Dave,
I think I have a little more than what you want. However, you will need some of these features. Take a look at what I have then read my thoughts.
This is a rotating remote oil filter adapter. This is a good thing to think about. It allows you to tilt it any way that is needed. This will make up for any mistakes in deciding the length of the oil lines. If you don't have room for the filter in its stock location, then you will have to make it remote. There is a distinct in and out. You don't want to reverse these. Considering what you want, this is not what you should get, but similar. There is a sandwich plate that the filter mounts on and there are two lines coming off of it to go to the cooler. They usually drop the oil filter from 1/2" to 1.5" lower. So check for clearance.
What you will need weth this, is a built in thermostat that will open when ready to have flow to the cooler. The better ones will shunt oil flow back to the engine til hot enough. Then to the cooler. Like here.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-502erl/overview/
Some of the cheap ones don't have a thermostat.
Now you have to make some decisions as to how do you plan to use your car. Is it going to see track time?. If the answer is yes then you have some other stuff you need to think about.
This gets a little involved but it is some things to think about.
To oil filter- This is the line from the adapter to the remote oil filter. The adapter is a 4 port piece. Two in and two out. I use the first outlet to the
oil pressure gauge. T'd off of that is a
low oil pressure switch. This switch can be at any level of pressure you want. I chose 10#. When the oil gets lower than 10#, it shuts power to the fuel pumps and thus kills the engine. You can't be watching the gauges all the time. If you don't have a baffled oil pan, and you are in a high speed long turn, or a loose oil plug dumps your oil for instance, it can spell disaster. The second "oil in" hole is for a
second thermostat that runs the fan to the oil cooler. I have it wired two ways and can turn the fan on with a switch or the thermostat if I forget. The second
oil out goes to the remote thermostat. This thermostat allows some oil to get to the cooler and some back to the engine. Once hot enough it opens and sends oil only to the cooler. Saves on thermal shock from the cold oil to the engine. The oil that is coming from the cooler goes through the thermostat and goes through a
one way valve to the engine. This serves two purposes. One it keeps the oil flowing only in one direction as it goes to the cooler. No back flow. The second purpose comes when oil pressure drops in the engine like the incidents mentioned earlier. I have an 'Accusump"
oil accumulator that, when the oil drops to around 20#(you determine what the level is), the accumulator pumps 3 quarts of oil into the engine to try and stave off the low oil pressure. When the oil pressure comes back to normal, the oil is automatically pumped into the accumulator. If it continues to stay low then the low oil pressure switch cuts the power to the fuel pumps and saves the engine(in theory). The Accusump is plumbed into the line returning to the engine and after the one way valve to make sure the oil goes to the engine. Some guys like to use it as a pre oiler before starting the engine. You can wire the valve with the ignition switch to open when it is in the run position for that.
This is a bit more than you need, but it is something to think about.
Bill