in case you have several hours to kill:
NRS Rotorsports ceramic seal test results - RX7Club.com
I've never believed they are "bulletproof" but there are many other adavanteges to them over stock seals. Less wear, better sealing, no floating, reusable and more. Now, NRS even offers ceramic corner seals and they will go in the engine next time it is apart...just because :)

Funny thing is, when I first got involve with rotories I was told how unreliable they were.
Like I said, it's all in the tune.
As long as you don't overheat them, naturally aspirated rotaries are arguably one of the most reliable engines out there. Than again, I am a rotard as my LSx friends like to call me/us.
So I had my engine builder build two "long blocks", so to speak, one for a spare. Guess what, that spare has been in storage with shrink wrap for the last 5 years! (Probably won't even find it now)
If I find it for you, can I keep it?
Finders keepers, right!

For reference, 15 psi and 18-19 psi, respectively:

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Yeah, I was going to say that Dave is short selling the LSx motor. Guys with stock cubes are getting 500+ rwhp with a 6-speed and if you bump it up to 400+ cubes, 600+ rwhp is readily available. All in a motor that weighs about 400 lbs. At least in the states they are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. From what I understand, over in the U.K. and eastward they are not so inexpensive.
I have two friends with LS7's in their 3rd gen RX-7's that make over 580 rwhp. I'm not short selling them as they are powerful packages and I have the complete respect for anyone who chooses that path. They are perhaps the best bang for your buck vs. reliability engines out there.
 
I'm talking the entire motor, ready to run, and not just the short block. If you're going to turbo the rotary, then the turbos and the exhaust manifold would be part of the motor weight as well, if you wanted to compare apples to apples. I've read about several LS1 into RX7's and the reports were that the car weight was nearly the same.
 
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