Fitting copper pipes together

[TrevS]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I think I'll have to stick with what I've got and hope it's strong enough. We did use plenty of solder and looking inside the pipe could see that it had filled around the seal really well and it feels very strong (famous last words).

As for lagging the pipes I've bought some Duck pipe wrap. It's a self adhesive insulation tape that has a flexible outer aluminium shell and foam backing. It's supposed to resists temperatures from -30oF to +225oF.

The plan at the moment is to wrap each pipe in the tape once in situ and then see how much space I have left. If there is any more room I will try and add extra insulation.

Also having AC fitted to the car, don't know how good these systems are in a GT40 but must be better than not having it.

Trev

 

[Ian Bissett]

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If it’s any consolation, I too used standard leaded solder for my joins and made sure I overdosed with solder during the process. Someone I know who has also built a TS also did the same and he has had no problems. I believe the manual also recommends putting in some ‘Radweld’ or similar at the end of the build so any small leaks will be plugged anyway. For pipe insulation through the tunnel, I used the heat wrap from Car Builder Solution, wrapped twice around both pipes and then tie wrapped with stainless steel ties. If ever you need access to the pipes again (hopefully not), it’s easy to remove.<o></o>
Ian<o></o>

 

[Gregg]

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I believe the manual also recommends putting in some ‘Radweld’ or similar at the end of the build so any small leaks will be plugged anyway. <o></o>
Ian<o></o>

Tevor, you should be fine. I would not take the pipes apart. The amount of time and effort it would take to re-clean all the pipes where there is no residual solder from the initial work would probably do more harm than good. I wouldn't run any "Radweld" or similar product in my car. My two cents.

 

[Mike Pass]

I have a/c in my GTD and it is a big help on hot days even though a bit old now and not as good as the modern stuff. Car Builder Solutions do a reasonable unit which is also a heater and is quite small and easily mounted. About £500 for unit, trinary switch and condenserfrom memory.
I also use a "helicopter vent" in the drivers window which is very good as it can act as a vent or when rotated as a scoop. It pulls in a very nice flow of cooler air and sometimes means that the a/c is not needed. At Le Mans last year it was really hot and I had to turn off the a/c in towns as the motor was boiling up in the 40 deg heat and then the vent was a life saver. Check out the high tech wraps available from Demon Tweeks etc. as some of this modern stuff is amazing.
You can get the compressor and bracketry etc. for a SBF from Mick Sollis etc. Get to know your local a/c guy - he can help with advice crimping hoses etc.
Cheers
Mike

 

[David McGruer]

To insulate the water pipes and also prevent any viberation I would like to suggest that the pipes and the inside of the fiberglass cover are coated with vaseline. Drill 10mm holes in the top of the cover about every 250mm and fix everything in place then use expandig spray foam to fill the cover completly.The vaseline will stop the foam from sticking to the cover and pipes if they need to be repaird, modified etc. in the future.
When soldering copper, clean pipes and fittins is the key, rub with wire wool and you can get activated flux which is self cleaning,and should make it almost impossible for the joint to fail.