Distributor drive gear on a Windsor engine
- Thread starter glayne
- Start date
some have more than others,,Shell Rotella has a good bit in both the synthetic and regular. mobile I for motor cycles has a lot as does Royal Purple
Oils: What oil do I use in my aircooled Porsche or VW?
Oils: What oil do I use in my aircooled Porsche or VW?
granted ,different oils are not a substitute for the proper combo,however, I would think that an oil that is designed for high pressure situations( flat tappet cam ect..) would have more protection for the dist gear than non high zinc oils would. Also a thinner free flowing synthetic would take some pressure off the gear I would surmise.
This is the thread that might discuss some of that -
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...ynthetic-sin-thetic.html?highlight=sin-thetic
BTW, I got a couple of cases of Mobil 1 Delvac Synthetic 5w-40 as it has a very high amount of the additives (Zinc/Phosphorus) in line with more of the hopped up racing oil additive packages. I have not changed it out from Royal Purple Racing 41, but last time the disto came out gear looked good. The link to LN enginerring has a ton of good info on oils and what's in them. check the above link too.
Sandy
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...ynthetic-sin-thetic.html?highlight=sin-thetic
BTW, I got a couple of cases of Mobil 1 Delvac Synthetic 5w-40 as it has a very high amount of the additives (Zinc/Phosphorus) in line with more of the hopped up racing oil additive packages. I have not changed it out from Royal Purple Racing 41, but last time the disto came out gear looked good. The link to LN enginerring has a ton of good info on oils and what's in them. check the above link too.
Sandy
Glayne,
Before everyone gets off on an oil industry witch hunt here, lets recap.
1. Have found that your gear height may have been incorrect & possibly binding up.
2.Had a bronze gear in what appears to be the wrong application.
3.Hi Volume oil pump.
Now you are looking at the oil, but have not stated type or rating.
Apart from the three likely culprits above, one thing that causes high gear loads/ wear is quick rpm increase's when cold or at startup, particularly with Hi Vo pumps and even more so with light flywheels etc. I also hope you noted the reference in the piece by 'Coupe 3w' to checking that your oil pump drive is not too long. Sounds like you have got most of the bronze, I would suggest the next oil change also include the filter & cut open the old one to inspect.
cheers
Jac Mac
Before everyone gets off on an oil industry witch hunt here, lets recap.
1. Have found that your gear height may have been incorrect & possibly binding up.
2.Had a bronze gear in what appears to be the wrong application.
3.Hi Volume oil pump.
Now you are looking at the oil, but have not stated type or rating.
Apart from the three likely culprits above, one thing that causes high gear loads/ wear is quick rpm increase's when cold or at startup, particularly with Hi Vo pumps and even more so with light flywheels etc. I also hope you noted the reference in the piece by 'Coupe 3w' to checking that your oil pump drive is not too long. Sounds like you have got most of the bronze, I would suggest the next oil change also include the filter & cut open the old one to inspect.
cheers
Jac Mac
coupe3w said:
Hey Jim, I had exact same problem on a SBC with a Mallory Unilite Dist. Every run the dizzy would turn despite the clamp and put the timing way out. We just got used to retiming the darned thing and never knew what might have caused it....just thought it was a crap distributor
Had bronze gears on a Comp Cam roller and BBC (HV) pump AND an aluminum lighweight flywheel but no failures.
How strange coming up after 20 years!
a bronze gear is sacrificial by nature and will fail regardless of the all the other factors. To get the most miles out of one ,changing a few things makes sense ie.. oil pump ,oil ,checking accuracy of installment. 2500-4000 miles is pushing one in any setting. Better to get a Ford motorsports hyd roller cam and matching steel gear like is used on production 5.0 motors
Keith,
On your chev dizzy the gear does not contact the block to control end float. This is controlled by shims & thrust washers on the bottom of the dizzy. For your dist to turn in service as mentioned it would be a case of too much material being removed from cyl heads/intake manifold and/or oil pump drive shaft too long or possibly not enough end clearance in the dist that when the alloy housing expands in use that all the end float is used up to cause a bind.
In the chev case the cam rotation tends to push the dizzy gear up toward the dizzy-- In the Ford the gear is pulled down into the block.( Normal rotation-both types)
Jac Mac
On your chev dizzy the gear does not contact the block to control end float. This is controlled by shims & thrust washers on the bottom of the dizzy. For your dist to turn in service as mentioned it would be a case of too much material being removed from cyl heads/intake manifold and/or oil pump drive shaft too long or possibly not enough end clearance in the dist that when the alloy housing expands in use that all the end float is used up to cause a bind.
In the chev case the cam rotation tends to push the dizzy gear up toward the dizzy-- In the Ford the gear is pulled down into the block.( Normal rotation-both types)
Jac Mac
