Steering column to quick release sleeve.

[Keith Stafford]

Just fitted a Corsa C EPAS column in the '40, the top of the column has a 22.5mm splined (male) shaft. I want to fit a steering wheel quick release sleeve to this. The sleeve I have has hex head (about 1.5" across the flats) that locates into the steering wheel, and has an internal hole diameter of about 20mm, that mated with the previous column. So I may have to get a new hex sleeve made to fit the steering wheel and mate with the column. I have a couple of options:-

1) get new sleeve made with a hole 22.5mm diameter (no splines) that simply slips over the shaft of the column and then roll pin (x2) that in place. Question, would roll pins be a good idea in this scenario? I'm worried about the roll pins gradually closing through time and failing.

2) do I go the whole hog and get new sleeve made with 22.5mm diameter internal splines that simply slips over the shaft of the column and then roll pit that in place?

3) source something that natively mates with 22.5mm splines?

Any advise welcome,..... no old jokes about steering nuts. K

 

[David]

Don't know about the 'C' but for using the 'B' the column is disassembled somewhat and the steering lock and the shroud down to the motor discarded. The shaft that comes out of the motor is spined onto which slides the rest of the column (this is so the column can compress in an accident, it's held in place by plastic which can relatively easily be broken).

Anyway, the method I've used is to take this piece, weld a length of CDS to it and then weld the splined piece for the quick release to the end.

As ever a picture tells a thousand words so:

The motor (sorry its from the wrong end), you can just see the (white) plastic ring on the splined section.

Then on there goes this (taken before I pressed it together and welded it up).

And finally the shaft in place

HTH

 

[James Harvey]

Sorry for jumping in here, but may be relevant for Keith too.... David - have you found anything suitable to use for the plastic pin or did you manage to get it out without breaking it?

 

[David]

It isn't a pin. It looks like one from the outside but it's actually a groove in the inner spined section (similar to the kind of groove you see when a bolt is used to clamp onto a spined section) and then the two holes in the outer section. Plastic is then injected in and fills the groove and the holes in the outer giving the impression of a plastic pin passing though. I was going to experiment with melting some plastics see if I can't replicate the original.

 

[David]

Which of course means it is impossible to separate them without breaking it.

 

[James Harvey]

OK - cheers David. I'm thinking it might be easier to do away with this collapsible section and maybe go for a collapsible boss instead...

 

[David]

No, I'd leave it in. You don't need the plastic, you can rely on the grub screw on the spherical bearing to hold the shaft in place. Or TBH having thought some more just a some hot glue squeezed in would probably be about the right kind of 'hold it for normal use but break easily under heavy impact'.

 

[Keith Stafford]

Thanks guys, not sure I understand it all, only 'cos I'm blinkered to this issue. The C column seems to be a bit different the, anyway in my case I wanted the top bracket (wings) so left them on, however I removed the plastic top part and the cast alloy bearing housing (with the steering lock) the plastic was moulded around, this meant I had to get a new bearing housing turned up, second pic.





So what I am left with is a 22.5 splined shaft end which needs to mate with one or other quick release (QR) sleeve.



I can't seem to find a QR hub that has internal 22.5mm splines. options are, take the inner hub out of a Corsa C steering wheel and hope I can mate to it or get a one-of sleeve made.


K

 

[David]

Inner hub is magnesium alloy. Going to find it tricky to mate.

Have you got a lathe? You can manually broach splines although it's a pain to do.

Personally I'd weld the 22.5mm shaft end onto an quick release adapter.

The 'C' has the same setup as the 'B' in that there is the intermediate spline
(ignore the bottom column, that's from a Mazda RX7 and there because I stole^Wborrowed someone elses photo).

Take apart, weld on adapter, re-assemble. Simple.

 

[David]

Oh and while you've kept the wings and made a nice new bearing block the spherical bearing way is *far* easier.

 

[Keith Stafford]

Thanks David, I don't have a lathe, I get all my turning done in a workshop which has the advantage of professionals doing it, the disadvantage that any design iterations are time consuming.

Does the top part of the column (with the wings) just pull up and apart, is this the portion held in place with the plastic insert, which if it is, I now fully understand the above?

Would you advise against the use of pins, say roll pins to mate the QR hub to the top shaft?

 

[David]

I don't know the top column (with the wings) attaches on the 'C', on the 'B' it's bolted on but in the picture I found of the C it looks like slide in. It looks like there isn't quite the same setup on the 'C' and the end of the column should just slide off (with some encouragement).

I wouldn't just use roll pins, they're fine to prevent something from coming off but not suitable for this kind of application where they'll taking all of the steering force and will wear and break leaving you with no steering.

 

[James Harvey]

Hi Keith

If it was me I'd weld it in place rather than pinning it. I've seen other quick release hubs where as part of the kit, the centre spline is provided and you just weld it onto the steering shaft. eg....

Deluxe Splined Q/R Steering Hub - Black

 

[Jim Cowden]

With the collapsible slip in the shafts I pumped into mine with a hot glue gun after having to play with a few things.
It has not moved at all.
I checked out the design on the break away when I had it apart, The glue does exactly the same job as the plastic, it fills an inner and outer groove and the injection hole is common to both.

Keith have you considered other types.
I have done a few, I dont like the one you have because you can never service the top bush or pull the column apart if required.

The one in the pick is what I use and it is very good.
I made a 5 mm steel disk with the pcd to suit the top hat.
I then got a 2nd hand steering wheel from the scrap yard and cut the splined boss out of it.
I drilled the disk and put the boss through it and welded both sides.

Rapfix 2 is very much the same thing I paid about $100 OZ
Works Bell -- USA | RAPFIX II

It is also short ,you dont have the room in these cars to be bringing the wheel to close to you.

Jim

 

[Keith Stafford]

Thanks guys, I was/am reluctant to use roll pins, as I was worried that as the outer QR sleeve is not splined, the torqueing left/right would close the pin(s) and it/they would fail. I have no issue welding the sleeve on, the only issue is taking it off again to maintain or replae the column.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Keith,
Go with the weld. That is what I did with mine.

As you can see I had them drill a hole and drop a plug weld to the top of the shaft. It is welded at the end as well. This assures you nothing is going to give. The adapters to the steering wheel are cheap and can be replaced if you ever decide to replace the column. If our cars were everyday drivers then I can see them failing once in a while(not everybody's does).
Be sure you check the placement of the steering wheel. Put your seat belts on as you would drive and add a length needed to get it as close to you as you want. My old column cost me a painful shoulder because I didn't take in to account the harness(6 point) pulled me back into the seat causing me to have to reach for the steering wheel. The adapter I choose for this column put it exactly where it should be, and it has not bothered the shoulder since. The key lock was done away with and I decided to trim the plastic pieces left and leave them on the column. They will serve as guides for the cover that is still to be made. I have been sidelined with several issues for the winter, one is the need for a paint job which I built a booth in the garage and have gotten the primer on and could not get it finished due to a hernia operation last week. But all will be done by Spring. So position the wheel where you want it and put a spot weld at the bottom. Try it out to see how it feels. If satisfied finish the weld and be done with it.
Haven't had much time to check with you ,but how are the controllers coming along? Any setbacks/revelations??

Bill

 

[Keith Stafford]

Hi Bill, the controllers are at production at present, in fact I am purchasing another Corsa column to test them, because I now have mine in the car, linked to the rack, so am reluctant to take it all apart again. Having said that, if I weld, then it is sure to come out. I hope to have the production batch of controllers in the next couple of weeks, as soon as I have tested it, yours will be on its way. All the best for now, i'll be in touch as the controllers arrive with me. K

 

[James Harvey]

TBH having thought some more just a some hot glue squeezed in would probably be about the right kind of 'hold it for normal use but break easily under heavy impact'.

With the collapsible slip in the shafts I pumped into mine with a hot glue gun after having to play with a few things.
It has not moved at all.

Cheers guys - sounds like a good plan.