Aligning the beast? Also, Ride Height question...

[Eric McClellan]

Hey all,

I've searched a few times through here and google and was hoping to get some ideas on how to do a proper alignment. I'm debating whether I should take it to a shop and have them do it or if I can do it in my garage with some accuracy.

If I'm going to spend $200 on an alignment (guy claims $80, but I don't think he knows what he's getting into) I might as well buy the tools to do it myself.

Are the specs the same for front and rear?

Mine will be a 50/50 track/street car. Thinking -1.5* camber, +4 Caster and 1/8th toe will be a good starting point.

Finally, the rear ride height... I know there are the turn buckles that help with ride height, where's a good starting point for those? Right now they are completely turned all the way in (shortest length).

Thanks.

 

[Howard Jones]

What kind of tires are you going to use and how long do you what them to last. -1.5 * camber on the road will cut the tire life quite a bit. However that is going to be my baseline camber setting on Hoosiers for my car. Your toe (1/16 per side, right?) and caster (+4-6 is about right) settings will work.

Ride height. Street cars like my GT40 just are too low below about 3.75 at the front. Unless you REALLY are careful, lower than that and you WILL F.U. the nose of the car. I am going to baseline my SLC (track only) at 3.5F and 4R. As I get familiar with the car I will try it lower just to see how it works. The main thing is the rear is higher that the front by at least a 1/2 inch. DO NOT RUN IT NOSE UP.........ANY!!!!

I like to pick a spot on the chassis that corresponds to the end of the car that you are setting like the chassis rail point a suspension pickup point is attached to and measure to the ground from there. On the SLC I used the front lower corner of the foot box on each side and at the rear the rear lower A Arm rod end bracket. Measure from the bottom of the rear "ear" U bracket to the ground for the rear ride height for example. Use the same spots from now on.

All the above is really a informed (by a huge guess based on reading everything I could find on the subject) judgment call.

The best book on the subject of do it yourself alignment I have is, How to make your car handle by Fred Puhn

How to Make your Car Handle HP46 by Fred Puhn | Barnes & Noble

If you do go to a alignment shop check chassis to alignment rack clearance before you go to the trouble of making an appointment. There are very few racks these cars will clear. Do it yourself! It's fun and you will really learn a lot, especially how much a change you get with one turn of the rod end. After that you can make changes without checking the actual setting.

 

[Stu Coleman]

G'day Eric

I've attached my alignment info. I had a specialist perform mine so can't give you any 'how to' advice.

 

[P Roth]

This is probably too much Camber..........

 

[PeteB]

Here's an earlier thread on the subject: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/42421-wheel-camber-settings.html

 

[Cliff Beer]

Eric, my experience is limited to some exotic cars (including GT40) but no direct experience with an SLC....so take this for what it's worth.

In short, my experience has been that a home garage alignment is likely not to come close to the precision allowed with a proper/full rack no matter how careful and precise the measuring is. The dynamic rolling type rack is even more precise. I've noticed that very small changes in camber and caster and toe can be felt quite dramatically on the road....so the investment in time in first identifying good starting settings and then precisely dialing it in consistently across the front/rear and left/right with professional level skills and resources makes a big difference in the performance and enjoyment of the car.

I'm lucky, there's a couple excellent race shops in my area who will do a dynamic four wheel alignment to whatever specs you provide....and then tweak it free of charge once (or twice) after the first alignment....all for less than $500 bucks and it makes the car a joy to drive.

Again, this has just been my experience and I know nothing about SLC-specific practice.

 

[Eric McClellan]

Thanks everyone.

I got it close last night with an angle finder, angle iron and some long rulers.

It's close enough for the time being and should at least give me plenty to work with until I can get it to the alignment shop.

 

[Bill]

I used the alignment specs in the build manual, except the ride height. I have a street car so raised the ride height a little. My SLC clears all but the tallest speed bumps and curbs without pumping up the front lifts. The stance still looks good as well.

My ride height:

• Front: 4 3/4"
• Rear 5 1/4"

All you really need to do an alignment is:

• Some string
• Tape measure
• Digital level
• 2 straight edges (wood or angle irons)

See Post 434 in my Rumbles build thread for how I do the -> 4 wheel alignment

I get very consistent results with this method. I used to go to the alignment shop after I did my own, but the alignment shop would always show I was within spec.