Frank's KVA Build - Page 11

Phil · 02-12-09, 10:27 PM

Frank:
Looking good for just picking up the TIG torch.
A couple of suggestions that may help you get some better quality welds.
When you weld a panel as in your #2 photo, start with the cold panel and weld in from the ends about 1/2", then as you approach the edge from the other direction you wont have that melt-off that you are getting.
If your machine has a balance control for the arc profile try welding in balance mode, this will put a little more positive time in the arc cycle, and be a little harder on your electrodes, but at the current you are using it should not be a problem, and weld quality will be better.
I am assuming you are using a pure tungsten "green" electrode. These are great for AC but try some 2% ceriated electrodes "yellow", you can sharpen these to a fine point, and you will get better arc control with a smaller arc, also it will maintain its sharpness with a good amount of current.
I don't know what size electrode you are using, from the size of the welds looks like a 3/32 diameter. Try a 1/16 electrode, you will get smaller welds, and need to use less curent, but the result is a much nicer looking weld.
See if you can't get a gas lens for your torch. This will concentrate the shielding gas and gives really nice coverage in the weld area. You can extend the electrode quite a way out of the cup to get to those tight corners, and a little more extension on the electrode will let you better see the process.
Try and back up some of those panels with a thicker plate if possible to soak up some of the heat while welding.
When you are finishing a bead back off the current slowly and add a little filler rod, this will prevent "Cratering".

You are doing such a good job on your project, and I would bet you will get this mastered easily. I hope some of the things I mentioned will help you with the project.
Keep those photos coming.
Good luck
Phil

I LOVE GT40- Paolo · 02-13-09, 05:30 AM

Grande Frank!
Hope u will be on the road soon!, maybe for summer?

frank beuker · 02-13-09, 12:28 PM

thanks Phil
this surely helps
as I'm new with this type of welding i come up with a couple of things
-the material has been lying around for about 25 years so i sometimes have to do better cleaning
- Although i don't drink that much (once a week a or two whiskey's) i have to try to keep my hands steady

I'm using a tungsten 2mm at 90 amps 120 frequency balance i think 23 this is what eddy (who is very helpfull ) and i saw on the miller instruction dvd
i allready asked for a gaslens i think they have to order it eddy told me that there also should be a glaslens
I'll keep on trying and wil keep on posting pic's

Paolo,
Mayby if you can come over and help me a coouple of months with work and the car.....lol
I hope to get the car finished before summer next year
I know that all the little stuff takes more time than you calculate (and i'm not there yet)

frank beuker · 03-04-09, 06:08 PM

The welding is getting better also thanks to your tips Phil
started on the panneling at the back and decided to change fixed engine mounts on the chassis to removeable ones
so first i had to cut away the engine mount , made the panneling and welded it together
And it looks ok next thing is the right side and than the new mounts

Bill Musarra · 03-04-09, 09:53 PM

Frank,
I had to basically teach myself TIG. Had done stick and gas, but it was many years ago. If there is a guy in your area that is accomplished in TIG, talk to him and even get some torch time with him there. If not take some samples of your techniques to him. Lap, butt, right angle etc. He can give you a ton of advice just looking at it. I found the lap welds the easiest, butt the hardest. I put my car through some weird positions in order to get the panels flat or near flat. Vertical welds were also very hard. Had to get the guys to finish some of the welds that would stand out. I tacked them, they finished them. Just keep on practicing, and practicing.

Bill

frank beuker · 03-05-09, 10:48 AM

Bill
it's just as you say ....practice,practice,practice,practice,.........
but it's getting better

frank beuker · 03-07-09, 09:19 AM

did the other side and made the base for the engine mounts
and going to weld the into place now

frank beuker · 03-07-09, 11:34 AM

made a mockup of the enginemounts going to make them out of sheetmetal i think 2mm

frank beuker · 03-10-09, 06:40 PM

made a few pieces of the mount

EGLITOM · 03-11-09, 03:55 AM

Frank

very nice work !

Those 2mm sounds small to me. My RCR has a 5mm sheet thickness there. The over all stability with your boxed design would be probably ok, but i just have the mounting bolt in mind slowly working out the bolt hole.
I would at least make the base and side plates out of 3- 4 mm sheet. The boxing plates you could well keep in 2mm.

May be more experienced scratch builders can give there input on that.

TOM

Andy Green · 03-11-09, 04:28 AM

Frank,
I agree with Tom, even if the mount is boxed in, the fore/aft loading from braking/acceleration is taken through a 2mm section. Look at your second photo posted 7th March. Use at least 4mm steel
Keep up the good work
Andy

Eddie · 03-11-09, 06:19 AM

Frank,
Double up on the sides & weld them together..voila... 4mm. side walls ...you can also...weld large washers to the bolt holes & further strengthen the mounts. See you on Saturday.
Cheers Eddie.

frank beuker · 03-11-09, 02:28 PM

I was planning on making strips at the side to double them up so good to hear you're thinking the same

Molleur · 03-11-09, 02:38 PM

I would use the doublers and weld large washers to the bolt holes. Belts and suspenders needed here.

frank beuker · 03-11-09, 06:55 PM

I'm going to work on the mounts next saturday and keep you posted of the progress

Eddy sorry didn't see the last note but see you on saterday
cheers
frank