tornado V mda kits
- Thread starter gt40power
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Mark
Go and visit them. Ask all the awkward questions. Use your eyes as the proof. Don't believe anything until YOU see it. Tornado have been around making 40s for years and years. MDA are the new kids on the block, with no built and running cars yet - but JPs is close I think.
Also go the local meetings. You will find lots of good points to be said about both. What matters is what you SEE.
Go and visit them. Ask all the awkward questions. Use your eyes as the proof. Don't believe anything until YOU see it. Tornado have been around making 40s for years and years. MDA are the new kids on the block, with no built and running cars yet - but JPs is close I think.
Also go the local meetings. You will find lots of good points to be said about both. What matters is what you SEE.
Lynn Larsen
Lynn Larsen
Mark,
Since you have time. Just sit down and do a search on both Tornado and MDA from time to time in different areas. As you read, at your leisure, you should be able to develop some insights into how these two companies are viewed.
I don't think you are going to find too much that is very negative about either one. As customers we sometimes have rediculous expectations. As vendors, they try their best to do the impossible and keep everybody happy and have a life on the side. Anyone is going to piss off someone, sooner or later (good thing too: that's why there is a GT40 and a Lamborghini. Just happens the same guy pissed off two different people
so you may find a B&M here and there, but nothing to amount to much.
Anyway, both Andy and Mark have been around here as long as the GT40s.com has been around, so I am sure you can find more than enough fodder for your fertile imagination to come up with some sort of picture of each. Have fun!
Lynn
PS: B&M = bitch and moan
Since you have time. Just sit down and do a search on both Tornado and MDA from time to time in different areas. As you read, at your leisure, you should be able to develop some insights into how these two companies are viewed.
I don't think you are going to find too much that is very negative about either one. As customers we sometimes have rediculous expectations. As vendors, they try their best to do the impossible and keep everybody happy and have a life on the side. Anyone is going to piss off someone, sooner or later (good thing too: that's why there is a GT40 and a Lamborghini. Just happens the same guy pissed off two different people
so you may find a B&M here and there, but nothing to amount to much.Anyway, both Andy and Mark have been around here as long as the GT40s.com has been around, so I am sure you can find more than enough fodder for your fertile imagination to come up with some sort of picture of each. Have fun!
Lynn
PS: B&M = bitch and moan
Lynn Larsen
Lynn Larsen
Marc,
In the meantime, get some practical experience. Have you ever rebuilt an engine? If not, see if you can find a 302 in a breaker's yard, clean it up, take it apart bit by bit in a very methodical way. Box things up as you go; starting with the exterior accessories, then the induction (carb, throttle body, manifold(s)), Then the heads with the valve covers, rocker arms, pushrods (keep these very organized numbering them according to the cylinder they came from.) What, you don't know how the cylinders should be numbered? Well look it up on the web or get one of the many "how to build a ford v8" type books that are mentioned here on the forum. One of the first things you need to be able to do is get the No. 1 piston at TDC on compression (not exhaust.) Be saving your pennies while you are doing the outside stuff and by this time you should be able to buy an inexpensive engine stand (I just bought one for my R302 block for $40USD) and mount the block on it so you can flip it upside down and start tearing into the bottom end. Again, be very organized: keep the oil pump stuff together and keep the other stuff together by cylinder. Once you get the rod caps off cleaned and ordered, flip the block side ways and push each piston/rod assembly out. You can take the lifters out now too, if you didn't take them out once you had the heads off. You should know what the timing cover is by now so take all of that stuff off now. (If you don't know what something is, figure it out before you take it off!) Pull the timing set off and remove the cam. Bye the time you get to this point you will be amazed at how much you have learned about an internal combustion engine and the various methods engineers use to fasten things. Almost everyone of them is based on one simple concept when looked at in its finest elemental form - a ramp (or inclined plane as the books will call it, but which has been around as a ramp or its other form, a lever, since not long after man discovered how to put something in his mouth a see if he could eat it). Most of the rest are based on the most modern of technologies: the spring (its only been around since man learned to bend a stick and make a bow.)
Now take the block to an automotive machinist to measure, repair and hone as necessary. When he gives you the numbers (and that is all I am going to say at this point), gather together the replacements for the wear parts and any upgrade parts you need, get out your "how to build a..." book with all of the torque specs, hints and tips and put it back together again using the surprisingly few tools you will need to pick up with your saved pennies after buying the engine stand, which you will thank God that you bought one, especially now. Once you get the engine back together with the distributor in the right way round you will be well on the way.
Now go out and buy a book entitled "How to wire a Hot Rod."
I think you get the idea. Once you have finished this one, you'll be ready to start building a car. If you have enough self confidence, maybe you bought a beater to drive around in and fixed it up, maybe you can go straight to a GT40, but that is a pretty big jump. If you aren't sure, try something a little simpler the first time out, like a Locost roadster or a Cobra. While not child's play, they are a little more straight forward.
Good Luck and hang around 'cause there are a LOT of talented people on this forum.
Regards,
Lynn
In the meantime, get some practical experience. Have you ever rebuilt an engine? If not, see if you can find a 302 in a breaker's yard, clean it up, take it apart bit by bit in a very methodical way. Box things up as you go; starting with the exterior accessories, then the induction (carb, throttle body, manifold(s)), Then the heads with the valve covers, rocker arms, pushrods (keep these very organized numbering them according to the cylinder they came from.) What, you don't know how the cylinders should be numbered? Well look it up on the web or get one of the many "how to build a ford v8" type books that are mentioned here on the forum. One of the first things you need to be able to do is get the No. 1 piston at TDC on compression (not exhaust.) Be saving your pennies while you are doing the outside stuff and by this time you should be able to buy an inexpensive engine stand (I just bought one for my R302 block for $40USD) and mount the block on it so you can flip it upside down and start tearing into the bottom end. Again, be very organized: keep the oil pump stuff together and keep the other stuff together by cylinder. Once you get the rod caps off cleaned and ordered, flip the block side ways and push each piston/rod assembly out. You can take the lifters out now too, if you didn't take them out once you had the heads off. You should know what the timing cover is by now so take all of that stuff off now. (If you don't know what something is, figure it out before you take it off!) Pull the timing set off and remove the cam. Bye the time you get to this point you will be amazed at how much you have learned about an internal combustion engine and the various methods engineers use to fasten things. Almost everyone of them is based on one simple concept when looked at in its finest elemental form - a ramp (or inclined plane as the books will call it, but which has been around as a ramp or its other form, a lever, since not long after man discovered how to put something in his mouth a see if he could eat it). Most of the rest are based on the most modern of technologies: the spring (its only been around since man learned to bend a stick and make a bow.)
Now take the block to an automotive machinist to measure, repair and hone as necessary. When he gives you the numbers (and that is all I am going to say at this point), gather together the replacements for the wear parts and any upgrade parts you need, get out your "how to build a..." book with all of the torque specs, hints and tips and put it back together again using the surprisingly few tools you will need to pick up with your saved pennies after buying the engine stand, which you will thank God that you bought one, especially now. Once you get the engine back together with the distributor in the right way round you will be well on the way.
Now go out and buy a book entitled "How to wire a Hot Rod."
I think you get the idea. Once you have finished this one, you'll be ready to start building a car. If you have enough self confidence, maybe you bought a beater to drive around in and fixed it up, maybe you can go straight to a GT40, but that is a pretty big jump. If you aren't sure, try something a little simpler the first time out, like a Locost roadster or a Cobra. While not child's play, they are a little more straight forward.
Good Luck and hang around 'cause there are a LOT of talented people on this forum.
Regards,
Lynn
i fully intend to stay around here, but since the cost of building a gt40 is going to be about 30k, which is going to be more than i make in a year for a good while it can only be a dream, and proberly never will happen.
but no harm in dreaming thanks for all the advice, i wont find a 302 in a breakers yard here
but no harm in dreaming thanks for all the advice, i wont find a 302 in a breakers yard here
Mark
Don't be surprised when you are ready to buy a GT40 replica
that your choices will be very different. Companies come
and go with alarming frequency in this business.
Meanwhile, joining one the UK Clubs should be a given.
Their experience dates longer than many of the current
manufacturers. Good luck.
MikeD
Don't be surprised when you are ready to buy a GT40 replica
that your choices will be very different. Companies come
and go with alarming frequency in this business.
Meanwhile, joining one the UK Clubs should be a given.
Their experience dates longer than many of the current
manufacturers. Good luck.
MikeD
Lynn Larsen
Lynn Larsen
Mark,
OK, take out 302 and insert a Rover V8 then or a Ford 2.3 - 4 cyl. or "insert cheap internal combustion engine of choice here". The idea is the same. If you want to kill 2 birds (the kinds with wings, not Bristols) with one stone, find a car that you wouldn't mind driving with a bad engine and a very low cost. Maybe something like this £212.00 Spartan on eBay:
Rebuild its motor and have good cheap transportation in addition to a great learning experience. Maybe you can drive if for a bit and then sell it for £700 and buy something a little nicer and do it again. Perhaps you would work your way up to a GT40 before you know it. The point is, don't sit around and dream of the day. I started looking at mid-engine V8 powered cars in 1969 and didn't buy one until 2000. Such is life. So, you can't afford a GT40 now, well get yourself ready for the day when you can! "Every journey starts with the first step," so the old adage says. Well, several of us have tried to give you some good first steps. Only time will tell where you end up. But, again, good luck.
OK, take out 302 and insert a Rover V8 then or a Ford 2.3 - 4 cyl. or "insert cheap internal combustion engine of choice here". The idea is the same. If you want to kill 2 birds (the kinds with wings, not Bristols) with one stone, find a car that you wouldn't mind driving with a bad engine and a very low cost. Maybe something like this £212.00 Spartan on eBay:
Rebuild its motor and have good cheap transportation in addition to a great learning experience. Maybe you can drive if for a bit and then sell it for £700 and buy something a little nicer and do it again. Perhaps you would work your way up to a GT40 before you know it. The point is, don't sit around and dream of the day. I started looking at mid-engine V8 powered cars in 1969 and didn't buy one until 2000. Such is life. So, you can't afford a GT40 now, well get yourself ready for the day when you can! "Every journey starts with the first step," so the old adage says. Well, several of us have tried to give you some good first steps. Only time will tell where you end up. But, again, good luck.
the think thethe gt40 i want it to be a pretty good replica, and for it to be able to be drive with a lot of spirt, which i dont belive a cheaper one would be posiable.
i had though about building something along the lines of a lugeo vientio or a similar locost style kit. the idea of buying a premade one and fixing it up hadn't occured to me, and does seem to be a good idea.
how much would a gt40 rep, from tornado or mda cost me at a basic level with buidling engine myself, sourceing box etc?
one thing i know will be a benifit i have completed a course at college on motor vehicle repair and serviceing so i do mind weilding a spanner.
thanks all you guys for giving me some help full advice instead of ignoreing me thinking i am some stupid kid!
i had though about building something along the lines of a lugeo vientio or a similar locost style kit. the idea of buying a premade one and fixing it up hadn't occured to me, and does seem to be a good idea.
how much would a gt40 rep, from tornado or mda cost me at a basic level with buidling engine myself, sourceing box etc?
one thing i know will be a benifit i have completed a course at college on motor vehicle repair and serviceing so i do mind weilding a spanner.
thanks all you guys for giving me some help full advice instead of ignoreing me thinking i am some stupid kid!
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Mark,
Are you a member of the Enthusiasts Club? I sugegst you join, and maybe have a look at the For Sale section in this edition....
Brett
Are you a member of the Enthusiasts Club? I sugegst you join, and maybe have a look at the For Sale section in this edition....
Brett
[ QUOTE ]
Are you a member of the Enthusiasts Club? I suggest you join, and maybe have a look at the For Sale section in this edition....
[/ QUOTE ]
Mark,
I agree with everything in this thread.
Please join the Club soonest, as the magazine is due out next week, and we aren't planning to make back-copies of this particular edition available retrospectively to new members.
Go to the GT40 Enthusiasts Club website, click on How to Join, download an entry form and send it in.
The Club will be able to help a lot, as it consists of many people with a passion for the GT40 and little cash.
It can also put you in touch with people local to you, who can answer questions and point out alternatives.
Are you a member of the Enthusiasts Club? I suggest you join, and maybe have a look at the For Sale section in this edition....
[/ QUOTE ]
Mark,
I agree with everything in this thread.
Please join the Club soonest, as the magazine is due out next week, and we aren't planning to make back-copies of this particular edition available retrospectively to new members.
Go to the GT40 Enthusiasts Club website, click on How to Join, download an entry form and send it in.
The Club will be able to help a lot, as it consists of many people with a passion for the GT40 and little cash.
It can also put you in touch with people local to you, who can answer questions and point out alternatives.
ran out of time to edit, so ill post new reply the gt40 if it is from mda, tornado or rf is a very complicated kit to build, so i really will want to get some kit car building experience, partly for fun like making stuff, but to get experience with working with metal and so on. also if i build a simpleish car such as a locost or other 7 style car. means that mistakes i make on that wont get transfered to the gt40, as it would really be a car that i dont want to have bits messed up on.
also the cheap route just sticking a boggo 302 in and more basic everything make the sva simpler as well.
sorry i am rambling i will shut up now
also the cheap route just sticking a boggo 302 in and more basic everything make the sva simpler as well.
sorry i am rambling i will shut up now
what i meant was that a standard engine would pass the sva better than a tuned version and standard egine is cheaper as well.
i meant to say about costs is that even the cheaper gt40's ,might have a rover v8 instead of a ford one, just a normal bucket seat instead of a gt40 replica one, and all those sorts of things.
from looking at the sites the mda kit looks very good, seems to use "better" bits over all, but thats just an impression. i have lots more reseach and planning to do
i meant to say about costs is that even the cheaper gt40's ,might have a rover v8 instead of a ford one, just a normal bucket seat instead of a gt40 replica one, and all those sorts of things.
from looking at the sites the mda kit looks very good, seems to use "better" bits over all, but thats just an impression. i have lots more reseach and planning to do
