Hi Jim
Would use stainless steel ones. Give Fran a call, he has a company making them for us ( standard on RCR), likely they can make a set for you as well following your templates.
TOM
1149 Mono Replica
- Thread starter jimbo
- Start date
Hi Jim
Would use stainless steel ones. Give Fran a call, he has a company making them for us ( standard on RCR), likely they can make a set for you as well following your templates.
TOM
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
I am not certain a set for an RCR chassis would fit into a Mark I tub as I've got. And we have all the flex tubing ready to go in the car, some of it already in. I will try to replace it later on. Mostly now I'd just like to get the brake system together and bled and see if it all actually works....
On another note: the front and rear sway bars are in, appear to fit, and look like they're supposed to. We are missing a few nuts etc, but when those are on I'll put up a photo or two. Next the pedal box goes in (I deserve a three-day drunk for my travails on this but right now I haven't got time for it, I'll have to postpone it) and we hook up the brake lines and start sorting through that. Also the hydraulic clutch. Then the cooling system plumbing and then I am going to give the bodywork guys a free hand for a while again, I've held them up long enough. The bodywork is essentially half completed. Still hoping to drive in 2009.
On another note: the front and rear sway bars are in, appear to fit, and look like they're supposed to. We are missing a few nuts etc, but when those are on I'll put up a photo or two. Next the pedal box goes in (I deserve a three-day drunk for my travails on this but right now I haven't got time for it, I'll have to postpone it) and we hook up the brake lines and start sorting through that. Also the hydraulic clutch. Then the cooling system plumbing and then I am going to give the bodywork guys a free hand for a while again, I've held them up long enough. The bodywork is essentially half completed. Still hoping to drive in 2009.
Jim,
Your build is very interesting. It sounds like a labor of love . Keep the faith. It will be worth the effort . I'm looking forward to your maiden drive!
Your build is very interesting. It sounds like a labor of love . Keep the faith. It will be worth the effort . I'm looking forward to your maiden drive!
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Well, so am I. Getting the sway bars in was a big deal- not so much putting them in, but all the effort and time necessary to get to the point where they COULD be put in. You take all this stuff for granted with a kit or a roller. When you have to do it yourself, and get all the bits to fit, you begin to appreciate just what goes into the design of a car from scratch, even when you borrow technology that is already proven to work; you have to make it fit your application.
If I had the damn brake fittings today, I'd be putting in the pedal box. Of course they didn't show up, so maybe it will get done tomorrow. Then I can run some brake lines. Maybe
If I had the damn brake fittings today, I'd be putting in the pedal box. Of course they didn't show up, so maybe it will get done tomorrow. Then I can run some brake lines. Maybe
Jim,
I am sure that everyone on this forum is waiting for your first run. What a thrill that will be. For those of us who have not taken the plunge yet (still sorting options), we live our dreams through your perseverence. Keep up the good work. By the way, I envy anyone who builds a scratch GT40...now that is an accomplishment!
Garry
I am sure that everyone on this forum is waiting for your first run. What a thrill that will be. For those of us who have not taken the plunge yet (still sorting options), we live our dreams through your perseverence. Keep up the good work. By the way, I envy anyone who builds a scratch GT40...now that is an accomplishment!
Garry
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Frankly I ought to have my head examined for starting this. If they could find it, that is. I've been beating it against the wall with this project for so many years that I don't recognize myself in the mirror. "Who's that old bald guy with all the gray hair?" I say to myself.
However, on the bright side I now (courtesy of Pegasus) have all the fitting necessary to hook the brake lines to the pedal box, and with another hour or so we will have it in the car and bolted in. The screams of celebration will begin shortly thereafter.
However, on the bright side I now (courtesy of Pegasus) have all the fitting necessary to hook the brake lines to the pedal box, and with another hour or so we will have it in the car and bolted in. The screams of celebration will begin shortly thereafter.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Today we fitted the pedal box into the car. This required opening up a few holes which had somehow gotten smaller when the monocoque was painted (imagine that), but so far everything seems to line up as it ought to. We ran out of time to do anything else, but Monday we are going to be back at it, installing brake and clutch lines and figuring out where everything runs. It appears that sometime next week I am actually going to sit in this car, hold the steering wheel, put my feet on the pedals..........
.....and make noises like the engine running- since the wiring isn't in yet. Well, we all started that way, didn't we?
.....and make noises like the engine running- since the wiring isn't in yet. Well, we all started that way, didn't we?
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Pedal box bolted in. I am running hydraulic lines now, and figuring out where all the clips are going to go. Unbelievably, the bolts that hold the bottom of the pedal box in are 5/16" fine thread. The nut plates at the top are 5/16" coarse thread. You don't want to know how long it took me to figure this out; actually, I didn't, someone else did. However, it IS in and I hope to have the location of the hydraulic lines all sorted out by weeks' end. I should then move on to a new set of frustrations with the cooling system
Does anyone know where the throttle cable is supposed to run? I assume it goes in the same bundle as the hydraulic lines to the rear? It's about time to measure and order a throttle cable from Pegasus or Aircraft Spruce. Let me know if you have any info on this.
However, it IS in and I hope to have the location of the hydraulic lines all sorted out by weeks' end. I should then move on to a new set of frustrations with the cooling system Does anyone know where the throttle cable is supposed to run? I assume it goes in the same bundle as the hydraulic lines to the rear? It's about time to measure and order a throttle cable from Pegasus or Aircraft Spruce. Let me know if you have any info on this.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Some recent photos: these show the sway bars in, and hooked up, part of the old exhaust system in to check fit etc, and also the pedal box assembly in the foot well. We are starting to get the lines in although I have had to get some fittings I didn't have for them. Tomorrow to measure for the throttle cable and see how all that goes together.
Attachments
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Throttle cable in, although the cable I got from MCP fits perfectly, I am worried about the friction. It seems kind of high-effort. Can I just put strong return springs on it and figure it will work okay? I do not want to use a Bowden type cable.
Also got all the brake lines installed and clamped down. If anyone needs a source of an AN bolt and nut kit, Aircraft Spruce has a pretty good kit of them. They aren't cheap, but you get usable sizes from what I can tell.
Also got all the brake lines installed and clamped down. If anyone needs a source of an AN bolt and nut kit, Aircraft Spruce has a pretty good kit of them. They aren't cheap, but you get usable sizes from what I can tell.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Some progress: got the coolant tubes in and all connected. The SS tubes from Safir seem to fit quite well. We are working out the other plumbing for the header tank etc (see related thread in tech part of forum). Lots of help from Neil in UK who has one of the Safir GT40s, and kindly sent me photos of how they did all the bleed piping in his car. We have to have the header tank drilled and retapped- all the ports are 1/2-20 straight bolt thread, with no shelf for an O-ring or crush washer, so it would never seal. Not to mention the paucity of any kind of useful fitting in that size...I have no idea why they were made that way. Anyway, we will try to have the tank bungs drilled out and retapped to 3/8" NPT and then there are plenty of fittings that will work admirably.
Next, the dreaded hydraulic clutch, and then the rest of the bodywork, which doesn't involve me that much, the shop will do that themselves. And after that primer, wiring, fuel and a trail run, probably straight to a rollback which will bring me home after something stops working.
When they ask me if it's a kit car, I say "hell, no, it isn't. A kit comes with all the parts and instructions."
Next, the dreaded hydraulic clutch, and then the rest of the bodywork, which doesn't involve me that much, the shop will do that themselves. And after that primer, wiring, fuel and a trail run, probably straight to a rollback which will bring me home after something stops working.
When they ask me if it's a kit car, I say "hell, no, it isn't. A kit comes with all the parts and instructions."
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Kudos to Metalcrafts Engineering, who drilled out and retapped the header tank...now I can order fittings to fit Best selection seems to be Jeg's. Lots of fun looking through all this stuff..I think their hose is made by Earl's, but I have to ask them. Anyway, we should have the tank mounted before too long, and then start measuring and running header tank plumbing. Can't wait to see all these pieces in there, this feels like progress.
Best selection seems to be Jeg's. Lots of fun looking through all this stuff..I think their hose is made by Earl's, but I have to ask them. Anyway, we should have the tank mounted before too long, and then start measuring and running header tank plumbing. Can't wait to see all these pieces in there, this feels like progress.Ron McCall
Supporter
Looks like you are making great progress!! Won't be long before the first drive!!!
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
We are in the process of getting the header tank mounted to the righthand side of the rear bulkhead, in the engine room. Lots of headaches and false starts. Turns out we will have to modify the rear clip a bit once the tank is mounted; when it comes down it grazes the tank. The tank's mounting ears weren't the right length so we added some small aluminum pieces to bring the mounting points to a place where we can drill and securely get Rivnuts into the sheet metal. It appears that the mounting donuts I got from McMaster-Carr will work- amazing, something IS right. I should have expected this as the cooling system main tubes fit properly and that was a lot easier than it should have been....this is the payback for that, evidently.
So Tuesday we'll hopefully have a proper mandrel for the Rivnut tool so we can mount them, and and begin measuring for the hoses that I will have to order and make up. Also an overflow tank, cap, etc. I'll be a lot happier when the tank is sitting where it's supposed to be, and at that point I'll take a few more photos and post them.
So Tuesday we'll hopefully have a proper mandrel for the Rivnut tool so we can mount them, and and begin measuring for the hoses that I will have to order and make up. Also an overflow tank, cap, etc. I'll be a lot happier when the tank is sitting where it's supposed to be, and at that point I'll take a few more photos and post them.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
The latest:
1) the header tank is in- and if you need an inexpensive tool for installing Rivnuts, McMaster-Carr has them. The tank now interferes with the rear bodywork, which will now not come down and seat as it ought to- the tank is in the way. We'll modify the rear bodywork on the inside a bit to clear it.
2) we have all the items needed to complete the cooling system, except that the gooseneck (thermostat housing) isn't machined for a thermostat and the bypass has to be drilled out. So it's down the street at Metalcrafts getting all that done. After that we can make a gasket to fit it and install all that. I have decided to use a 165 degree thermostat to start with. All the rest of the hoses are here and seem to fit, and also a nice aluminum overflow tank from Jegs. The only question is going to be where to mount it. We're running out of space on the rear bulkhead, I'm afraid, and it needs to go somewhere. Haven't figured that one out yet. So when I get the gooseneck back, we'll try to fit all that together.
3) It seems appropriate, somehow, that the first of the three footpedals to actually DO something is the accelerator. Today I drilled out the throttle cable bracket, which is a nice black CNC-cut aluminum item I got from Jegs, mounted the throttle cable, and found that there is too much angulation between the cable clevis and the throttle control arm on the Holley carburetor. Instead of reengineering everything, I just bought a stainless 10-24 capscrew and nuts and used that to mount to the clevis. The pedal effort is a bit high, but it seems to return okay, with the two big springs on it, and it may become easier to push down as it wears in. ( I am deluding myself- this car is still months away from being driven. Perhaps I can hire someone to just sit in the seat for a few hours a day and push the throttle pedal down a few hundred times.) We could bleed and try out the brakes, but it's kind of early for that. And besides, the reservoirs are just held in by tie-wraps right now. They need proper hose clamps. So no point in filling anything until that is squared away.
4) an adaptor was made up by MC to permit me to connect a hose to the radiator upper air bleed fitting. That is also part of the plumbing we need to make up to get everything to work together and hopefully not leak.
5) I have located a paint shop near the assembly and trim shops which does beautiful work and would like to paint the car. We will do the fitting, primer and all the interior black paint, and they will spray the finish coats. Hopefully that will be soon as well.
1) the header tank is in- and if you need an inexpensive tool for installing Rivnuts, McMaster-Carr has them. The tank now interferes with the rear bodywork, which will now not come down and seat as it ought to- the tank is in the way. We'll modify the rear bodywork on the inside a bit to clear it.
2) we have all the items needed to complete the cooling system, except that the gooseneck (thermostat housing) isn't machined for a thermostat and the bypass has to be drilled out. So it's down the street at Metalcrafts getting all that done. After that we can make a gasket to fit it and install all that. I have decided to use a 165 degree thermostat to start with. All the rest of the hoses are here and seem to fit, and also a nice aluminum overflow tank from Jegs. The only question is going to be where to mount it. We're running out of space on the rear bulkhead, I'm afraid, and it needs to go somewhere. Haven't figured that one out yet. So when I get the gooseneck back, we'll try to fit all that together.
3) It seems appropriate, somehow, that the first of the three footpedals to actually DO something is the accelerator. Today I drilled out the throttle cable bracket, which is a nice black CNC-cut aluminum item I got from Jegs, mounted the throttle cable, and found that there is too much angulation between the cable clevis and the throttle control arm on the Holley carburetor. Instead of reengineering everything, I just bought a stainless 10-24 capscrew and nuts and used that to mount to the clevis. The pedal effort is a bit high, but it seems to return okay, with the two big springs on it, and it may become easier to push down as it wears in. ( I am deluding myself- this car is still months away from being driven. Perhaps I can hire someone to just sit in the seat for a few hours a day and push the throttle pedal down a few hundred times.) We could bleed and try out the brakes, but it's kind of early for that. And besides, the reservoirs are just held in by tie-wraps right now. They need proper hose clamps. So no point in filling anything until that is squared away.
4) an adaptor was made up by MC to permit me to connect a hose to the radiator upper air bleed fitting. That is also part of the plumbing we need to make up to get everything to work together and hopefully not leak.
5) I have located a paint shop near the assembly and trim shops which does beautiful work and would like to paint the car. We will do the fitting, primer and all the interior black paint, and they will spray the finish coats. Hopefully that will be soon as well.
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
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Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Progress made, again: today we got all the coolant lines in and snugged up- and I learned how to install swivel-end fittings on SS braid Russell hose, a skill which will undoubtedly serve me well in the emergency room . We still have to figure out where the overflow tank is going to go, but before we do that we are going to figure out how the fans are going to be mounted, and install them, and also the ignition coil, the fuel pumps (sadly they are Facet, not SW), the fuel filter/pressure regulator...what else? I am sure I missed something. The front engine bulkhead of a GT40 is a crowded place to say the least. Once the fans etc are all in, we can begin work again on all the fiberglass pieces and also start the windshield wiper assembly and the windshield washer as well.
I forgot how much fun it is to work on a car, especially a clean one where you arent' having to remove a lot of grime etc just to get to what you need to service- which is frozen in place by rust. Because all these parts are new, they either fit or they don't fit, but at least they aren't frozen.
We also have a battery on the way- an Odyssey 1230. For those of you who have never used Odyssey batteries, they are well worth looking at: they are very durable, they provide amazing power all out of proportion to their size, and they are warranted for four years without adjustment- in other words, if one fails on the last day of the four years, there is no pro-rata adjustment- you get a new one free. I have them in the house bank of my boat, and in my Kirkham Cobra. It is amazing how fast the little square Odyssey will spin the 302 in the Kirkham. The battery going in 1140 is larger, mostly to take up the space in the battery box and not move around. We think this will work out nicely. There aren't a lot of electrical loads in a GT40- pumps, fans, engine, lights is all I can think of- so there ought to be plenty of juice in reserve.
I did get some photos today, which I'll post over the next few days as I get caught up.
. We still have to figure out where the overflow tank is going to go, but before we do that we are going to figure out how the fans are going to be mounted, and install them, and also the ignition coil, the fuel pumps (sadly they are Facet, not SW), the fuel filter/pressure regulator...what else? I am sure I missed something. The front engine bulkhead of a GT40 is a crowded place to say the least. Once the fans etc are all in, we can begin work again on all the fiberglass pieces and also start the windshield wiper assembly and the windshield washer as well. I forgot how much fun it is to work on a car, especially a clean one where you arent' having to remove a lot of grime etc just to get to what you need to service- which is frozen in place by rust. Because all these parts are new, they either fit or they don't fit, but at least they aren't frozen.
We also have a battery on the way- an Odyssey 1230. For those of you who have never used Odyssey batteries, they are well worth looking at: they are very durable, they provide amazing power all out of proportion to their size, and they are warranted for four years without adjustment- in other words, if one fails on the last day of the four years, there is no pro-rata adjustment- you get a new one free. I have them in the house bank of my boat, and in my Kirkham Cobra. It is amazing how fast the little square Odyssey will spin the 302 in the Kirkham. The battery going in 1140 is larger, mostly to take up the space in the battery box and not move around. We think this will work out nicely. There aren't a lot of electrical loads in a GT40- pumps, fans, engine, lights is all I can think of- so there ought to be plenty of juice in reserve.
I did get some photos today, which I'll post over the next few days as I get caught up.
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
Jim I use the Aussie Odyssey battery in a couple other cars I have, the are great and will last for years. Even the Harley Davidson style batteries will crank a big block for a short period.
Jim,
Your build log is inspiring and fascinating reading. Thanks for the effort of recording all your adventures.
My favourite part is your quote about the kit car question, "hell, no, it isn't. A kit comes with all the parts and instructions." Priceless.
Dalton
Your build log is inspiring and fascinating reading. Thanks for the effort of recording all your adventures.
My favourite part is your quote about the kit car question, "hell, no, it isn't. A kit comes with all the parts and instructions." Priceless.
Dalton
Jim Rosenthal
Supporter
Yes, well that's exactly how it is...I forgot to mention that I shipped the old exhaust system off to Stainless Headers in MN today- that's the outfit that made some SS coolant pipes up for Howard Jones. They are going to duplicate the entire system from scratch. My old system worked until I stupidly tried to have the pipes electropolished and damaged them. The old system will be for sale when we are done with it- it came off a Safir car with a Mathwall engine. Two of the eight pipes are fine, and the collector/muffler units are fine. I will post photos etc of the system from the Minnesota company when it is done, barring unforeseen problems. They will also have patterns and jogs with which to make a GT40 system for a 289 or 302 engine with standard heads. I'll let you all know how that goes, but of the companies that I spoke with about remaking the exhaust system, they were the most responsive and seemed the most interested.