New Fuel Control Valve

This Fuel Valve product was developed for use in high and low pressure fuel system.

The Valve provides a simple plumbing solution in duel pump or multi-cell situations. It is also an excellent choice when used in a redundant pump and/or regulator applications.

Although it greatly simplifies plumbing installation, it does not interfere with flow characteristics. It always allows for an open loop thereby eliminating any heat soak issues.

It is currently available in –6 and –8 sizes. Dealer inquires welcome or available directly racer net.

Visit for a <u> <font color="blue">Performance Fabrication </font> </u> for all the details.

Any pricing?

Also this is similar to a part that is available from Kinsler Injection. This is I'm guessing 2 check valves in the body. I was proposing this as 2 check valves with a TEE to do the same thing but it has a draw back that unless you are running closed loop or have exactly the same psi to the rail you will may have potential A/F issues when you switch pumps (however not too likely). It also does not solve the problem for many cars that use (or need to) a single 'Swirl Pot' or fuel reservoir to overcome problems associated with the long skinny gt40 tanks. I guess for a carb'ed motor would be great, or if you run 2 reserviors. Hmm, how much for the -8's?

Sandy

I am running a carb with a mechanical fuel pump and two tanks.
Will this valve work for me?
Thanks

I don't think so. I the idea is that you have 2 electric pumps push to its own regulator (EFI or Low Pressure for Carb) and each can have a return line to the correct tank. Then the outputs of the regulators are conntected to this device (a special check valve) then the output can go to the carb or efi fuel rails. Then to switch tanks you just turn on one pump and the other off. The check valve block backwards flow into the 'Off' regulator and pump side of things. This would work great except for the fuel slosh problem which is much more critical for EFI cars. Carb, have the built in reserve (float bowls), but for EFI cars the resivour has to be either in the tank or an external one.

A lot of this is covered in one of the other threads but Fran may have come up with the best idea... Just use one of the tanks. Yeah, I didn't like that either!

Any reason for keeping the mech. pump?

Sandy

First of all allow me to mention that I have been in the racing business for over 35 years. I do not offer products and services that do not work. Development of this valve came about because nothing on the market fits this application (Kinsler valve included). Hundreds of hours of road, track and dyno testing went into this project with nothing but positive results. This valve was originally developed for an EFI proto-type race car using a redundant pump setup. Similarly, a customer with a GT-40 sought our help because of a poorly designed duel tank setup. We found this to be another application.

If fuel slosh is your problem, you need to have a properly designed system from pickup, pump, etc., etc. We used “Swirl pots” and reservoirs back in the 60s & 70s.Technology today has no use for them.

Because this valve is pressure activated, fuel supply is constant (unless you run one tank dry). No air/fuel changes occur even under full throttle load.

I do not find it appropriate to quote prices online, so kindly email or contact us for any info at http://www.pfracecars.com

Ron,

Sorry, with engine driven pumps our valve will not help your situation. To avoid an extremely complicated pickup system, you might consider in-tank pumps. This would not only resolve your problem but solve supply issues as well.

If you need further information, kindly email or contact us for any info at http://www.pfracecars.com

Ron -

Didn't mean to imply at all that your part won't work. Just doesn't solve all the issues. Having tanks that are are not made for EFI in-tank pumps leaves a couple of problems, one is they don't often have any internal reservoir around the pickups so on hard braking/driving the pickups will get air. Having both pumps on will not help in some conditions as well (straight line braking in the GT40s, low fuel levels, etc). So you have a couple of options, reservoirs or fix the tank to include them. I can't do much about the tank, so now it's a different problem, compound that with 2 tanks and the control of return fuel from the regs and reservoirs, pumps to the reservoir(s) and its a mess.

For a daily driver GT40 might not be as bad of an isssue, for a track car different story.

Again not at all slaming the part, just have more problems to solve then that.

Sandy

Hi Ron

Just visited your website to view the valve, but am still a bit confused re installation. The diagram shows two pressure regulators feeding a fuel rail, presumably there is a third regualtor at the end of the rail that is used to hold the rail to the desired pressure? or do you have no addtional returns to the tank(s) and the fuel remains static in the fuel rail until it is required, being held to the correct pressure by the two regulators shown which would preset (equally) to the required pressure??

Please confirm operation..

Thanks.

Paul, No additional returns or regulators are needed. Follow the schematic and you'll have a reliable solution. Your second question in the post is the correct idea.

Ron

Hi Ron,

Welcome aboard There's a lot of very enthusiastic guys here all with the same obsession (at least that they'll admit too). I'm sure your input will be welcomed on any topic.

About your valve, neat piece. I had to study the application for a while to appreciate the simplicity of the set-up. Hey, I'm all for reducing the number of parts, plumbing, complexity and improving servicability and reliability.

There are lots of vendors/sources that will tell you to run return lines and a swirl pot after the fuel rails. Additionally on a dual tank setup there's the getting the fuel from and back to the correct tank. Hence the plumbing nightmare... been there done that.

So I appreciate where you're going on this setup if I buy into a returnless (after the injectors) system. Many new OEM applications are now returnless and this makes sense to me.

As for the in-tank configurations, all race car or decent replica thereof should have adequate baffling to prevent starvation on the pickup and airation on the returns. This is not always the case and in-tank pumps on a GT40 also becomes a bigger service issue on an assembled car as yanking the tank completely out is the only way to get at the pumps, pickups and filters if buried in the tank. Such is the nature of the beast.

Still I like what you're doing and the Fuel Control Valve should be considered when planning out a fuel system in a GT40 project, well done.

Cheers

[ QUOTE ]
you have no addtional returns to the tank(s) and the fuel remains static in the fuel rail until it is required, being held to the correct pressure by the two regulators shown which would preset (equally) to the required pressure??


[/ QUOTE ]

Understood! - thanks Ron.

Is it just "old school" thought that the fuel must run thru a regulator after the fuel rail, then back to a tank?

Do the injectors get the same presure condition regardless if the regulator is before or after the fuel rail?

Seems the opinion is that the fuel presure won't be the same and constant for all eight injectors if the regulator is before the rail. Does it really make a difference?

If the fuel rail diameters are large enough there will be little to no pressure drop in the rail and thus all injectors will see the same pressure. With high pressure (EFI) I would guess vapor lock would not be an issue.

Thanks Gary, I respect you input here.

My 427\351w ally Dart motor is ready for the dyno this week. I am going to suggest this valve set up with my engine builder. I like the idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Just to pass on some information we have experenced.Sence most GT-40's will see track time,some concederation on pump/fuel line size must be applied. Long pulls down straightaways (such as we have at pocono)will experence fuel starvation if you do not have enough supply. This does not always show up on dyno runs.Larger is better here! If you are producing big horsepower and running high-flow injectors you will need to add fuel dampners to your rails. These injectors produce enough impulses themselves to influence rail pressures. Your engine builder/tunner should understand this phenomena. But in the end keep it as simple as possible.