Widebody RCR40

[Fran Hall RCR]

Dennis
Thanks... We waited more than seven months to get our last order of BRM wheels
Only as you mention for some to be incorrectly widened ... We are busting our behinds to get them sorted and shipped out asap

The front flares are an extra cost option

 

[Adam]

My wheels, (car delivered July ~3) are still missing as a result of them widening on the wrong side as well. Fran has always delivered on backordered parts, and I think he is working to make things even better.

Is your car a +2 or +4? Mine is +4 and I do not have front flares like you do? Was that extra?
Dennis

Car is +4. Fronts are maybe +1.5. The front flares were made by splitting the lip, folding them out, and glassing in between. It's limited edition, 1/1.

 

[Tom]

Dennis
Thanks... We waited more than seven months to get our last order of BRM wheels
Only as you mention for some to be incorrectly widened ... We are busting our behinds to get them sorted and shipped out asap.

Fran, is your supplier (Vintage?) able and willing to die cast a few BRMs in Magnesium? I think there would be a limited market for them, but the cost may be the deciding factor.....just curious.

 

[Ron R.]

It makes me happy you noticed those. Things that ugly should never go unnoticed.

Do you have matching "Doilies"?

 

[Adam]

Have done a couple things to the car. Did some rough fit of the rockers to get an idea of how the front wheel/tire package was going to work. I'm using Bluestreak 6.00X15's on 9.5" wide BRM's. That is going to be challenging and certainly require steering rack limiters to prevent body contact.

I also picked up a foam mock up block and installed a Canton 15-630 pan and 94-95 mustang water pump. I am thinking a serpentine belt setup with the reverse rotation pump. People (like Tom) had this design and it seemed to allow the engine to sit forward nicely.

I really digging into the engine research now. What I know is that I want a 331 or 347 Dart block with ITB induction. The more research I do the more doubt I have relative to configurations and whether I want to build from a long/short block or have the whole thing built complete. The biggest hurdle is what IR kit (Borla looks like a nice package) and what electronics. Can the EZ EFI 2.0 or Holley work for me or should I go with something completely programmable from the start???


And yes, the drapes are still hanging proud!!!!

 

[Dennis Newman]

Adam,
I am putting a Coyote in my car, but I spoke with Borla, FAST, Kinsler, and Jim Inglese on ITB intakes, and if you like Borla, I would strongly suggest you reach out to Jim. Out at SEMA I talked to the Holley guys, FAST guys and there are quite a few other options for managing the system. I run the FAST XFI system on my Shelby, I would be happy to talk to you more about what I have experienced and found. I am leaning towards Holley and am 99% sure I will order Jim's intake.
PM me if you want to talk live.
Dennis

 

[Jason Ferraro]

Don't forget the Haltech Elite 2500. I run it my Coyote in my GT40 and its a great system. I am biased though as it is Australian!

 

[Dennis Newman]

Don't forget the Haltech Elite 2500. I run it my Coyote in my GT40 and its a great system. I am biased though as it is Australian!

Correct, as I understand it Haltech, (like everything on your car ) is one of the high end systems in the market. Vaughn Gittin runs MoTeC on his 69 RTR drift car with a Coyote as well. Part of my assessment was to both find a system that works, and secondly, that there is at least one local tuner who can build a tune for you. The second is a little harder and may be more important, depending on where you live.

 

[Adam]

Adam,
I am putting a Coyote in my car, but I spoke with Borla, FAST, Kinsler, and Jim Inglese on ITB intakes, and if you like Borla, I would strongly suggest you reach out to Jim. Out at SEMA I talked to the Holley guys, FAST guys and there are quite a few other options for managing the system. I run the FAST XFI system on my Shelby, I would be happy to talk to you more about what I have experienced and found. I am leaning towards Holley and am 99% sure I will order Jim's intake.
PM me if you want to talk live.
Dennis

I will get in touch with you in the near future.

I want a system that allows an initial setup that gets me up and running without time on a dyno but allows enough adjust-ability to fine tune at some point. I have read (with limited knowledge of the installation specifics) that an 8 stack hooked up to the self learning EFi systems can be problematic. Motec and the sort are not going to happen for me.

Is coil near plug worth it??? I have a set of LS style Accel coil packs from a previous project. Does that paint me into a certain class of EFi system and a ton of other hardware and tuning?

 

[Bill Musarra]

Adam,
Going to coil on plug won't necessarily steer you in one direction. I started off with COP and no distributor with the FAST system(EFI and XFI). I ran into a problem with the system that I had a month or two after we got it running(not on the road). We never figured the problem out(it cost me 4 ring gears on the starter in one month), so I switched to a locked out distributor and central coil with an MSD box. The Fast system did the timing with a crank trigger setup. It would send a signal to the MSD box to fire at the proper time and the distributor sent it to the proper cylinder. There are some minor hoops to jump through to get the system right. The distributor for instance has to be phased properly so the spark doesn't bleed over to the next cylinder in the firing order(advance seting in the FAST setup). Easily done with another cap with a hole drilled in the cap to actually witness the phasing that is needed. When I did this, I did it without any help from my engine guy. It fired up the first time and has run flawlessly since. I just followed the advice from MSD through their video library and the info on the side of the box. If this isn't clear enough or you want more info, PM me.

Bill

 

[Adam]

Some progress.

Installed foam mock up engine and started creating engine mounts that are more reminiscent of the original. They are also more self-locating making them easier to hard mount once I pull the engine. I'll TIG weld them to finish off then move onto the mounts that actually bolt to the engine.

 

[Adam]

Got the engine mounts done and temporarily mounted in preparation for the fabrication of the part that connects directly to the engine. What I love about the RCR chassis is the simplicity and all the beautiful machined parts. Aesthetically though, I wanted to dress up some of the areas to bring an original feel back.

Another thing I wanted to address adding a little stiffness to the adapter plate. Some people have added support brackets that attached the bolt ears to the engine mount. I'm taking a different approach. Stay tuned.

 

[Adam]

So I wanted to anchor the adapter plate in a way that better tied the engine to the chassis and held the position for me to construct the motor mounts. The whole system is going to be solid mounted so we'll see how that works out. I don't mind the vibration as long as there are no mount area fatigue issues.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

The solid-mounted SBF mounted in my 240Z wasn't really noticable in terms of vibration. Barely noticable.

 

[Adam]

Got the solid mounts all finished up. Wanted them to be inspired by the original mounting systems but be a little beefier for "everyday" use.

I'm going to start on the rear original style subframe next. I have to get a hold of my axles to make sure I have proper clearance. I'm also going to make it a bit more modular than the original with sway bar mounts integrated.


I do like looking at RCR's chassis. it's rather cathartic looking at TIG welds and billet parts.

 

[Jason Ferraro]

Very nicely done, they look great.

 

[Adam]

Moved onto mounts for the rear sway bar. I wanted them to perform 2 functions. To obviously position the bar mounts but also tie the rear upper control arm mount to other things (eliminate the single shear on the 5/8" bolt). I'm going to use the 1/2" bolt that mounts the cross support to attach rear subframe down-tube...kinda like how the original cars connect their tubular subframe.

 

[Adam]

Finished mocking the sway bar assembly. I wanted to check that it all cleared the transmission. I do love the look of the 930 box. It has the vintage race look without actually buying a Hewland LG.

I'm using a 7/8" end X 28" long bar. It seems to package nicely and are available readily with the circle track crowd. I wanted to have more "off the shelf" options to help with build cost and long term attainability of parts.

 

[D. Nye]

Nicely done Adam, very similar to my solution. I'm with you on "off the shelf" parts, it makes it easier to change bar rates if needed in the future.

D..........

 

[Adam]

Question for the general audience. On the original cars what tubing wall thickness was used on the front and rear subframes? I know there was a mixture of 1" square and smaller tubing but I've never found mention of wall thickness.