Hey Jim, I like your idea. I'll be honest we did not consider a reverse mount solution! Maybe this will help someone else though in the future.
Columbus Ohio RCR40
- Thread starter nvoort
- Start date
Still fighting with the fuel system layout... It has been quite a challenge to get fuel tank fittings that fit well. Finally we found some 90 degree fittings that barely clear. The opening in the chassis for the fuel tank had to be increased. It used to have ~0.25" lips on the top and bottom and now they are flush.
This is a photo before trimming the top and bottom to be flush. Looks like I forgot to take an after photo.
Finished mounting the remote oil filter mount. Happy with how this came out and the rigidity of it. There are two mounting points on the trans case. One is hard to see in this photo as it is behind the filter. The accusump will be on the other side of the transaxle now so this works out great.
Decided to make a rear transaxle mount as well. After going back and forth on all the different options we decided to make a steel bracket that grabs this rear feature of the case. I added a strip of steel to the back side of the aluminum here to help give it extra strength... probably overkill... The OEM mount was in an inconvenient location, and is completely in the way of the exhaust. I cut it off (roughly) as its not needed anymore. Of course later I will go back and clean it up. There is much more space for the exhaust now as well. It's funny to be honest the original intention of the bracket was to give the trans more support, but it's remarkable how much it helped stiffen up the rear of the body. A nice bonus from adding this part.
This is a photo before trimming the top and bottom to be flush. Looks like I forgot to take an after photo.
Finished mounting the remote oil filter mount. Happy with how this came out and the rigidity of it. There are two mounting points on the trans case. One is hard to see in this photo as it is behind the filter. The accusump will be on the other side of the transaxle now so this works out great.
Decided to make a rear transaxle mount as well. After going back and forth on all the different options we decided to make a steel bracket that grabs this rear feature of the case. I added a strip of steel to the back side of the aluminum here to help give it extra strength... probably overkill... The OEM mount was in an inconvenient location, and is completely in the way of the exhaust. I cut it off (roughly) as its not needed anymore. Of course later I will go back and clean it up. There is much more space for the exhaust now as well. It's funny to be honest the original intention of the bracket was to give the trans more support, but it's remarkable how much it helped stiffen up the rear of the body. A nice bonus from adding this part.
Starting to prep for building the exhaust.
I decided on 1-3/4 tubing. I shopped around for a plastic mock-up kit like ice engine works but the prices on them are insane.... Instead I took an afternoon to order a ton of 12mm magnets for $12 and model my own blocks. Now I am printing them for ~$0.20 each. So far it seems to be working well. Going to start with 2.0" CLR and change as needed.
I decided on 1-3/4 tubing. I shopped around for a plastic mock-up kit like ice engine works but the prices on them are insane.... Instead I took an afternoon to order a ton of 12mm magnets for $12 and model my own blocks. Now I am printing them for ~$0.20 each. So far it seems to be working well. Going to start with 2.0" CLR and change as needed.
I have the fuel system mocked up with really old compressed air hose that was laying around, similar to what we did with the coolant system. We almost started making AN lines, but decided to double check anything else that might get in the way. I am glad we did because we almost got ahead of ourselves...
Now the shifter cables, parking brake cables, and brake lines are installed mostly.
The shifter cables stay out of the way nicely of the accusump, still glad we checked. They neatly wrap around the rear of the transaxle, eventually I will build a clamp of sorts to keep them tucked better but the rear clip thankfully has a surprising amount of clearance back there down low.
The cables route behind the remote oil filter mount and go along the frame to the spine of the chassis
I am not happy with how close the parking brake cable ended up to the shifter. There is barely enough room to wrap your hands around the handle as is, creating a center console around this area will be a nightmare! I wish the shifter cables were longer but we will have to figure something else out.
Heres the parking brake cables ran through the rear bulkhead before I had the shifter cables routed.
They come out just above the spline and have these nice 90 degree fittings.
These brackets worked out nicely as well.
The parking brake calipers needed bolted to the hubs next.
Thankfully the drilling and tapping went well without a mistake.
Now the shifter cables, parking brake cables, and brake lines are installed mostly.
The shifter cables stay out of the way nicely of the accusump, still glad we checked. They neatly wrap around the rear of the transaxle, eventually I will build a clamp of sorts to keep them tucked better but the rear clip thankfully has a surprising amount of clearance back there down low.
The cables route behind the remote oil filter mount and go along the frame to the spine of the chassis
I am not happy with how close the parking brake cable ended up to the shifter. There is barely enough room to wrap your hands around the handle as is, creating a center console around this area will be a nightmare! I wish the shifter cables were longer but we will have to figure something else out.
Heres the parking brake cables ran through the rear bulkhead before I had the shifter cables routed.
They come out just above the spline and have these nice 90 degree fittings.
These brackets worked out nicely as well.
The parking brake calipers needed bolted to the hubs next.
Thankfully the drilling and tapping went well without a mistake.
I also did some more planning of the exhaust system.
I did a little reading and double checked how a bundle of snakes would apply to the LS engines 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 firing order.
Looks like the middle two cylinders of each bank will have to cross over.
I know, I know, I am a darn good artist. Behold my latest masterpiece:
I did a little reading and double checked how a bundle of snakes would apply to the LS engines 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 firing order.
Looks like the middle two cylinders of each bank will have to cross over.
I know, I know, I am a darn good artist. Behold my latest masterpiece:
D: Drivers side P: passenger sideNick
Nice artwork
I am studying the exhaust system also, planning my header build. Can you help a beginner with an explanation of the "D" & "P" That has me a little confused,
thanks
Paul
PaulProe
Supporter
Nick
That just came to me this morning in the shower. Your confirmation set me on a 'next step' I've been studying the concept of the siphon effect of exhaust collectors. If I've read the threads correctly, it isn't a big game changer but every little bit helps. Seems if you align the primaries correctly in the collector, it creates a swirl effect in the exhaust which helps extract exhaust just a little more.
With the info I've collected on this forum, I took your spreadsheet and image and added some additional info. I've converted it to 'Ford' since you are running an LS. I also converted the collector data for the LS and added it to your sketch. I am hopeful some of the more knowledgeable guys will chime in and advise if this is done correctly or if I've made an error in the details.
Chevrolet LS | Late Model SB Ford |
For the record, these are some of the links that I've garnered this info from:
Am I on the right track?Paul
Hey Paul, I read about that as well. I also read mixed things about the effectiveness. If it's convenient I may try to implement it but I won't stress if the routing is more convenient another way.... thanks for sharing!!
Good news, after getting creative with the shifter cable routing the shift unit was able to slide significantly forward. This provided some much needed relief from the parking brake handle. The parking brake handle is bolted in now, but we made some minor modifications to the bracket. The handle gets in the way of the cables as is, and it was offset to be on top of the shifter cable body. We flipped the top bracket 180 degrees so that the rectangular hole is on the drivers side instead. Then drilling new holes allowed mounting it. This gave even more relief for the handle. For now we have a few washers spacing it over even further but we may undo that down the road.
![IMG_3018[1].JPG](https://www.gt40s.com/attachments/img_3018-1-jpg.136068/ "IMG_3018[1].JPG")
We couldn't resist trying out the seats. They feel great, but it is hilarious how snug two passengers fit in these cars.
![IMG_3016[1].JPG](https://www.gt40s.com/attachments/img_3016-1-jpg.136069/ "IMG_3016[1].JPG")
I didn't take any pictures, but we also mocked up all the brake lines and clutch line.
With these in the car that mostly finished off all the "defined" parts that could get in the way of any planned fuel lines/ coolant lines/ oil lines. That meant that we can now have the confidence to make AN hoses for everything and nothing will come up (hopefully) down the line to force us to remake them.
The coolant lines went in without a problem. So far we are really impressed with Jegs brand AN fittings and hoses.
![IMG_3019[1].JPG](https://www.gt40s.com/attachments/img_3019-1-jpg.136070/ "IMG_3019[1].JPG")
![IMG_3024[1].JPG](https://www.gt40s.com/attachments/img_3024-1-jpg.136071/ "IMG_3024[1].JPG")
![IMG_3023[1].JPG](https://www.gt40s.com/attachments/img_3023-1-jpg.136072/ "IMG_3023[1].JPG")
Next up are fuel lines and oil lines!!! Things are getting exciting as the project seems more and more like a real car.
We couldn't resist trying out the seats. They feel great, but it is hilarious how snug two passengers fit in these cars.
I didn't take any pictures, but we also mocked up all the brake lines and clutch line.
With these in the car that mostly finished off all the "defined" parts that could get in the way of any planned fuel lines/ coolant lines/ oil lines. That meant that we can now have the confidence to make AN hoses for everything and nothing will come up (hopefully) down the line to force us to remake them.
The coolant lines went in without a problem. So far we are really impressed with Jegs brand AN fittings and hoses.
Next up are fuel lines and oil lines!!! Things are getting exciting as the project seems more and more like a real car.
Did anyone else notice these engines have the same firing order, just a different numbering system and start point?
Looking good Nick I see you have been making good progress.
PaulProe
Supporter
Little known fact, but it is true.
Tim Collins
Supporter
Nick, do you use cad? I designed and built my headers in cad. Then I plotted full scale templates. Bought all needed stainless bends, cut on band saw, and welded together. Worked perfectly. I have the cad for your engine, if interested.
I do use several different types. What format of a file do you have? and is it a 5.3 LM7 truck block?
I have a 3D scanner so I certainly considered scanning the engine and modeling it in CAD.. but obviously decided to try something else first.
Tim Collins
Supporter
Anyone can get 3D cad for almost any GM engine if you're a SEMA member. If you give me your email, I can send a link for a step file you can download. Once you are able to open the engine file and manipulate, I can explain how to design headers using purchased mandrel bends.
G96/01! TBD how well it performs. I went for a limited slip as well.
Tim, your design work is amazing. I need some advice with my exhaust headers on an LS. Would you mind giving me a call? 904-716-2020 anytime. Thanks. Mark.
