Oil viscosity for Aluminum Dart block engine
- Thread starter jmcgalaxie
- Start date
I'd be looking for a dry sump setup before getting excited about oil grade, at 370 cu in your gonna have some windage issues with that wet sump on the alloy block. Been there/done that, the main caps do a good job of dividing the wet oil pan into four seperate cavities. Ask the camshaft supplier what oil he would suggest. Remember to take the alloy block and heads into consideration when setting valve lash, the block moves around quite a lot.
For street use, I think a good full synthetic 10w30 would be just fine. 15w40 full synthetic would be my likely choice for any sort of endurance or competition..
If it is a flat tappet camshaft and followers, I’d get some extra ZDDP (Zinc) in there Regardless of use (street or track).
If it is a flat tappet camshaft and followers, I’d get some extra ZDDP (Zinc) in there Regardless of use (street or track).
Bill Kearley
Supporter
I like Shell Rotela T4 15-40 , I put that shit on everything !!
Was the engine built by a third party, is it hyd roller or solid roller, could it have straight 30 viscosity. My go-to guy on cams hated synthetic oil on solid rollers as they 'skid' as the roller enters/leaves the lobe, hydraulics were OK as they maintain contact with the lobe. Rev kit is nice but have to be custom build on SBF. Thats why I asked if you were aware of the need to keep valve lash correct when hot.
Prestige is building a all aluminum Brodix BBC for me. Like Bill, they are using the Shell Rotella oil. Next to the last line on the estimate.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Thank you for those contributions. I got the information from the car vendor that the engine on my car was the one used to publish a report in Mustang and Fast Ford.
The difference with it is that the inlet is now done by a Borla injection with Accel electronic instead of a carburator.
I am not so sure it is the reality because on the report, the block is painted and on my car the block is aluminum color. May be it is similar. May be some of you know this publication from 2006.
The difference with it is that the inlet is now done by a Borla injection with Accel electronic instead of a carburator.
I am not so sure it is the reality because on the report, the block is painted and on my car the block is aluminum color. May be it is similar. May be some of you know this publication from 2006.
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Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Ok I will be the old one!!!!!!!
on a new engine Castrol R 40 and let it fully warm up before revving it every time. Worked way back and what a glorious smell to go with it
cannot switch between Castrol R and mineral or synthetic oils as they are not compatible…… any residue turns to gloop and so would involve complete engine strip down and clean before changing from the R to the mineral or back.
Ian
on a new engine Castrol R 40 and let it fully warm up before revving it every time. Worked way back and what a glorious smell to go with it
cannot switch between Castrol R and mineral or synthetic oils as they are not compatible…… any residue turns to gloop and so would involve complete engine strip down and clean before changing from the R to the mineral or back.
Ian
Glenn M
Supporter
Ditto, I have the same block built up by Huddart, he recommended that oil, it's done 30,000 mile on it. He did say with the aluminium block, to warm it up carefully and always get it fully hot before using high revs.
Howard Jones
Supporter
I am using Valvoline VR1-50 in my motor as recommended by the builder. I change it every winter so it gets about 2000-2500 miles of use per year. More importantly, the temp is controlled to 220-230F MAX! and the engine is not run above 1/3 throttle/3500 rpms until fully warm and not above idle speed until I see at least 160F on the oil temp gauge.
Question for you all. Do you know your oil temp? If not why not? Second question(s). How cold is too cold and how hot is too hot? You need to know these answers. Don't risk your brand-new big buck motor. Google is your friend on this.
Question for you all. Do you know your oil temp? If not why not? Second question(s). How cold is too cold and how hot is too hot? You need to know these answers. Don't risk your brand-new big buck motor. Google is your friend on this.
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Howard Jones
Supporter
Ok here:
xtra credit
xtra credit
