taillights
- Thread starter Bob D
- Start date
I agree that because our cars are small and low to the ground the more light coming out the back the better. Four lit lights are better than the one of the stock housing, but if nothing else at least one can install LED based 'bulbs' into the stock version for brighter light (the other 'light' nacelle is just a reflector and back up light). The AM LED shown in this thread will be an improvement and show more lighted area doing so from two nacelles. Looking at this particular light I can see from here it will not be a drop in replacement due to a noticeably different contour of the lens cover.
Grant I agree this is a one off and am proud to drive it, because everywhere I go out of the hundreds of people I meet with the car only 2 people have recognized it. I just wish Fran would include a little help with some of the parts when you go to figure out how to install it. I am always working on the car even after I finished it, mainly fixing things that fail because it either was not installed properly or it was not a quality part. Sometimes I do get frustrated with the car when things keep breaking and it is new parts. It is the running of the car when you find the problems, some are repeat type and most are new. I will say out of all the cars I have owned this one is the most exciting and the most work to keep running. Mine is a street car but I tell everyone it has the temperment of a race car, and I do track it. It must be the one-off type that appeals to me the most, its just keeping it running is the challenge, and we are getting there.
Yes, dodge sells just the connectors - they were bloody expensive, like $80 for all 4, but whatever.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Here is a source for the connectors that is cheaper. I bought two of these trailer wiring kits to collect all 4 connectors. Price was about $50 shipped
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-42205-1991-1995-2004-2008-2007-2008/dp/B0002Q7ZFU"]Hopkins 42205 Plug-In Simple Wiring Kit for Dodge Minivans 1991-1995/Dakota 2004-2008/Ram 2007-2008 : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]
Keep in mind that the connectors are included with the ISIS wiring harness.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-42205-1991-1995-2004-2008-2007-2008/dp/B0002Q7ZFU"]Hopkins 42205 Plug-In Simple Wiring Kit for Dodge Minivans 1991-1995/Dakota 2004-2008/Ram 2007-2008 : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]
Keep in mind that the connectors are included with the ISIS wiring harness.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Once you cut the four connectors from the rest of the trailer wiring kit (which is now garbage) you are left with the connectors that plug into the lamp sockets as supplied with the lights. I am not using the ISIS wiring so I had to buy the 4 connectors for the Dakota lights.
My Dakota tailights are made by "Eagle Eyes".
My Dakota tailights are made by "Eagle Eyes".
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I think you get spade connectors, not actual dodge pigtail connectors. The spade connectors will work but won't be weatherproof or a completely locked connection, but will work - kinda like the Ricardo starter....after years of searching I gave up and just used a spade connector, haha. It's crude and not as secure as the proper pigtail, but whatever.
Ok the LEDs showed up here what they look like.I have them just sitting in there so they are kinda crooked. if you haven't cut into your covers yet to fit lens that Fran sends you then you will be ok. They fit the same in the rear clip opening, but not exactly in the cover I will have to do some glass work to make them fit exacly but they should look really good in a finished car.
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Do the LED taillights require a resistor or any modules to work correctly due to the change in impedence from a regular bulb?...I know I have run into this in the past with motorcycle lights...
Ken Roberts
Supporter
The C6 Corvette guys need to install a ballast resistor when they convert to LED bulbs. If they don't add the resistor than the signal lights flash too fast. It's important to note that these ballast resistors run hot so mount them carefully.
Thats what I was expecting to hear...thanks Ken.
That's true for the Corvettes- but not true for SLCs running ISIS. No resistors are needed to run LED lights of any kind when you are using the ISIS system. The blinking logic is not a product of resistance when using ISIS, as it is in traditional load-based flasher modules.
I didn't even think about that......thx Will.
Me Likey,,,,,, guess I just added $250 to the budget...lol.
Thanks for the pictures Grant,, You were right, they do look good.
That being the case, I'm going to have to see if something like these fit.
2005-2011 Dodge Dakota Tail Lights - IPCW LEDT-404CB - IPCW LED Tail Lights
I have a pair of these bnib I'm not going to use if anyone is interested.
The need for a resistor goes beyond the blinking. The very nice guy that runs the company (ISIS). . . Jay I think. . . told us that a resistor MIGHT be required because ISIS sends a small amount of continuous power to the lights for diagnostic purposes, and that some lights are so sensitive that this minimal load causes them to glow.
Just to let everyone know, the taillight did not crack from the wreck, but we discovered the bottom fiberglass was broken just below the taillight which did not happen from the wreck, we think something came up and hit the fiberglass and taillight breaking both, it is a mystery break don't know when or how it happened, we will fix it though.
I think this is typically an issue mostly for warning LEDs, not "normal" lights. The very low current that ISIS uses to do a constant continuity check (which is really a cool feature, BTW) normally doesn't cause even an LED to glow. But even if they do, it is so weak as to usually unnoticeable. You certainly wouldn't confuse it, when you can see it at all, with a powered lamp.
It's only when it becomes an issue to the owner that adding more resistance to the circuit is needed.
