Oil in Audi 016 transaxle
- Thread starter Chris Liokos
- Start date
Hi Chris
Sorry to hear you had gearbox troubles.....
What happened with the gearbox?
I know that it happened at Winton while you were having a ball racing, but it is a worry that something went wrong with the box on your first outing.
Is it now fixed?
Just wondering if there was an issue other users could possibly be made aware of... besides, I'd love for you to come over so we could go for a spin, so I'm hoping all is now well /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Bill.
Sorry to hear you had gearbox troubles.....
What happened with the gearbox?
I know that it happened at Winton while you were having a ball racing, but it is a worry that something went wrong with the box on your first outing.
Is it now fixed?
Just wondering if there was an issue other users could possibly be made aware of... besides, I'd love for you to come over so we could go for a spin, so I'm hoping all is now well /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Bill.
Hi Bill,
I gave the box to RF to fix and they discovered a very very worn synchro in 3rd, causing the selector fork to jam... which was also badly worn. Everyone is scratching their heads to try and explain it at the moment.
I am confident in my own mind that it wasn't my driving (heal-and-toe in this car is beautiful and always seemed to match the engine-to-road speed well) and I am confident that the the box design is not at fault as Daryl was racing on the day with the same box and a far more powerful engine (400hp+... and it wasn't his first time on the track).
Unfortunately, the box was one of the first items that I bought during the build so its at least 5 years since it was built and the builder has long since moved on from RF.
As for whether its on the road yet, the car is assembled havng only to add the oil when I discovered that the plug required a 17mm allen key that I don't have (and neither does Repco or Auto Barn or Bunnings). Looks like I'll just have to wait until the specialty tool shops to open on Monday morning to finish the job. I won't be hesitating to put it on the track again (soon) and I'll keep you posted.
I gave the box to RF to fix and they discovered a very very worn synchro in 3rd, causing the selector fork to jam... which was also badly worn. Everyone is scratching their heads to try and explain it at the moment.
I am confident in my own mind that it wasn't my driving (heal-and-toe in this car is beautiful and always seemed to match the engine-to-road speed well) and I am confident that the the box design is not at fault as Daryl was racing on the day with the same box and a far more powerful engine (400hp+... and it wasn't his first time on the track).
Unfortunately, the box was one of the first items that I bought during the build so its at least 5 years since it was built and the builder has long since moved on from RF.
As for whether its on the road yet, the car is assembled havng only to add the oil when I discovered that the plug required a 17mm allen key that I don't have (and neither does Repco or Auto Barn or Bunnings). Looks like I'll just have to wait until the specialty tool shops to open on Monday morning to finish the job. I won't be hesitating to put it on the track again (soon) and I'll keep you posted.
For those interested, I may have an answer to the unexplained wear problem in my 3rd gear synchro. It seems that the shifter mechanism can be fouled by the webbing (best description I can think of) on the upright gearbox mount if not adjusted correctly. If it does in fact touch the webbing lightly, I suppose that it can appear to be in gear, while the webbing is actually keeping it slightly out (against the synchro). Not knowing a great deal about the actual operation of these gear boxes, can anyone confirm if my conclusion is plausible?
Chris
those synchros act sort of like a brake, or more to the point a speed equalizer. When you select a gear and the collar slides towards the teeth on that gear it must first encounter the synchro ring, the inside shape (usually tapered) grabs the boss on the next gear as you push them together. Since the sliding collar has engaged the synchro first they are moving at the same speed, and the pressure going into the next gear brings the whole assembly into equal RPM. When you go into nuetral the synchro theoritically floats, if you are in any part still engaged in that synchro it will wear fast. Most are a bronze alloy. I would check the dogs that position the synchro, and usually there are spring loaded rings under the dogs to keep everything in place (either in gear or neutral). The dogs form a detent when the collar slides over the gear selected. Sounds complicated but it actually works quite well.
Hope this helps
Phil
those synchros act sort of like a brake, or more to the point a speed equalizer. When you select a gear and the collar slides towards the teeth on that gear it must first encounter the synchro ring, the inside shape (usually tapered) grabs the boss on the next gear as you push them together. Since the sliding collar has engaged the synchro first they are moving at the same speed, and the pressure going into the next gear brings the whole assembly into equal RPM. When you go into nuetral the synchro theoritically floats, if you are in any part still engaged in that synchro it will wear fast. Most are a bronze alloy. I would check the dogs that position the synchro, and usually there are spring loaded rings under the dogs to keep everything in place (either in gear or neutral). The dogs form a detent when the collar slides over the gear selected. Sounds complicated but it actually works quite well.
Hope this helps
Phil
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