switches from SPF

They are junk, sorry to be so blunt but seems they could have put a few more pennies into a better quality switch. I have already had to replace 2 of them. Have any of you changed out these switches and what have you found for replacement that has better quality that looks as good?

Jack,

Sadly, 'cost-down' is the password for all businesses these days - not just SPF is affected. I shake my head at some of the decisions that are done to save even 50 cents... the recent thread about Ford water pump impellers is a classic example.

For what it's worth, the addition of a small relay in the circuit might help with the life span of those fragile bits... or at least that's the logic I used with the wiring of my RCR. If you need a few and find them overpriced in your neighborhood, let me know. I can pick them up real reasonable.

Best,

T.

Hi,
Which switches are you changing, or should I say, what died? Maybe the fuel pump switch? Symptom..the car suddenly dies; flip the fuel pump switch and it is ready to go again?
Regards
Grady

Jack,

Most of the switches control relays so there shouldn't be a great electrical load on the contact.

Which switches failed and how did they fail.

Thanks, Steve

Dutton thanks for the offer but I found a source www.delcity.net they have a big selection of switches. Steve and Grady, the first switch to die was the fuel pump switch, the back just fell off, thank goodness I was in my garage when it happen but when I was driving back from Little rock a couple months ago the car just died on the hwy then took off again, I am sure it was that switch. The other switch was the spare switch which was used for the mondal lights on the doors, I used that switch to control a small pump to circulate water through the heater core. The third switch that failed but I repaired was the blower motor speed switch, the contacts were bad due to high current flow through it, this is a prime candidate for a relay or a electronic motor speed control for the blower. I am going to change them all out sooner or later due to there construction they are doomed to fail with usage. Just my thoughts. I don't need the lights going out on me driving down the road at night.

P2164 said:

I don't need the lights going out on me driving down the road at night.

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C'mon, where's your sense of adventure? This is all to be expected--after all, you're driving an authentic replica of a BRITISH car! :laugh:

Mike Drew said:

C'mon, where's your sense of adventure? This is all to be expected--after all, you're driving an authentic replica of a BRITISH car! :laugh:

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I would put Lucas switches in front of these Mike. If I can find the one that fell apart I will post pictures. They must have had a bulk buy at cheapo depo. :laugh:

Jack,
I remember my 'adventure' with an Austin-Healey ignition switch electrical fire behind the panel. And the Jag V12 that would just stop because of electrical problems.
I see that McMaster-Carr also carries high-Amp swiches 16, 20, and 30 amps at 30VDC. They all have metal toggles and not the plastic. I need to look at mine and try to match the toggle lever. Olthoff has new ones, same company. Some new cars come in DOA fuel pump switches. They R&R the switch. I'm told the 16 amp is good to use as the switch is hooked to a relay.
Steve, now that I'm through with the ISO 2001 re-certification, I have some time to call. Let me know when is good for you.
Regards
Grady

You might try West Marine or Defender Marine for high-quality, high-amp toggle switches. They may not look like Lucas switches, but they won't work like them, either. As in, they will work.