gt40 wanted, but which one
- Thread starter calmeeker
- Start date
Cal - you'll never get a straight answer because there isn't one. You first have to decide
on a few items, all related to - what do you mean by "best"?
Best turnkey car?
Best turnkey minus car?
Best spaceframe?
Best monocoque?
Best semi-mono?
Best road car?
Best race car?
Best kit?
Best for accuracy to the original?
Best for integrating new technology?
You'll find that one manufacturer can not meet the requisite "best" in all areas.
Ian
When you say you are looking for "the best", your question can't be answered. None of us can define your "best". I happen to think CAV, ERA, Tornado, Super Perf., MDA, New RF, RCR, DRB etc. all make fine cars. If you search this forum you will find that many of the people who have purchased any of these are still making modifications and improvements to make them "right" for their taste and situation. So spend some time looking and make your decision - any of these will get you a great 40 and they will all supply you with a product finished to the level you can afford. SPF is the only suppliier who will only supply you with a turn key minus. CAV is also a turn key minus supplier, in most places.
the real question to me would be "how important is originalty to you?" I can only speak of CAV or SPF as these are the two that I have and have never seen anything else. If being as close to original as possible is a strong point for you then SPF wins hands down in my opinion, there is nothing else close on the general market, but it comes with a price tag to match. As far as a quality car that drives well with an accurate body, the CAV fills that niche well , as do I am sure, ERA, RCR, Tornado ,GTD ect... All seem to need tweeking after you get them. The MONO frame on the SPF is a super nice piece and I find myself facinated by its construction, but I am not sure if its function is any better than my CAV.
Howard Jones
Supporter
Tell us what is YOUR top 10 most important points as related to owning a GT40.
So as to help I let you in on mine.
1. Buget
2. Must be appear to be a real GT40 as far as actual shape and dimention.
3. Same basic chassis configuation as the real car.
4. Performance, near equal performance as a real MK1 car. Power, ballance, and overall grip. More or less 5ish to 1 power to weight ratio, proper gearing, and good modern tires. 2500 lbs, 400hp at the crank, and 17in Z rated modern summer max performance tires will de it.
5. Self build kit. 5 is closely related to 1
6. Suport, help nearby from others with like manufacture or good remote suport via phone, email.
7. Gearbox acceptance, what types will the chassis in mind accept.
8. Body fit and gaps. This can be a very big deal for a guy who settes on a self build to perserve buget. Some of the new cars are near perfect in this reguard. Some of the older types can be up to 25% of the build effort in my opinion.
9. Ability to purchase less than a full package. Or better yet the ability to upgrade or delete systems, equipment. A good example of this would be brakes on a track only car.
10. Shipping costs if overseas and all that is related to a out of country suppler.
BIG NOTE: you need to learn about all the ins and outs of gearbox choice. The gearbox is the center of the entire project. It will determine many future choices for you. Better to spend more on the gearbox and less on the motor than via/v.
Put together a list of your own and go from there.
Buy the way, this part can really be fun. Kinda like sitting at the bar, looking them all over and picking one to dance. You have to decide what you want.
So as to help I let you in on mine.
1. Buget
2. Must be appear to be a real GT40 as far as actual shape and dimention.
3. Same basic chassis configuation as the real car.
4. Performance, near equal performance as a real MK1 car. Power, ballance, and overall grip. More or less 5ish to 1 power to weight ratio, proper gearing, and good modern tires. 2500 lbs, 400hp at the crank, and 17in Z rated modern summer max performance tires will de it.
5. Self build kit. 5 is closely related to 1
6. Suport, help nearby from others with like manufacture or good remote suport via phone, email.
7. Gearbox acceptance, what types will the chassis in mind accept.
8. Body fit and gaps. This can be a very big deal for a guy who settes on a self build to perserve buget. Some of the new cars are near perfect in this reguard. Some of the older types can be up to 25% of the build effort in my opinion.
9. Ability to purchase less than a full package. Or better yet the ability to upgrade or delete systems, equipment. A good example of this would be brakes on a track only car.
10. Shipping costs if overseas and all that is related to a out of country suppler.
BIG NOTE: you need to learn about all the ins and outs of gearbox choice. The gearbox is the center of the entire project. It will determine many future choices for you. Better to spend more on the gearbox and less on the motor than via/v.
Put together a list of your own and go from there.
Buy the way, this part can really be fun. Kinda like sitting at the bar, looking them all over and picking one to dance. You have to decide what you want.
Last edited:
Julian
Lifetime Supporter
Agreed, I sat in CAV recently and was impressed at how much more headroom it had than either my KVA or an SPF. If you are tall and track time with a helmet on is a consideration, there's a big plus on the CAV.
to all: thanks very much, your insight is very helpful. visited the SPF shop in tustin last week, inspected various mk 1 / 11, complete and chassis only, very impressed.
my criteria would be:
- fit and finish, we mfg components for helicopters, so pretty fussy about whats beneath the skin
- accuracy to original
- driveability, on the street, i like to drive, not much into building
- size not a concern, in fact at 5'5" i would have to bolster the seat to fit correct on the SPF
- MK1, just favor the look
- roush 427
thanks
cal
my criteria would be:
- fit and finish, we mfg components for helicopters, so pretty fussy about whats beneath the skin
- accuracy to original
- driveability, on the street, i like to drive, not much into building
- size not a concern, in fact at 5'5" i would have to bolster the seat to fit correct on the SPF
- MK1, just favor the look
- roush 427
thanks
cal
"I think I smell SPF !!" :lol:
he is not talking about an FE, a Roush 427 is a windsor. Not exactly a 302 like the original MK1 cars but a good choice for today non the less and they are small blocks.
Cal, the SPF is probably the one for you based upon your criteria above - originality and fit and finish are both very, very good. Other SPF related threads here seem to suggest you should go with a recommended SPF dealer rather than just the closest dealer to you due to the presence of some teething problems with newly delivered cars. For the heck of it it's worth checking out CAV since there is a dealer in San Deigo - go to VIP Classics downtown and ask for Roy Sayles. Roy will give you a nice introduction and probably a drive around.
If you're interested in what's under the skin then I'm sure you'll be favorably impressed with the SPF chassis - very accurate and well made. Personally, I love the CAV monocoque stainless steel chassis as it's very stiff, comes with beautiful welds and is, obviously, quite corrosion resistent (which is relevant here in the Northwest).
If you're interested in what's under the skin then I'm sure you'll be favorably impressed with the SPF chassis - very accurate and well made. Personally, I love the CAV monocoque stainless steel chassis as it's very stiff, comes with beautiful welds and is, obviously, quite corrosion resistent (which is relevant here in the Northwest).
I agree with the others - SPF seems to fit your wants/needs. And, by all means,
use a reputable dealer - Dennis Olthoff would be my recommendation.
But, as Cliff says, give Roy Sayles a call at VIP Classics downtown in the Gaslamp.
Just to get a look at what CAV has. They're not as close to the originals as SPF,
but the improvements over original are well worth it.
Ian
use a reputable dealer - Dennis Olthoff would be my recommendation.
But, as Cliff says, give Roy Sayles a call at VIP Classics downtown in the Gaslamp.
Just to get a look at what CAV has. They're not as close to the originals as SPF,
but the improvements over original are well worth it.
Ian
this is not easy! spent some time on the RCR site last night. being an "aluminum" guy, the rcr chassis look very good (cant understand why they are not anodized?). my guys could mfg anything on the car, so thats a plus if i need to scratch build anything.
with respect to accuracy, i should have said, accuracy to dimensional (body), not engine.
also, will pay the guys at VIP classics and have a close inspection on the CAV chassis.
thanks again for everyones help
cal
with respect to accuracy, i should have said, accuracy to dimensional (body), not engine.
also, will pay the guys at VIP classics and have a close inspection on the CAV chassis.
thanks again for everyones help
cal
Based on my experience if you wind up picking the SPF I’m with what Cliff had to say and pick a good dealer. If you want a complete car I would contact Dennis Olthoff. He used to be a Superformance dealer but he sold that part of the business. Find out from him who you should buy it through and have Dennis finish the car and have it delivered. He is the most knowledgeable person and has a great reputation.
Cal,
we dont anodise as some customers polish, some powdercoat and others leave raw....as all replicas are a personal reflection of their owners there is freedomn for expression.
If you are looking for accurate body shape then your search becomes even narrower.
RCR, ERA,SPF have the most authentic bodies...
Good luck with your search...and feel free to call with questions...
we dont anodise as some customers polish, some powdercoat and others leave raw....as all replicas are a personal reflection of their owners there is freedomn for expression.
If you are looking for accurate body shape then your search becomes even narrower.
RCR, ERA,SPF have the most authentic bodies...
Good luck with your search...and feel free to call with questions...
once again, thanks for all the advice!
- does anyone have a contact for mr olthoff?
fran, is there any RCR cars local to my area that can be inspected (san diego area). in the aviation business, we just ano everything. also while we are on the "aluminum" subject, why do most all mfgs use blind rivets on open structure, damn that bugs me!
- does anyone have a contact for mr olthoff?
fran, is there any RCR cars local to my area that can be inspected (san diego area). in the aviation business, we just ano everything. also while we are on the "aluminum" subject, why do most all mfgs use blind rivets on open structure, damn that bugs me!