4 bbl Carb for Lola Motor

Ron Earp

Admin
Stan Justus from Stallion Racing Components is doing a carb for the Lola Spider. He builds carbs for various racing applications, preparing both Holley and Demon carbs for whatever you might have in mind. He's building this carb based on the specifications of the motor that I provided him. He's given me permission to post the email and I thought I'd pass along this email from him.



Stan is a member here, and at Club Cobra, and is well-respected in race circles for his work. Seems to be very helpful on discussion of carbs, that is certain.



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Hi Ron,

The following photos should give you an idea of where I’m at with your carb so far. The first pics are of the raw main body and metering block castings before any work. I very rarely buy complete carburetors to fill orders, preferring to start with un-machined castings which allow me to hold much tighter tolerances and also optimize many aspects of the finished carburetor (venturi minor diameter and entry radius, main circuit discharge nozzle size, shape, and position, etc.) to the customer’s exact requirements…or what his class rules require…or (ah hem) what the tech inspectors don’t know to look for. In your case, I started with the 1.375” venturi/1.687” throttle bore main body that is used on the Holley 750 HP Series four barrel carb, and raw Holley HP series metering block castings.


carb1.jpg



carb2.jpg



At this point, some machining has already been done to the blocks as I forgot to make sure that the memory card was in the camera the morning of the day I started on them.


The next pic doesn’t show a carburetor part at all, but is a photo of the fixture I use for the first machining operation on the main body. This is significant because it allows me to reference all machining operations from the true venturi X, Y, Z centerlines. Holley doesn’t concern themselves with this at all when machining these pieces; if the surface ends up “flat” and within oh… .050” and +/- 3 degrees of where the original engineering data calls for it to be, they assemble and ship it. That’s probably ok for someone’s street-stock oval tracker or 13-second bracket car, but falls well short of what our professional customers demand. Also, “squaring” the carb body properly means that I can put the part back on the same fixture later and make changes to the venture shape as small as .0005” without having to worry about tangency. This is a big deal if you are already “on” the maximum venturi diameter for a given class.

carb3.jpg




The main body mounts on the fixture like this.


carb4.jpg

The first cut is to the bottom surface to establish its distance from the vena cava (venturi choke point), and to drill the dowel holes that will be used to position the part on subsequent fixtures.

carb5.jpg


carb6.jpg



Next, the main body goes onto a fixture mounted on our 4th axis drive, which rotates to allow us to machine the sides and to drill and tap the various fuel and air passages for screw-in restrictions. These allow for easy tuning of the carburetor’s fuel response curve later. I also true the air-cleaner mounting surface, and radius the normally sharp and rough edges of the casting (carburetors should not draw blood when you touch them).

carb7.jpg


carb8.jpg



Next, the venturii are machined to the size and shape that matches the customer’s airflow/throttle response needs. This is done with a single-point tool, and the programs are quite long…the one written for your carb is 42,371 lines long. Thankfully, we have software that “reads” my 3-D drawings and writes the toolpath code for me…takes about a minute. I’ll see if I can copy some screen-shots of the actual process later.

carb10.jpg




The next pictures show the metering blocks being machined. The first operation (cutting the exterior profile) is mostly for appearance, but also gives me a consistent surface to work from, which everything that follows easier. Here, you see one of the idle circuits being profiled.


carb11.jpg



Here is the finish-machined metering block. Note that pretty much every metering orifice uses easily changeable screw-in restrictors. Our “baseline” calibrations are usually pretty close to optimum – provided the engine and application info supplied by the customer was accurate to begin with – but there are usually a few more lbs./ft. of torque to be had with some dyno-guided fine tuning. I’ll send “tuning supplies” along with your carb.

carb12.jpg



BTW – all of the zinc parts (carb main body, boosters, metering blocks, float bowls, etc.) will be dichromate plated for corrosion resistance once all of the machining and blending operations are done. This is basically the same process that Holley uses and results in the same gold/brown/greenish color, although we use a lot more chromium in our solutions so the surface is much more durable.

Machining/prepping the throttle shafts, butterflies, and baseplate itself will be next; I’ll send you some pictures of those operations as well…probably late next week. As for posting these pictures out on the site, feel free to do so if you think that the membership would like to see them.

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I didn't know this much went into preparation for carb, pretty amazing. In the past I've used whatever carb I could get locally from a parts house, or minor race shop, which is basically stock for the most part. I thought maybe folks would like to have a look and I'll post the others if people are interested. I'm really excited to have Stan do the carb for me and looking forward to firing it up!

Best,
Ron
 

HILLY

Supporter
Thanks for the post Ron.
I really enjoy the passion and professionalism of guys like Stan.
Be sure to post the follow up info as it arrives.

 

Keith

Moderator
If I ever get involved with Holleys again (and why not - it's a great carb out of the box) I'm certainly getting in touch with this guy. I fiddled with the things for years and never knew there was so much left to improve.

Good info Ron, thanks...:)
 
Nice picture and excellent work..

I hope with all the effort it is placed on a flow bench and you can let us know what the numbers are ??

I'm partial to EFI such as it is, which also has some flow bench stuff to it..
 
Ron,

possibly a dodgy question, and one you might want to respond to in private.
Could you give me an indication of cost when compared to buying an off the shelf Holley please.

Cheers,
John.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Hi John,

No worries on the cost or questions - that is what the forum is for. Don't you hate when you see "PM sent" and you miss out on the info?

I didn't look at an off the shelf Holley, but instead "prepped" Demons and Holley's. These were going to be in the $500-$800 range pretty easily, although off the shelf these would be in the $400 range. Stan's carb will be a little bit more than the prepped ones, around 10%-20% over that range depending on what you want (I have not got the final price since it isn't done yet). Check with him, I'm going on discussion costs and it might be lower or higher.

However, a couple of guys that have used him said the thing was right on the money when delivered - that is worth a lot to me and probably most people. I'll give a full report when we run it, no matter the outcome.

I bet if a couple of folks from the forum got together and contacted him you might could work out a group deal, especially from the UK I bet he'd like some business (I don't know this, I'm just suggesting - internet group buys are a nice bonus of forums and bringing people together).

His contact email is [email protected]

When Stan sends some flow numbers I'll post those too. He knows what he is doing I think and I liked communications with him that read on forums, and via PM with him, much better than the other two builders I'd tried before. I also tried a local guy, but just didn't like his approach.

R
 
Thanks for the post Ron

Right on the mixture.. well, please do get a 02 sensor or EGT exhaust gas temp sensor and adjust for best mixture maybe a bit rich on your engine.
This is the drag about carbs and tuning for races and best performance there is no manual mixture adjustment it is fixed for the automotive stuff.

heck get Stan to place a main mixture control on the carb that can be adjusted from the drivers seat, you sell a few of these without doubt.

The chemically optimal point at which this happens is the stoichiometric ratio (sometimes referred to as stoich), where all the fuel and all the oxygen content in the air of the combustion chamber will perfectly balance each other out during combustion.

This is what is good about EFI and digital controls you can tweak the mixture if you have the controls

On my aircraft I adjust lean to get max exhaust temp then go a bit rich on the stoich side. Best power and runs cooler then lean. This is at cruise.

Flow vs Delta Pressure across the throttle plate at % throttle open, say 10, 25, 50, 75, 100 % would be good for a chart. If you could get 02 or exhaust temp this would tell us how linear the mixture is or what the curve is on a dyno so we could add engine load.

best
here is a link that maybe useful
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio
 
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Ron Earp

Admin
Hi Capaci,

I run EGTs in all our race cars, as well as a wide bands on my boosted street cars to make sure I'm safe, or agressive, on A/F depending on what I need on a given day. Only reason I want to run the carb on the Lola is plain old simple simplicty. Four barrel carbs work well, don't cost a fortune, and they are easy to tune. Natually I'll run the thing in on a dyno with EGTs to make sure it's all tuned in well. If we really get out on a limb, I can use with real time track conditions to re-jet when needed - but this is just a street and track car so over kill there.

I tune EFI cars too, do my Lightning all the time. Even the cheapie modifiers allow you a lot of control over timing, fuel in ranges, and many other parameters. Other complete systems I've been able to use like Motec, Wolf, and Megasquirt are really nice giving you full control. Looking forward to doing a Megasquirt on the TR8 we race next year when we go injected.

I fly as well, and use the EGT when operable, or my ear to lean for cruise when they are not operable, which I think is most of the time lately. Not exact, but it'll save a little per hour and keep the engine happy. There are some street car carbs with real-time adjustable mixtures, that is, they have leads fitted to fiddle with them as you go. Don't think I'll go that route though, just not needed.

R
 
all righty

Good so lets see the numbers on the super carb and what it does and why it worth all the effort. This will be a great selling point.

CNC carb body cannot be all bad, what the heck, I hope It out preforms the OTS stuff. maybe..

GM did the adjust as you go qjet, it sucked. garbage bigtime for emission. There effort at EFI early was not that much better.

NASCAR would have adjustable mixture carbs if they could, most every other race car now does if they run EFI

This is why I'm going with the turbo 2.23L audi, can make tons of HP with boost and fuel from the 2.23L powerplant. should be fun. Bolts right up the the audi 016 transaxle also.. LOL

it will be nice to see what lola does, best wishes.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
capaci said:
all righty

Good so lets see the numbers on the super carb and what it does and why it worth all the effort. This will be a great selling point.

Sorry, hope I didn't come off as snippy in my reply - seems I've been good at that lately. Different strokes for different strokes. I don't think we'll have a "super carb" or anything like that, just a good running 4bbl. I like fuel injection too, but I just wish to have this car in a very simple configuration - few electrics, and most everything mechanical, down to the fuel pump.

I think the Audi turbo motors are fantastic. The late model 5 valve motors do real well, as did the eariler engines. They'll be light, run well, and make plenty of power. Those would be fantastic engines in just about any do it yourself car - from a Lo Cost to a GT40. I think they will be a good choice. Another good one would be the nice V6 turbo diesel sold in the European Passats/A4/A6 cars, that'd be a lot of fun in a 2000lb sports car.

R
 
Ron

Not snippy at all.. The carb is a super looking piece, no issue. The fuel metering should be excellent. I'm quite serious about the fuel mixture lever, This would make a super carb no doubt about it.

EFI and turbo diesel is like beer and tits it is all good. This maybe way to much torque and will need lots of gearing to make speed, It will likely pull your race trailer no issue.

I have good running 4 barrels on my boat qjet 800cfm with rich mix at WOT,, does great on a 406 SBC. The aircraft is more for range then money if you do have to land, like in a jungle and over water.

We shall see what the 2.23L audi does with the turbo and Ke Jetronic, it has won some races no question about it.

America V8s I have had enough of it, the new Ford GT is not bad however, EFI from who,,, FOMOCO ??? I have no idea!

best

Keep us posted on the effort!
 
Ok, the carburetor for Ron’s Lola is finally finished and on it’s way to him. We normally fill orders within a couple of weeks depending on workload, but in this case Ron was gracious enough to let me bring this one along in my spare time, which worked out well for everyone involved. Here are a few more pictures showing a bit more of the modifications we performed.

The next three pictures are of the throttle shafts, stainless steel throttle plates, and the completed baseplate assembly. The primary throttle shaft uses a custom linkage plate that allows for 3 different overall throttle actuation ratios as well as two different secondary throttle actuation ratios. These shafts have the linkage ends welded on rather than simply swedged, and are thinned and profiled to reduce restriction to airflow through the throttle bores. Finally, they are Teflon-coated for corrosion resistance and smooth operation. In this case, I left the shafts .015” thicker than I would for a Nextel Cup application, since having a throttle plate slip out of alignment and hanging the throttle open usually results in hitting something really hard…and well, we need Ron healthy. After all, someone has to run this site, right?







Next is a picture of the float that we modify for road-racing applications. Along with our power valve baffles, these floats help combat fuel starvation through and immediately up off the turns by reducing the effects of fuel slosh.



The spacer shown in the next picture isn’t the one that we’ll be building for Ron’s application (this one is actually for a smaller carb) but it does show the general design and gives you an idea of our design and machining capabilities.



Finally; the finished carburetor. Take note that Ronnie Ongais…er, Ron Earp…has elected to use 1 to 1 primary-to-secondary opening on this beast, and is therefore certainly entitled to some additional respect around here owing to the fact that he obviously must have a pair of great big pair of brass ones.



This is a shot of the bare baseplate after finish machining but before assembly. Note the horizontal grooves passing through the transfer slots and curb idle fuel discharge holes. These work by way of capillary action to distribute idle and trasition fuel over a much wider area of the throttle bore, greatly aiding atomization and allowing us to run far less fuel through those circuits than would otherwise be necessary, contributing to better throttle response, power, fuel mileage, and even engine durability by way of a reduction in cylinder wall wetting.
 

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Ron Earp

Admin
Hey Stan,

Thanks much for build the carb for us, I think it'll be a very nice piece. Having a carb built by a Nextel Cup carb builder is quite cool and maybe it'll get a couple of my NASCAR friends who won't touch anything but a beer help and pickup a wrench instead. Or on the other hand, maybe not.

I'll get some pictures of it this weekend on the motor with the rear deck in place to get an idea of how we sit. I'm still not sure the 1:1 linkage is the way to go, but if we can get some progression built into the throttle linkage we should be okay, or, we'll swap back if it is too hairy!

Ron
 
Ron Earp said:
maybe it'll get a couple of my NASCAR friends who won't touch anything but a beer help and pickup a wrench instead. Or on the other hand, maybe not.


Hey! I know those guys! Actually...come to think of it...I probably hired those guys several years ago when we were still located in Charlotte.
 
That looks superb !!

Question for Stan:
the mods to the float bowls - is this akin to using the LeMans bowls, or is it superior to using those ?

Cheers,
John.
 
For a 4bl.... not bad!
:lol:

Looks OUTSTANDING!! Fantastic work Stan! It might make you think twice about Webers...unless.... Hey Stan, ever play with "the 2bl"?????

If so we could admire your work 4 times more per car!!!!
 
John W said:
That looks superb !!

Question for Stan:
the mods to the float bowls - is this akin to using the LeMans bowls, or is it superior to using those ?

Cheers,
John.

I believe that our components offer a better solution to the problem of fuel slosh -- the main reason being that Holley’s “Le Mans” bowl design required a fairly drastic change in float pivot geometry which resulted in the float having significantly less mechanical leverage with which to exert control over incoming fuel pressure. This is in-fact the reason why Holley found it necessary to reduce the orifice size in the needle & seats sold in the kits from .110” to .097”. Otherwise, a reduction in fuel supply pressure would have been required, and that would have caused many more problems than it solved owing to inertia and vehicle dynamics. Back then however, reducing the inlet orifice size wasn’t a real problem, as a pair of .097”s at 40% drop and 8.5 psi would still allow enough fuel into the carb to support approximately 620 horsepower.

Today…well, actually a couple of years ago before the Trans-Am series went belly up due to SCCA losing all control over the cost of being competitive…Lozano Brothers’ 305 cu in small block Fords with one of our carbs very similar to the one you see here in this thread would routinely make a very drivable 775 - 780 horsepower at the flywheel. Trying to use the Le Mans style bowls in that application would have meant an engine failure DNF every time out due to fuel starvation.
 
Stan,

thanks for the comprehensive reply.
I guess my side oiler will be fine with LeMans bowls then, given it won't make that much power.

Cheers,
John.
 
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