Lance's GT40 Australia Build

[Lance]

GENERAL

• Several people have asked me to supply a few more details about my car. These posts are in response to that. I’ve broken them down into topics so that the posts aren’t too large and so that, if there are any queries or requests for more details, it all doesn’t get too out of hand. I have doubled up on some photos, in case anyone hasn’t seen them before.
• I decided to build a contemporary version of GT103 after seeing a photo of it in one of my books. The burgundy paint and black wheels looked tough. My car is coming together, but it doesn’t look like much yet. There’s still a lot of work to go (it’s amazing how long the little bits take to find and / or resolve), but I’m getting there.

[Lance]

ENGINE / TRANSMISSION / GEARBOX

• When I noted that GT103 had the Indy motor in it, I decided to go quad cam as well. I looked at a few motors (Ford modular (too big and expensive), Porsche (too expensive), I was even offered a Ferrari V8! (now that would have been sacrilege)), but the 1UZ-FE Toyota V8 kept coming out on top in most comparisons. Compact size, low weight, modern technology, alloy, quad cam, quad valve, 6 bolt mains, cheap and easy to purchase, good references.

• The Bullet supercar people then came out with their supercharged 1UZ-FE powered sportscar and it seemed only reasonable to go that way. One of the guys working on my car had connections with the company and they very nicely helped us with information on my installation. For anyone that is thinking of going the same way, make sure you get the low fabricated manifold, otherwise it won’t fit. This was before the new GT came out with blown quad cam power. How did they find out what I was up to?
• The engine has been mounted low enough in the chassis so that the blower drive clears the cross brace at the bulkhead which in turn means the sump is a bit too low for peace of mind. Rather than modify the wet sump, we decided to convert it to a dry sump motor. We’re using a BDG pump for the scavenge circuit and the standard pump for the supply. The only mods are to the sump pan so that, if I ‘lose’ a motor, the bits can be swapped on to another block with no mods. We’ve pressed up a windage tray with louvres and gutted the standard power steering pump to convert it into a layshaft to drive the scavenge pump. Locating the pump was the hardest part of the exercise. There’s just not much room to spare. The usual locations didn’t work.
• The standard Soarer bellhousing was cut and a flange to suit the ZF gearbox welded on. Twin plate GT Falcon clutch inside. Central gear stick with a Lotus Esprit cable gearshift used. I believe GTD based theirs on this design. It’s quite a clever example of Chapman’s engineering in lightness.
• The catalysts will be modified and built into the fabricated mufflers. Each muffler will be D-shaped in cross section and bolted together to form an oval, then wrapped in heat insulation. The exhausts dump through 2 ½" pipes at the rear.

ELECTRICS

• As I’ve mentioned elsewhere on this forum, my view is that the biggest failing of any kit car is the dash. The car looks great, until you look at the dash, and it looks half built. I feel they should look ‘busy’. When it came time to do mine I went for plenty of instruments and switches in order to get an aircraft cockpit quality about it. I’m using Smiths Telemetrix instruments, Rover toggles with MkII Jaguar blades, engine start button from Demon Tweeks with audio control knobs to match for AC control, hazard and Bluetooth phone connection. I’m using engraved plastic labels for the switches. They’ll be silver to match the instrument bezels with the engraved names showing in black. Everyone that’s seen it likes it.
• I’m using an AP500 cruise control by Command, Paralyser 785 alarm by Dynamco complete with door remotes, battery kill switch mounted in a glove compartment between the seats.
• I’m installing a reasonable sound system. The head unit is inside the passenger door controlled by a remote control with an infra red repeater on the dashboard. Amp behind driver’s seat and 6 speakers. Subs in the doors (only place with enough volume), tweeters and woofers in the footwell side trim panels. I’ll be interested to see if I can hear it over the ‘music’ coming from behind the bulkhead.
• I’m mounting some courtesy lights in the doors to give any oncoming traffic a warning of the width of the doors and to light up the ground around when alighting. I’m also mounting a couple of red lights under the rear clip so that, at night, people will be able to see the mechanicals inside (I stole that idea from the Ferrari Enzo).

FUEL SYSTEM

• As the fuel tank pick up points are so close to the engine in a GT40 (unlike most cars), we’re proposing to use dual submersible high pressure pumps and circuits with no low pressure pumps. The pumps will each be in a surge pot / sump which the return circuits will dump into. This simplifies the fuel system, but retains full redundancy.
• Fuel level sensors are by Turotest and will also live in surge pots for damping. They will probably be electronically damped as well.

[Lance]

BODY

• I’ve always liked the look of the wide rear body, but this wasn’t an option when I purchased my car. I’m widening the body to suit the 335 Pirellis and black Simmons FZ17 wheels and it looks great. The photos don’t do the wheels justice. The most common word used is: "Stunning".
• The front clip vents will all be used. The wing vents feed fresh air into an under dash plenum which supplies the cockpit and AC / heater system. The central vent will feed cool air into the area under the front clip to stop heat build up.
• I’m going with a single nostril front vent. It will incorporate a shroud to seal behind the radiator and fans.
• I like the look of the cars with the full size round driving lights. The biggest I could fit into mine were 135mm diameter. I note that other cars have used 150mm diameter driving lights. In true GT40 fashion, they must all have different sized nacelles, because this size wouldn’t come close in mine.
• I’ve used side indicator repeaters for front indicators and have replaced the globe holders with 21W types. It’s amazing how nice they look in your hand and how small they look on the car. I don’t know if I’ll get them passed, but nothing bigger (that was the right shape), would fit so I’ll see how I go.
• The supercharger front pulley sits between your shoulders. I’m installing a Perspex window in the alloy bulkhead so that it can be seen from inside the cabin, noise permitting. Seeing the engine spin up so close to their shoulder should stir up the passengers .
• I wanted a particular look for the wing mirrors. They had to be door mounted and with good vision past the wide rear guards. I also wanted them to be rectangular with rounded corners. After much research I am using the mirrors from a Porsche 911SC of around 1980 vintage. They are visually a bit chunkier than I had in mind due to the rubber surrounds, but this won’t ‘read’ with the burgundy body colour I’m using. They’re alloy, designed for high speeds, electric and heated for those of you from cold climes. Note that they come in right and left hand drive versions.
• The motor is too lovely to hide, so I’m looking at opening up the clip area under the rear window, so that it’s on display a bit more. This will be sealed off to help keep cool air at the air filters as far as possible.

[Lance]

CHASSIS

• As I’m 1.9m tall, but didn’t want a Gurney bubble, I had an extended footwell built into the chassis. This also allows adjustment access to the pedals from under the front clip. I’ve gone with Tilton floor mounted pedals in a custom pedal box. I was going to use an aluminium cover plate but, as the pedals look so nice, I thought to go with a Perspex cover, so they’re on display.
  
• The steering column has been raised as far as possible, in order to get over my feet. This was achieved, although it then clashed with the wiper motor, which had to be moved around and a new bracket made.
  
• I’m dropping the driver’s seat as far as possible, while still keeping the underside flush. The seat is raised at the front for thigh support and the angle means that the seat can be lowered by removing one rib and chamfering the top off the next one. The seat rails will stiffen up the structure.
  
• The seat has been lengthened and modified to suit my body. I’m a wide body model, so the driver’s seat has been installed about 50mm to the left. This helps reduce the pedal offsets and gives better room for the handbrake on the right hand side of the seat. The passengers’ room is restricted a bit, but I take the view that they’re lucky to be there and must put up with what’s left! We’ve taken an effort to make sure the seat back is parallel to, and hard up against the bulkhead to maximise the room inside and for entry.
  
• I’m installing a removable steering wheel to make it easier to get in and out of, therefore, I didn’t want a horn button. I’m using an XD Falcon upper steering column which fits on to the Toyota lower steering column. All the controls (Ford Escort) are stalk mounted.
  
• A roll bar has been added to the rear and will be braced back to the chassis.
  
• Once everything has been welded, cut and drilled as required, everything will be removed from the chassis and it will be blasted and painted with two pack epoxy.

RUNNING GEAR

• Simmons FZ17 rims are used, all in black with alloy spinners. I looked at a pin drive conversion, but just couldn’t justify the cost.
  
• The standard Corvette front brakes have been replaced with larger rotors and twin piston calipers. The old front calipers have now been installed on the rear as calcs showed this was best for the weight distribution, etc. Not too many people would even pick it.
  
• Porsche CV joints are to be used to mate the commodore axles to the ZF gearbox.
  
• I work in the offshore oil industry and checked with the materials guys for advice on suspension coatings. Based on their advice I had the suspension trailing arms and other components electroless nickel plated. It’s a durable coating for the use and the frosted look gives it an alloy appearance.

[Lance]

OTHER SYSTEMS

• Rather than the standard DRB demister / fan arrangement, an heating element has been placed in front of the AC unit in the duct to the cross beam. This is heated by water from the engine. Hot air can be directed into the cabin and / or windscreen. A valve in the engine bulkhead controls the water flow. The AC fan drives all cabin air; hot and cold.
• Vents have been placed in the underside of the cross beam facing forward to blow air into the footwell so that any heat build up is avoided.
• Fresh air from the supply plenum can be ducted both through the AC / Heater unit and directly into the cabin so that some fresh air is always being introduced.

• The standard Holden Commodore radiator has been converted to dual pass to put both connections on one side to help clear the shroud. A bleed point has been installed at the closed off connection, which is the high point for the radiator. I’ll see how it goes and may go for an aluminium radiator next time round. ,The fans and shroud are from a Ford Mondeo (I think), but the late model Falcon twin fan unit will also fit.

• The floor will be made up of 50mm of insulation sitting on the steel floor with another, probably timber floor sitting on top. Instead of running the water pipes through the cockpit in a tunnel, they are run side by side between the seats and along the steel floor, so they are hidden and the floor area is open for legs. This ‘floating floor’ is scooped out around the pedals as required for my feet.

FUTURE

• The Ford GTX1 is not to everyone’s taste, but it is to mine. Once I have mine licensed and have a few miles up on it. I’m going to start looking at cutting off the roof. I believe it can be done to be pretty much completely reversible to retain the standard hardtop coupe look.
• I’m a bit concerned about getting caught out with speed bumps (the curse of modern society). I note that the Ferrari Enzo has a jacking system to lift it 50mm for this reason. I’ve looked at various air shocks, etc, but don’t like any of them for a performance car like the GT40. What I’m looking at now (and I don’t know that it will work) is to use the anti sway bars to jack up the car. The idea is that the entire standard suspension remains unchanged, so no effect on handling, but helps jack up the car a bit when the air rams are actuated. I’m just starting to do the calcs, etc now. I’ll keep you updated.

[JackW]

Awesome threads Lance. Sounds like you are mixing a few original ideas with some more traditional ones. I look forward toseeing how your build goes along. There is a GT40 inthe UK that someone has taken the roof off. I am sure there will be a few of the poms reply with more details when they get out of bed.

I couldn't agree more with you about the dash being a make or break part of the car. Wheels look cool. Keep up the great work on your build.

Cheers

Jack

[Bill Musarra]

Lance,I like the layout of the cooling pipes. A little different. Does that arrangement measure out to be the same width as the original tunnel. Hope so, cause that may limit you on seat selection.

Bill

[WesS]

Lance, I am also planning to do something like the gtx1. as soon as i get my rcr40. i plan to make the roof removeable, similiar to the gtx1. i purchased an extra rear deck to work on. extra doors too. i am having trouble with the lexus 4.0L 1uz engine fitting! too tall. any ideas? i know they are popular in Aussieland. help would be appreciated. love Perth. played tennis at Kings Park and ... Nice place.
wes

[Bill Musarra]

Lance,
I notice you went with the Tilton double pedal setup. What did you use for the accelerator pedal?

Bill

[Lance]

BILL

The water pipes are wider than the tunnel, but this is acceptable because they can now fit under the raised edges of the passenger seat. I’m using the fibreglass seats that came with the kit. It all fits OK, even with the seats, etc all being mounted to the left in the cockpit.

I purchased the Tilton pedals only and we fabricated the pedal box and accelerator pedal.

WES

We didn’t have any problems with the engine. The engine was mounted as low as practical in the chassis, in order to keep the CoG low and we worked to a dimension required to clear the blower snout under the chassis cross member up front. The sump stuck down too far, which is why the engine has been converted to dry sump, and the bellhousing protrudes about 12mm below the chassis. Although it’s between the wheels, it will be covered with a bash plate, for a bit of extra protection. I’ve seen them mounted higher than mine.

Chassis differences may be an issue. These photos were taken when I had the stock engine sitting in the chassis. The engine mounts even lined up. We just shortened them to suit.

I’m not sure if that helps at all, but if you’d like any particular information, I’d be pleased to help out. Just let me know.

Lance

[WesS]

lance,
thanks for the reply. did you build the exhaust? or buy. or can you let me know who built it so i can email him? engine looks good sitting there. did you have to modify the rear deck at all to fit the engine? i may have to modify my slightly, not sure yet. i really want to use that engine. actually i want to use the 4.3L engine. then sleeve it and go from there.
thanks for the help.
wes

[Bobski]

Hey Lance,
Are you going to put rego on your car? Because I looked at using the 1UZ motor as well and getting it regestered first then putting twin turbos on it later. The idea was scraped when I was told by 3 engeneers that there was no way of getting it regestered here in NSW. (Lost some dollars on that motor!) Rules may be different in other states.
Bob.

[WesS]

lance,
i need that exhaust you've got. where can i get it? was it made in australia? or made specially for you? either way, i need one like it. let me know when you get the chance. thanks for your help.
wes

[Lance]

Wes,

Sorry that I haven't responded to your query sooner. I have a couple that I need to do and just not enough time. I'll be glad when they bring in the 27 hour day. I could really use the extra time.

My exhaust system was made by a local pipe wizard here in Perth. I delivered the car to him with some instructions on what I wanted and he went from there. I wanted it to hug the motor a bit and to be as low as possible. I didn't have to modify the engine cover, but the cross brace was lowered to suit. He's done a great job.

The wizard spends most of his time out in the bush prospecting for gold and comes to Perth to bend a few pipes to pay for his next trip. We had to catch him between expeditions.

I feel that it would not be practical to make a set long distance with any probability of success. He really needs the chassis / engine to work on. I can try to find out where he is and ask if he's interested, but I have major doubts about the whole exercise.

It seems to me that you would be better to find a pipe bender closer to home and get him to work directly on your car. I'm happy to send some photos to work to.

Please let me know.


Bobski,

I understand that the rules do vary between states to some degree. I've been told (and I hope they're right) that my motor will be acceptable. I'll find out soon enough. Watch this space.

Regards,

Lance

[Peter Olliviere]

Lance,
I noticed that your pipes are welded at the collectors, how hard are they to put on or take off.

Peter

[Lance]

Peter,

The photo is deceptive. The collectors are actually slip ons, not welded. The pipes also have individual flanges at the other ends in order to allow fitting.

Lance